Hastings House & Us

Daytrips Prague and the Czech Republic

Here's a sample chapter from our newest title, Daytrips Prague and the Czech Republic by Don Wilkinson. This chapter reveals all a visitor needs to know about the practicalities of traveling on your own in the Czech Republic:

Getting Around 

The Czech Republic has a large network of roads linking every little town, village, hamlet and farm community, no matter how small. There is also a large network of rail lines that also connect most of these small communities with the larger metropolitan areas. And that is where the problems of rail travel in the Czech Republic lies.

It seems that each and every community is connected to every other one and the trains are determined to stop at them all. Thus, a trip from one town to another that might take 30 minutes by car or bus can take two or even three times as long by train. It is only on the main lines between Prague and a few other major cities that rail travel is quicker and more convenient. For all other travel, take a bus, or better yet, rent a car and use it to randomly explore the country. You will see more and have more fun doing it. Besides, many of the castles and other sights are located away from the towns so a car is often the only way to get to them.

Once you are in the towns, park your car — you won’t need it again until you leave for the next town or castle. Walking is by far the best way to see these places, and almost all the sites in town are grouped within a few blocks around the historical main square.

Do not use taxi service within Prague. The taxis are usually privately owned and under regulated. A lot of the drivers do not know the city well and many have hidden buttons that can advance the pay rate unfairly. If you must use a taxi, arrange the fee before boarding and get it in writing.

Air Travel: 

Czechs do not travel by air within the country and very little within Europe itself, thus there are few International airports. 

There are as many as 40 International airlines flying into Prague presently with more being added all the time. Prague’s Ruzyné Airport is large, clean, newly rebuilt and expanded and very efficient, if any airport can be deemed efficient. The airport is located just 15 kilometers from the city center. Fast, cheap bus service will whisk arriving passengers to the end of the Metro line in less than 15 minutes where you can catch a subway train and be in the heart of the city within another five minutes. 

Rail Travel: 

There are four train stations in Prague, the main station is Hlavní Nádraží and is conveniently located near the center of the city. Holešovice, Smíchovské and Masarykovo Nádraží are scattered around the city but all are located on at least one of the Metro lines. If arriving in Prague by rail from almost anywhere inside or outside the country, take note of which station you will be arriving at. Often the station you leave from on a round-trip is not the one you will arrive back at, which can be confusing.

The CD or, České Dráhy is the government Rail Service, owned and operated by the State. There are four levels of rail travel: the EC which is an international express, the EX which is the national express service, the Osobní, which are very slow and stop at almost every station imaginable and finally, the Rychlík or express trains which run between the larger towns and cities without stopping at ALL the little towns. This is the train to look for if traveling by rail in the Czech Republic. 

There is a Travel Information Center located in each station in Prague and are extremely helpful to rail travelers. English is spoken and the personnel are more than willing to help you with train schedules and connections. You will need them! Use them! 

First Class tickets guarantee you a seat; otherwise it can be a mad scramble of pushing, swearing and shoving to reach the first available seats. On-the-spot fines are levied if you are caught in the wrong carriage but make sure the person demanding payment is an actual Rail employee. Look for their badge and photo I.D..

Bus Travel: 

The main bus station is located at Florenc on the Red Metro line. Buses bound for every town, city and village in the country as well as anywhere in Europe can be caught here. Ticket sellers do not speak English but there are English speaking personnel at the Information wickets. Bus travel in the Czech Republic is safe, fast, frequent, inexpensive and comfortable. For most routes, a roundtrip ticket can be purchased to save money; however, you do need to know when you wish to return as seats are sometimes reserved.

Buy your ticket inside the station where a seat will be assigned, otherwise if purchased at the gate, you may have to stand if the coach is full. There is no extra cost involved for reserving a seat.

By Car: 

Rental cars are available in Prague with most of the larger rental companies represented as well as a few local ones. The best place to rent is at Prague’s Ruzyné Airport. Arrange to pick up your car after you have finished exploring Prague. There is no need to have a car in the city, parking is almost non-existent and the drivers are just plain nuts. Wait until you are ready to explore the rest of the country, where at least a few drivers acknowledge the presence of traffic laws and speed limits.

Czech roads are almost without exception in very good shape, albeit narrower, hillier and much windier than North Americans are generally used to. Many of the roads are less then two lanes wide and few have shoulders. Luckily, few have ditches either and it is a simple matter to pull off into a field if necessary to avoid oncoming traffic. Stay on your own side at all times, even though most of the smaller roads do not have center lines.

There are only three divided superhighways in the country, the E50/D5, which runs from the German border in the west, through Prague and Brno and then exits as the E50/D2 southeast into Austria.

 The E55/D8 runs from Dresden in the north down to Prague, the E462/D1 runs within the country from Brno to Olomouc.

Seatbelts must be worn at all times and children are not allowed in the front seat if under 12. An International Driving license is not needed for North Americans or Europeans but is for Australians and New Zealanders. 

On the highways, the speed limit is 130 kph (80 mph), 90 kph (55 mph) on smaller roads and 50 kph (30mph) in towns and cities. Watch for roadblocks and check stops by the police. These are nothing to be concerned about and they will often just wave you through once they realize you are a tourist. If they do wish to inspect your vehicle, be polite and friendly. They will reciprocate. Do not drink and drive.

Metro/Tram Travel in Prague:

Travel within Prague has got to be the deal of the century. Not only is it fast, convenient and safe, but it is also extremely inexpensive.

Upon arrival and before leaving the airport or train station, search out a city travel booth and purchase a Metro Pass. These can be bought in single trip, 24 hour, 72 hour, weekly or monthly passes. A three- or seven-day pass is the cheapest and allows you unlimited access to all trams, subways and buses within the city, including the inclined railway up Petrin Hill. 

Frequent spot checks are performed by plain-clothes and uniformed police on subway cars or platforms and also on the trams and buses. Plain-clothes police will show you a badge before demanding to see your pass or ticket, and an on-the-spot fine will be levied if your ticket is invalid or expired. 

The first time you enter a Metro station or climb on board a bus or tram, look for a yellow box and stamp your ticket once. It is valid from that point forward. Do not re-stamp your ticket as this will invalidate it. 

                                

Beer, Food and (More) Beer In Czech: 

The Czechs are immensely proud of their beer, and justifiably so. With more than 300 brands of beer to choose from, they take their drinking seriously. Czech brewers brought the world Budweiser and Pilsner beers, which the American beer companies promptly stole, or at least the names, if not the taste.

The Czech Republic produces more than 18 million hectoliters (1,800,000,000 liters) of beer per year and exports just two million hectoliters. That leaves 16 million hectoliters to be consumed each year by a population of only 10 million people. And a lot of tourists. Yes! The Czechs know beer.

Czech cuisine is not on the level of their beer, however. About the only universally known Czech food is Goulash, and that they share with Hungary and a couple other Slavic countries.

Beef and pork is usually served very simply with boiled potatoes, dumplings or rice. Few spices are used and although good and filling, there isn’t much that is exciting. Breads of all sorts are a staple of the Czech diet. In restaurants it is usual to be brought a basket of breads without requesting it. If you don’t want it you may ask to have it taken away or simply ignore it. Either way, you shouldn’t be charged for it. Look for a charge for Brot if you happen to get an itemized bill.

When ordering a meal, be aware that other than the meat, everything else is ordered and charged individually, including potatoes, rice, salad and any other vegetables. The costs are very reasonable however and a good meal complete with soup, beer or wine can be had for a very small amount.

The viniculture industry in the Czech Republic is making great strides in producing some very good wines with the reds slightly edging out the whites in quality. While certainly not to the standards of French, German and other wines, they can still be very enjoyable and should not be lightly dismissed.

Restaurants, cafés and pubs do not expect you to simply finish your meal and then leave. It is common to sit around and talk, for hours if you wish, with no one minding. The bill will not be brought to you until requested and will generally be tallied at your table. Tipping is not expected but if you have a few coins returned after paying your bill, you may leave them if you wish but shouldn’t be more than one or two percentage points.

  

Practicalities:

I have included in each chapter, the addresses of the Tourist Information Centers of the towns visited. Almost without exception, each town has put their Info Center in the Main Square and erected a green “I” sign outside, so they are very easy to spot. Nearly every Daytrip listed begins in the Main Square.

When to Go: 

It is best to travel between mid-May and late October as far as weather is concerned, although Prague can become stifling in July and August and the hoards of tourists that flock to the city can get irritating. Try not to be in the city on a weekend as cheap flights and cheaper beer draw hundreds of drunks and hooligans from all over the U.K.

Holidays:

Few tourist sites are open on Mondays or the following  holidays. 

• New Years Day
• Easter Monday
• May Day-May 1
• Day of Liberation from Fascism - May 8
• Day of the Slavonic Missionaries, Methodious and Cyril - July 5
• Jan Hus Death - July 6
• Day of Czech Statehood - September 28
• Founding of the independent Czechoslovakia - October 28
• Day of Struggle for Freedom - November 17
• Christmas Holidays - December 24-26

Money Matters: 

Few, if any banks, stores or restaurants still honor Travelers Cheques, so don’t bother with them as the banks charge extra for cashing them in. ATM machines abound in the Czech Republic; you can find several in even the smallest town. You will get a better exchange rate using these than you would at a bank.

All major credit cards are acceptable in Prague, in most establishments. Look for the stickers of your particular card pasted on the door or window. Debit cards are not often accepted for food purchases in cafés, pubs or restaurants although they are accepted at service stations.

Telephones and Communications: 

Pay phones are available everywhere in Czech but due to the language barrier it can be difficult to converse over the phone with stores, restaurants and all but the largest hotels. Pre-paid phone cards are the simplest way to make international calls, although coin-operated phones are also prevalent. Internet cafés can be found in most towns and almost all Tourist Information Centers have either free or very cheap internet service.

Beware of using the internet at the Tourist Center in Karlovy Vary. The costs are extortionate.

Suggested Tours: 

Most of the walking tours in this book are relatively short and easy to follow. The tours for Prague generally start at a Metro or tram stop or are a continuation of the previous Daytrip. 

Daytrips in towns and cities outside of Prague usually begin in the Historic Town Square. Train and bus stations are not always close to the town centers so wherever this will be a problem, I have tried to offer alternatives.

Free maps of each town in the book are available in the local Tourist Info Center, usually located in the Main Square. For some reason however, Center personnel are strangely reluctant to display or hand out brochures of local attractions, so if you don’t know something is available it can be difficult to ask for it.

Although I spent several months exploring the Czech Republic, all of the tours in this book can be accomplished in three weeks or less of fairly leisurely travel, particularly if you choose to drive yourself. Remember, the country is only 300 miles long by 175 miles wide.

Most of the individual tours can be accomplished in a few hours of casual strolling, depending on how many and how long your side excursions and stops at each church, cathedral or museum is. Meals and pub stops can also encroach on your time, although they are encouraged throughout the book if for no other reason than to let you better take in a particular square or site.

As of this writing, opening times and admission prices are accurate but may change somewhat between writing and publishing. It is best to ask at the local Information Center before heading off somewhere too far.

              

                                       

Advance Planning Information:

Czech Tourist Authority               

95 Great Portland St, London, W1W 7NY, UK,  

Phone: 44 20 72 91 99 25

Email: ctainfo@czechcentre.org.uk

www.antor.com/Czech_Republic

Czech Tourist Authority

1109 Madison Avenue, New York, New York, 10028, USA

Phone: 1-212-288-0830

Email: travelczech@pop.net

www.czechcenter.com/travel.htm

Czech Tourist Authority

401 Bay Street, Suite 1510, Toronto, Ontario  M5H 2Y4, Canada

Phone: 1-416-363-9928

Email: ctacanada@iprimus.ca

www.czechcenter.com/travel.htm

Copyright © 2009 Don Wilkinson

ISBN: 978-0-8038-2074-6

$21.95

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Hampton Court, London

Here's an easy little one-day excursion just outside of London, taken directly from the pages of our popular guidebook Daytrips London.

Trip 10

London

Hampton Court

Henry VIII's great royal palace on the Thames is one of London's premier attractions. First built from 1515-22 for the ostentatious Cardinal Wolsey, it was confiscated in 1528 by Henry VIII upon Wolsey’s decline in power. The king spent ten years and ₤62,000 remodeling the building to suit royal occupation. Succeeding monarchs (and Oliver Cromwell!) enjoyed its luxury right down to the death of George II in 1760. Significant alterations made by the famed architect Sir Christopher Wren during the reign of William III added Baroque elements to the original Tudor structure. No longer used by royalty, the palace and its magnificent gardens were opened to the public in 1838 by Queen Victoria.

Like Versailles outside Paris, this royal complex easily takes the better part of a day to appreciate. Besides the enormous palace, there are all sorts of gardens to explore, a slightly unnerving 18th-century maze to get lost in, and several square miles of parks to enjoy. If that isn't enough, you can also stroll along the Thames past working locks, soaking up the village atmosphere and perhaps stopping at a waterside pub.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains to Hampton Court depart at half-hour intervals from London's Waterloo Station, with a journey time of about 30 minutes. Be sure to get a train to Hampton Court, not to Hampton. Return service operates until late evening. Schedules at W: SouthWestTrains.

Boats depart London's Westminster Pier, just opposite Parliament, several times in the morning for the 2.5-to-4-hour ride to Hampton Court. Return boats leave in the mid-to-late afternoon. This service operates from early April through September,  T: (020) 7930-2062 or W: ThamesRiverBoats for current details.

Those coming by car will find limited pay parking near the entrance to the palace grounds. From London take the M25 to Exit 12, then the A308 to Hampton Court.

PRACTICALITIES:

Hampton Court Palace is open late March to late October, daily 10-6, closing at 4:30 in winter. It is closed December 24-26. Admission: Adults £14, seniors and students £11.50, children under 16 £7. There are several places to eat there (see below) as well as gift shops. Both the palace and the grounds are generally handicap accessible, ask a guard if you need help. Battery-powered cars for use in the gardens are available free of charge. Try to avoid the weekend or holiday crowds, and remember that good weather will greatly enhance your visit. For further information contact the palace office directly, T: (844) 482-7777 or W: 

Historic Royal Palaces.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Landings Restaurant (Mitre Hotel, Hampton Court Bridge, just outside the main gate) Outdoor dining in a riverside garden. T: (020) 8979-9988. X: Sat. lunch. ££

Tiltyard Tea Room (near the maze in the gardens) Full meals, salad lunches, sandwiches, refreshments, and afternoon teas. £ and ££

Queen Elizabeth I's Privy Kitchen (in the palace) Light lunches, refreshments, and afternoon teas. £

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Hampton Court train station (1) is only yards from the River Thames. Stroll across the bridge to the Trophy Gates (2) on your right, built for William III as a grand entrance into the palace complex and later decorated by George II. Amble through them, purchase your ticket, and head straight across what's left of the moat. The stone bridge here was erected by Henry VIII, embellished with the “King's Beasts” stone carvings, and later buried by Charles II. Rediscovered in 1910, it once again gives proper access to the Great Gatehouse (3), one of the oldest parts of the palace.

Step through the doorway into the Base Court. Six different areas of the palace are open to visitors, each following a different route. Time and energy permitting, you should really see all six. Route 1 begins between the Base and Clock courts, leading upstairs to Henry VIII's *Tudor State Apartments (4). At the top is Henry's magnificent *Great Hall, originally a dining room for lesser courtiers. It is still hung with priceless 16th-century tapestries depicting the Story of Abraham. Look up at the 60-foot-high hammerbeam ceiling, every inch of which is enriched with gilded carvings, before continuing on to the Great Watching Chamber. The King's bodyguards once kept their watch here, surrounded by opulence. The route now enters the Haunted Gallery, where with luck you might encounter the ghost of Catherine Howard. Number five of Henry's six wives, she was beheaded for adultery in 1542, as was number two. Near the end is the elaborate Chapel Royal, much of which survives from the time when Henry and his wives, especially his wives, prayed there.

Route 2 begins in the Clock Court and takes you through the Queen's State Apartments (5). Again reached by an impressive staircase, this Baroque addition was designed for Queen Mary II by Sir Christopher Wren in the 1690s. Unfortunately, the queen died before they were finished, so the decorations are largely those of succeeding reigns. Among the highlights are the Audience Chamber with its canopied throne, the Drawing Room of Queen Anne, the Bedchamber with the original bed of George II's Queen Caroline, and the Queen's Gallery with its Brussels tapestries and lovely Delftware.

The Georgian Rooms (6), shown on Route 3, are entered from the Clock Court. This group of smaller rooms sheds some insight into the lives of George I and George II, the last monarchs to reside at Hampton Court. Near the beginning is “Wolsey's Closet,” a survival from Tudor times that was probably decorated by Henry VIII. After that there is the Communication Gallery, hung with the “Windsor Beauties” portraits of the ladies of Charles II's court. In the center of the suite is the famed Cartoon Gallery, built by Wren for William III around 1700. Original tapestry cartoons designed by Raphael in 1515 once hung on these walls, but they are now in the Victoria and Albert Museum. In their place are copies made here in the 18th century.

Route 4, reached from the Clock Court by yet another grandiose staircase, takes you through the King's Apartments (7). Built for William III between 1689 and 1700, these handsome chambers were devastated by fire as recently as 1986, but have now been restored to their original condition. The allegorical paintings decorating the stairs sing thinly-veiled praises to the king, and are set off by a magnificent wrought-iron balustrade. Pass through the Guard Chamber, whose paneled walls are enlivened with over 3,000 arms placed there in the 17th century by the king's gunsmith. The Presence Chamber still has its canopied throne, bowed to by courtiers even when unoccupied. Going through the Privy Chamber and the Withdrawing Room brings you to the elaborate Great Bedchamber, and the adjacent Little Bedchamber where the king actually slept. Downstairs, on the ground floor, are William III's private apartments, a cozy suite beautifully restored to its original condition.

Part of the original Tudor palace of the early 16th century, the Wolsey Rooms (8) shown on Route 5 feature the *Renaissance Picture Gallery of fine paintings on loan from Queen Elizabeth II.  Among its treasures is a painting of Henry VIII's meeting with King François I of France in 1520 and a delightful scene of The Four Evangelists Stoning the Pope — probably Henry's favorite work of art.

Cross the Clock Court to enter the *Tudor Kitchens (9) on the final Route 6. Laid out in preparation for a great feast, this is a real treat for anyone who loves food. Two hundred people labored here feeding the 800-odd members of Henry VIII's court. A recorded audio guide describing everything may be borrowed at the Information Center in Clock Court, making your visit all the more enjoyable. And, should you feel pangs of hunger yourself, there is a nearby Tudor-style snack bar.

Outdoors, the Privy Garden (10) was originally William III's private garden and was restored in 1995. Close to it is the Pond Garden (11) of Henry VIII, and the lavishly-decorated Banqueting House built in 1700 by Sir Christopher Wren as an intimate party place for William III. The Mantegna Gallery, housed in a former orangery, contains valuable paintings belonging to the present Queen. Planted nearby in 1768, the Great Vine (12) still produces grapes as it has for well over two centuries.

Behind the palace complex stretches Home Park, offering wonderful views of the buildings and the River Thames. It's a long walk to the end, but at least go as far as the nearby Fountain Garden (13) for the best perspective.

 

Stroll past the so-called Tudor Tennis Courts (14), where “real” tennis may be watched if it's open, through the Wilderness, and around to Queen Anne's Maze (15) of 1714. Deceptively simple but fiendishly conceived, this confusing route through the hedges traps most who enter. If every turn just brings you back to the same place (and it will!), you can always follow behind small children, who have an uncanny knack for finding their way out. Knights once jousted in Henry VIII's Tiltyard (16), but today it is home to a restaurant and cafeteria.

Northeast of the Palace Grounds is Bushy Park (17), designed by Wren as a grand approach to his planned north façade that never got built. Deer roam around this near-wilderness, and so can you.

Just across from the palace is Hampton Court Green (18), where Sir Christopher Wren lived in the Old Court House from 1706 until his death in 1723. Ambling around the green will reveal several other period houses.

Before heading back to London, you might want to wander along the south bank of the Thames to Molesey Lock (19) to watch pleasure boats working their way through. The river is no longer tidal at this point, and quite a bit narrower than it is downstream. There are several appealing riverside pubs in the area where you can relax before taking the train back.

Copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009

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Portmeirion, Wales

Here's a sample chapter from our guidebook Daytrips Scotland & Wales by Judith Frances Duddle, taking us to the site of that intriguing TV series of yeateryear, The Prisoner.

Trip 31

Portmeirion

A Daytrip from Shrewsbury or Aberystwyth

Just three miles South of Porthmadog is the spectacular Italianate village of Portmeirion, created by the architect Clough Williams-Ellis between the years 1926 and 1976. He had one purpose in mind, and that was to show how a naturally beautiful location could be developed without spoiling it. Clough died on the April 8, 1978.

Today, Portmeirion is owned by a registered charity, the Second Portmeirion Foundation. The grounds are designated as a Conservation Area and most buildings are listed Grade II. The village attracts over 240,000 visitors a year from all over the world; the admission charge levied at the tollgate contributes directly to the maintenance of the grounds and buildings.

During 1966-67, Portmeirion was used as the setting for one of UK’s and USA’s most famous television series, The Prisoner. Many daytrippers of a certain age will remember Patrick McGoohan, who played “Number Six” in the series – a retired secret service agent not allowed to roam free in the world with the knowledge in his head and so was sent to a top secret establishment for the rest of his life, known as The Village – a safe house, where Second World War spies “retired” until the war was over.

Within the village itself are many wonderful restaurants and shops to mooch around in. With Portmeirion being only 2 hours from either Shrewsbury or Aberystwyth, you can easily make a full day of it – but don’t forget your camera – this daytrip is a memorable one!

GETTING THERE:

Refer to the train information in the Porthmadog chapter (page 149). From the Australia Pub in Porthmadog catch the Bus Express 98 which leaves for Portmeirion at 10.10 a.m. and 2.10 p.m. The return bus departs Portmeirion at 12.06 p.m. and 4.30 p.m.

By Car from Shrewsbury follow the A5 and A487 roads to Portmeirion, 1.5 miles west of Penrhyndeudraeth, signposted at Minffordd. The total distance is 79 miles, with a journey time of 2 hours.

By Car from Aberystwyth, take the A487, A470, and again the A487 routes to Portmeirion, as above. The total distance is 57 miles, a journey time of about 1-1/2 hours.

PRACTICALITIES:

The Portmeirion Village can be contacted on T: (01766) 770-228, W: portmeirion.com. The nearest Tourist Information Centre is in Porthmadog on Stryd Fawr, T: (01766) 512-981, W: Gwynedd.gov.uk. 

A WARNING –Do not go onto the estuary without first checking the tide times. Also there are many steps and steep paths and the woods and beach are not accessible to wheelchairs.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Castell Deudraeth Bar & Grill (Portmeirion) Brasserie style menus based on fresh local produce including lobster, crab, and scallops from the Lyn Peninsula, rock oysters brought in daily from the shores of Anglesey, Welsh beef and lamb hill-farmed from the farms around Bala. ££

Cadwaladers Ice Cream Parlour (Portmeirion) Uses fresh local dairy produce create its traditional ice creams. Tea and coffee also served. Open March to November, 10-5.  (01766) 522-478. £

The Town Hall Restaurant (Grade II listed building in Portmeirion) Also known as Hercules Hall, it was designed to house a Jacobean ceiling, panelling, and mullioned windows salvaged from Emral in Flintshire. Self-service restaurant with seating both inside and outdoors. Offers a choice of hot and cold meals as well as snacks from 10-5. £ and ££

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Portmeirion has 45 points of interest and far too many to mention here. However, I will point out to you just some of the key buildings and areas that were used in The Prisoner episodes, so you can have your photograph taken in the very spot where 

Patrick McGoohan stood.

To help guide you around this vast village I would suggest accessing the Portmeirion website and print out the Guidebook, or alternatively you can buy the Guide Book from the Portmeirion Gift shop once there.

Portmeirion is a beautiful and unique attraction, one that should not be rushed. Even though the location sites from The Prisoner are highlighted as the tour in this chapter, be sure to visit every magnificent piece of architecture within the village.

Leave the car park to the Tollgate (1), where you will pay your admission charge (see details at the end of the tour text). Follow the map to the Battery Square (2). The surface is delightfully cobbled and surrounded by a pair of archway-linked 

buildings – The Round House (3) and Lady’s Lodge (4) will be easily recognisable to The Prisoner show fans as Number 6’s residence and the village store. The Round House is a Grade II listed building and is one of a pair of Baroque shops linked by an overhead walkway. In actual fact the house is too small to accommodate a spacious lounge, bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen as was seen in the series, so all the interior shots had to be filmed at the MGM Studios. The building now houses Number Six, the Prisoner Shop. The other Baroque shop – Lady Lodge, has a 

beautiful semi-circular mural above the bay window by Hans Feibush. Originally Lady Lodge was built as a lock-up garage, but was converted in the early 1960s into the Battery Stores and then The Peacock. Both signs are featured in The Prisoner. The shop is now called Siop Bach (little shop) and above it is the Lady Lodge Beauty Parlour.

Directly across the road from Lady Lodge, below the dome, is a pantiled loggia housing a gilt statue of Buddha, which Clough Williams-Ellis managed to salvage from the film set of the Inn of the Sixth Happiness, starring Ingrid Bergman.

Follow the map to The Gothic Pavilion (5), which was built to front the Gloriette beyond its pool and fountain. The lawn in front of the Gothic Pavilion is where the human chess game was played in The Prisoner through laying white squares on the grass.

Straight in front of you is the Piazza (6). This part of the Portmeirion Village was prominently used in the making of the series. You can easily see why – a beautiful fountain pool, surrounded by exotic plants and flowers, where you can sit and think and imagine that you too are part of that fabulous television series, set somewhere in a secret location, far, far away. Also a part of this masterpiece, two gilt Burmese dancers stand on Ionic columns, and just beyond, the majestic Gloriette. The “Dance of the Dead” episode was filmed at the Piazza.

The first episode of The Prisoner was titled “‘Arrival,” where the mysterious Rover Mark II made its debut at the top of the Gloriette (7). As you may remember, Rover was the 7-foot inflatable balloon that appeared from nowhere and chased McGoohan across Portmeirion’s beach. During the series over 5,000 balloons were used, mainly because they kept popping. To keep Rover from floating away the makers of the series had to fill the balloon with a mixture of helium and air for buoyancy and a pint or two of water to hold it down. In the episodes “The Chimes of Big Ben” and “Free for All,” Rover grew two “babies” – absolutely mind boggling, but anything was possible in this surreal TV show.

Follow the map to Salutation (8). This Grade II listed building, erected sometime between 1842 and 1858, is now the Salutation Restaurant and a shop specialising in Portmeirion Pottery. Clough’s daughter Susan and her husband Euan designed and painted the colourful mural of vines and cupids with fountain and white doves on the courtyard side of this building. Prisoner fans will recognise it as the café area used in the television series.

Stroll along to the Observatory Tower (9). This part of the beach was used in the film scenes for “The Queen’s Pawn (Checkmate)” and features the Tower/Camera Obscura in the rear shot. At the foot of the Observatory Tower is a Coade stone figure of Nelson, given to Clough by Sir Michael Duff from Caernarfon. Close by is a weeping beech tree given to Clough by his friends on his 80th Birthday.

The last visit of our Prisoner tour is to the White Horses (10) on the map. This 18th -century building was originally a fisherman’s cottage. White Horses is so called because with a spring tide and a south-westerly gale, crested breakers batter its walls and occasionally even break and enter. Clough for a short time used it as a workshop for weaving and dyeing until 1966 when he converted White Horses into habitable accommodation by adding two bedrooms raised on arches above the beach footpath. One of the first residents to stay at White Horses was Patrick McGoohan in 1966-67 while filming The Prisoner.

Open every day of the year from 9.30-5.30. Admission: Adult £5.30, seniors £4.20, children £2.60 (under 5 free), and family (2+2) £12.60. T: (01766) 770-000, W: portmeirion.com.

Text copyright © 2004 by Judith Frances Duddle.

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Daytrips Germany

The new Seventh Edition of our classic guidebook Daytrips Germany is now available and features 63 one day adventures by rail or car in Bavaria, the Rhineland, the East and the North. To celebrate, here's a sample chapter from what may now be Europe's most exciting city, Berlin!

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Daytrips Germany: 63 One Day Adventures by Rail or Car in Bavaria, the Rhineland, the East and the North

Trip 44

*Berlin Mitte

 Mitte is the historic center of Berlin, the meeting place of East and West, where much of the past survives amid rapid change as the former two Germanys meld into one.

Being divided in the aftermath of World War II was nothing new for Berlin, which began life in the late 12th century as two rival towns on opposite side of a narrow crossing point on the Spree River. Known as Berlin and Cölln, these were located in the very heart of what until 1990 was communist East Berlin.

By the 15th century Berlin-Cölln was the seat of the electors of Brandenburg-Prussia, and was made the capital of the newly-formed Kingdom of Prussia in 1701. In 1710 the two towns and their suburbs were finally completely merged into one city. This became the capital of the new German Empire (the Second Reich) pieced together by Bismarck in 1871, which lasted until 1918; then of the Weimar Republic frim 1919 until 1933; and finally of Hitler's Third Reich until 1945.

When Berlin was again divided after World War II, nearly all of its historic core and many of its most interesting areas fell within the sector allocated to Soviet domination. While the newly prosperous West replaced its bombed-out rubble with modern buildings, the poorer communist East had to make do by patching up many of its ruined structures, eventually restoring some. Thus the former East Berlin, isolated behind its infamous Wall, had actually preserved quite a bit of the Prussian past for visitors to experience today. Here you will still find traces of what Berlin must have been like in its heyday. Between these old survivors stand blocks of sterile Socialist Modern buildings from the 1960s and 70s, which were intended to be a showcase for the virtues of communism but wound up speaking volumes about the cold barrenness of its bureaucracy. Gradually, these are being replaced with more interesting — and humane — atructures.

Beginning at the historic Reichstag, this walking tour goes by way of the Brandenburg Gate and the renowned Unter den Linden boulevard, leading to a fine set of world-class museums on an island in the Spree. Two powerful emblems that promised a bright socialist Utopia, the frighteningly ordered Alexanderplatz and the landmark Television Tower, are followed by a visit to the oldest part of Berlin, the beautifully-restored Nikolaiviertel with its 13th-century church.  The walk ends at the elegant Gendarmenmarkt, near which are both U- and S-Bahn stations.

GETTING THERE:

Trains from major cities in Germany and other places throughout Europe arrive at Berlin's brand-new Hauptbahnhof station of 2006, just north of the Reichstag, the starting point of this walking tour. Day trains from Munich take about 7 hours, from Frankfurt about 4 hours, and from Hamburg about 2 hours.

By Car, Berlin is 580 km (363 miles) north (and slightly east) of Munich via the A-9 Autobahn. It is 535 km (334 miles) northeast of Frankfurt-am-Main by way of the A-5, A-4, and A-9 Autobahns. From Hamburg, take the A-24 Autobahn, a distance of 284 km (177 miles) to the southeast. Driving in Berlin is not especially difficult, but unless you're staying in the suburbs you really won't need a car once there.

Flying is the fastest way into Berlin from Munich or Frankfurt, but not from Hamburg. A variety of airlines offer flights from all major German cities, and many minor ones as well. They also provide direct service with other European cities, and connecting flights worldwide. Berlin has two airports: Tegel (TXL) in the northwest (not far from downtown) and Schönefeld (SXF) well to the southeast. Tegel is connected to downtown points by frequent and inexpensive buses, while Schönefeld is reached by S-Bahn commuter trains. Flights from major cities in western Europe and overseas tend to use Tegel, and those from the east use Schönefeld.

GETTING AROUND:

The public transportation system of Berlin, formerly divided into east and west with few interconnections, was reorganized as a single system operated by the Berlin Transport Authority (BVG). It is now quite easy to get to any destination in town or in the suburbs, which is great because distances in the spread-out city tend to be enormous. Unless you have a car, you'll find public transportation to be an essential part of your visit. The unified system consists of the:

S-Bahn — Commuter trains, usually (but not always) running above ground, which connect central city locations with the farthest reaches of Berlin and its suburbs. The entire S-Bahn network has been renovated and is once again an excellent way to get around.

U-Bahn — Subways providing a local service with many stops throughout the inner city and nearby suburbs. Several of its stations are beautifully-maintained architectural gems, while the trains are bright, clean, and punctual.

Buses and Trams — Surely the best views of Berlin are those from the upstairs front seats of its many double-decker buses. Bus stops are well marked and have amazingly accurate posted schedules. Trams (streetcars) are still used in some Eastern parts of the city.

FARES, TICKETS, and PASSES — The easiest and usually the most economical plan is to purchase a Day Ticket (Tageskarte), which entitles you to unlimited use of the entire BVG transit system (but not on a few special routes) throughout either two or three zones (A+B, B+C, or A+B+C) of Berlin all day long. Zone C includes getting to Potsdam. Costing less than three single fares, it is sold at major stations and BVG information offices, as well as from vending machines at stations and major bus stops. It is available for both adults (Erwachsene) and children between the ages of 6 and 13 (Kinder). The ticket must be validated when starting the first ride by inserting it into a red time-stamping machine (Entwerter) in stations or on board buses.

Single Tickets (Einzelfahrschein Normaltarif), valid for two hours of continuous travel anywhere in the system, are sold by machines and by bus drivers. All tickets must be validated in the time-stamping Entwerter machines before beginning a journey.

The Welcome Card, sold at ticket offices, tourist information offices, and many hotels, is a bargain entitling the holder to two or three days of unlimited travel on all regular public transportation within zones A, B, & C throughout Berlin and Potsdam. As a bonus, it also allows discounts of up to 50% on major attractions in both cities. Each card is valid for one adult and up to three children below the age of 14. This represents a super saving for anyone with kids in tow.

A simple route map of the S- and U-Bahn lines is available free at tourist offices, or you can purchase a complete one that includes all bus lines, called a Liniennetzplan, at ticket offices in the stations. For additional information about all services T: (030) 194-49, W: bvg.de.

PRACTICALITIES:

Avoid making this trip on a Monday, when many of the sights are closed. The main Berlin Tourist Information Office (Berlin Tourismus Marketing GmbH), T: (030) 250-025, W: berlin-tourist-information.de, is on the ground floor of Europa Center, facing Budapester Strasse, at the eastern end of the Kurfürstendamm. There are branch offices at the Brandenburg Gate and the Fernsehturm. Berlin has a population of about 4,250,000, making it by far the largest city in Germany.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Some good places for lunch along this walking route are:

Borchardt (Französische Str. 47, near Gendarmenmarkt) An elegant re-creation of Berlin in its heyday, serving French-style cuisine. Reservations advised, T: (030) 8188-6262. €€€

Lutter und Wegner (Charlottenstr. 56, by the Gendarmenmarkt) Traditional Austrian and German cuisine in an historic house. T: (030) 202-9540. €€ and €€€

Zur Letzten Instanz (Waisenstr. 14, 4 blocks east of the Nikolaikirche) Traditional Berlin cooking in the city's oldest restaurant, founded in the 17th century. Very popular, reservations suggested, T: (030) 242-5528. €€

Zur Rippe (Poststrasse 17, in the Nikolaiviertel) Good-value home cooking with a genuine Old Berlin atmosphere. T: (030) 242-4248. € and €€

Treffpunkt Berlin (Mittelstr. 55, a block north of Unter den Linden, near Friedrichstr.) A friendly local spot with simple dishes. T: (030) 204-1819. €

Monsieur Vuong (Alte Schönhauser Str. 46, 4 blocks northwest of Alexanderplatz) Tasty Vietnamese dishes from an ever-changing short menu — extremely popular. X: Sun. lunch. €

Dada Falafel (Linienstrasse 132, by Oranienburger Tor, off Friedrichstr., 8 blocks north of Unter den Linden) Exceptional falafel and shwarma sandwiches — mostly takeout but with some tables. T: (030) 2759-6927. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

This tour begins at Germany's historic Parliament building, easily reached on bus number 100 or by walking a few blocks northwest from the Unter den Linden station of the S-Bahn. Opened in 1894 as a home for the Imperial Parliament of Kaiser Wilhelm II's German Empire, the imposing *Reichstag Building (Reichstaggebäude) (1) has a past as troubled as that of the nation it represents. Ironically, the words above its entrance, Dem Deutschen Volk (To the German People), were added only during World War I, a conflict that the parliament proved powerless to prevent. Following defeat of the Reich in 1918, the ill-fated Weimar Republic was proclaimed from a Reichstag balcony while at the same time a rival Socialist Republic was announced just down the street to the east. It was this battle between right and left ideologies, along with deteriorating social conditions, that paved the way for the rise of Nazism during the late 1920s.

On February 27th, 1933, the Reichstag Building was badly damaged in a mysterious fire that was blamed by the Nazis on the communists, although there is some evidence that Hitler's own people started the blaze. This single event led to the draconian measures that solidified Hitler's grip on the nation.

Further damaged by bombing and ground warfare, the Reichstag was rebuilt between 1957 and 1971 and used mostly for exhibitions. With the move of Germany's federal government from Bonn to Berlin in 1999, the Reichstag once again became the seat of the Bundestag, the nation's governing body. A new glass dome was added, and today you can walk up its spiral ramp for an excellent *view of the city outside, or the politicians below. T: (030) 2273-2152, W: bundestag.de. Open daily 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Free.

Now stroll a block south to the glorious *Brandenburg Gate (Brandenburger Tor) (2) (photo, above), which until 1990 stood just inside East Berlin but was for decades inaccessible to either side. Long a symbol of Berlin, it was built in 1791 for King Frederick William II of Prussia as a triumphal gateway marking the western end of the city's grandest boulevard, the Unter den Linden. Atop the structure stands a postwar reproduction of the famous Quadriga, a four-horse chariot driven by the Goddess of Peace, who was at first stark naked but soon clothed by Prussian morality with decent copper garments. The original statue was stolen in 1806 by a victorious Napoleon but later returned, and was destroyed during World War II.

The gate opens into Pariser Platz, until 1990 a desolate lot in the middle of the no-man's land separating East and West Berlin. Today it is once again a lively place, with major embassies and a reincarnation of the supremely elegant Hotel Adlon — which served as inspiration for that great 1932 movie Grand Hotel.

Another feature of Pariser Platz is the stunning new home of the Akademie der Künste, an old art institution with chaging exhibitions. T: (030) 200-570, W: adk.de.

Walk a block south of Pariser Platz to visit the recently-opened (2005) *Holocaust Memorial (Denkmal für die Ermordeten Juden Europas) (3), a vast field of 2,711 uneven concrete slabs representing the Jewish victims of the Holocaust, through which visitors can take a disturbing walk. At the eastern end is the underground Ort der Information, where a dramatic timeline of Hitler's genocide is graphically presented. T: (030) 7407-2929, W: holocaust-mahnmal.de. Memorial always open, information center open 10-8. Free.

From pariser Platz, the Unter den Linden leads into the heart of Old Berlin. This broad, shady avenue, whose name means "Under the Lime Trees," is nearly a mile long and was laid out in 1647. Enlarged by Frederick the Great in 1734, it connected the former Imperial Palace with the Tiergarten hunting grounds in the west. During the 19th century the Unter den Linden became the most fashionable promenade in Berlin, soon acquiring street lighting, cafés, shops, and later banks and luxury hotels. Throughout the Weimar and Nazi eras it remained a street of pleasure — right up until the very moment the bombs fell and reduced its ornate buildings to rubble. After the war, the earlier structures at the eastern end were restored by the East German government. Modern embassies, office buildings, hotels, shops, and the new Deutsche Guggenheim Berlin art museum now line the western stretch. Although the street is still quite elegant, over 40 years of communist rule had drained it of the joyous atmosphere it once thrived on; fortunately this has now returned.

You will soon come to the equestrian Statue of Frederick the Great, the enlightened ruler of 18th-century Prussia whose spirit you'll be meeting on the Sans Souci trip (page 263). To the left of this is Humboldt University, once the University of Berlin, which counts among its former students both Marx and Engels. It was founded in 1810 by Wilhelm von Humboldt, the youngest brother of the explorer Alexander von Humboldt. Statues of both flank the entrance.

Directly across the street is Bebelplatz (4), also known as Opernplatz. On May 11th, 1933, this was the scene of a ceremonial book burning in which thousands of volumes that conflicted with Nazi doctrine went up in smoke. An underground room lined with empty bookshelves, visible from a window in the ground, memorializes the act.

On the west side of the square is an old library popularly called "Kommode" (after its curved façade), where Lenin studied in the reading room during 1895. The State Opera (Deutsche Staatsoper), on the east side, was first built in 1743 and reconstructed several times after fires and bombings. Behind this stands St. Hedwig's Cathedral, a Baroque masterpiece begun in 1747 and modeled on the Pantheon in Rome. It has been the seat of the Roman Catholic bishop of Berlin since 1930.

Back on the Unter den Linden, you are only steps from the Neue Wache (5), a Prussian guardhouse built in 1818 in the style of a Greek temple. Since 1960 it has served as a memorial to the victims of fascism and militarism, with an eternal flame, ashes of resistance fighters, earth from the concentration camps, and the Mother with Dead Son statue modeled on a famous image by Käthe Kollwitz.

Just beyond this is the Zeughaus (Arsenal), a stunning late-17th-century Baroque building once used to store war booty and later as a museum glorifying the Prussian army. Since 1952 it has housed the:

MUSEUM OF GERMAN HISTORY (Deutsches Historisches Museum) (6), T: (030) 2030-4750, W: dhm.de. Open daily, 10-6. €.

A visit here reveals a fascinating collection of artifacts from long ago until modern times, with an emphasis on the recent past. Be sure to visit the inner courtyard with its *sculptures of dying warriors in agony, an early indictment of the horrors of war. Behinf the historic building stands the striking new annex designed by I.M. Pei, used for temporaryu exhibits.

Now follow the map to the Spree Canal, passing an inviting outdoor café, and continue along to the fabulous:

*PERGAMON MUSEUM (7), T: (030) 2090-5555, W: smb.spk-berlin.de. Open Tues.-Sun., 10-6, remaining open on Thurs. until 10. €€. Passes valid at all National Museums in Berlin or just on Museum Insel will save you money.

This is surely one of the greatest institutions of its type on Earth. Built in the early 20th century to display a multitude of treasures from the ancient world that were unearthed by German archaeologists, its greatest single attraction is the monumental *Pergamon Altar (photo, above), dating from at least 160 BC and discovered in Turkey in 1876. Among the other riches are the Processional Way and Ishtar Gate (photo, right) from ancient Babylon, the Roman Market Gate of Miletus, a mosaic wall from 3000 BC, and a vast collection of Islamic and Far Eastern art. Don't miss this special treat.

A few steps to the north brings you to the:

BODE MUSEUM (8), T: (030) 2090-5555, W: smb.spk-berlin.de. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-6, remaining open until 10 on Thurs. €€.

Reopened in late 2006 after a lengthy restoration, the Bode once again puts its vast collection of sculpture from the Middle Ages to the late 18th century on display along with Byzantine art, Russian icons, and coins from around the world.

Continue back along the canal and cross it onto Bodestrasse. The National Gallery (Alte Nationalgalerie) (9) has a comprehensive collection of 19th-century European art, with a heavy emphasis on German painting. T: (030) 2090-555775, W: smb.spk-berlin.de. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-6. €€, or use the museum pass.

Just across the street stands the Old Museum (Altes Museum), mostly devoted to Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities along with special exhibitions. Until 2009 or thereabouts it is also temporary home to the Egyptian Museum, famed for its *Bust of Nefertiti. This will move to the nearby Neues Museum when that reopens. T: (030) 2090-55775, W: smb.spk-berlin.de. €€ or use the economical museum pass.

Next to the museum complex stands the Berlin Cathedral (Berliner Dom) (10), a neo-Renaissance structure completed in 1905 for Kaiser Wilhelm II. The main Protestant church of Berlin, it contains in its Hohenzollern Vault the remains of many of the rulers of Prussia. A balcony inside allows a wonderful view of the restored interior, and there's a small museum. T: (030) 202-690, W: berliner-dom.de. Open Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m. to 8 p.m., Sun. and holidays noon-8; closing at 7 from Oct.-March. €.

By now, the hideous Palast der Republik of 1975, across the street and once the seat of the East German parliament, should be gone. This occupied the site of the Kaiser's Imperial Palace, which survived the war but was demolished in 1951 by the communist government. Some would like to rebuild the old palace in its place, if only the funds were available.

Cross the Spree River and follow Kark-Liebknecht-Strasse to the Marienkirche (St. Mary's Church) (11), a 13th-century Gothic structure that looks wildly out of place in its almost surrealist setting. Inside, however, it has been beautifully restored and features a 74-foot-long Totentanz (Dance of Death) fresco, probably dating from a 15th-century outbreak of the plague. Continue along Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse and turn right on Karl-Marx-Allee (formerly Stalin Allee) to what was the center of activity in East Berlin, the Alexanderplatz (12). This enormous, windswept pedestrian plaza, lined as far as the eye can see with featureless modern boxes, is at least enlivened with a few sculptures including the unusual World Time Clock, surely the brainchild of a mad sputnik scientist. Before World War II, the "Alex" was a very different place, a crowded area of small shops that throbbed with street life. Its colorful ambiance was beautifully captured in Alfred Döblin's 1929 novel of human vices and passions, Berlin-Alexanderplatz, later made into a dark, lengthy film by Fassbinder.

Go through the passage next to the elevated train station to Berlin's most visible landmark, the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) (photo, left) (13). Built in 1969 as a proud symbol of socialist prosperity, it is 1,197 feet high and sports the inevitable revolving restaurant. You can ride an elevator to the observation level for a terrific view, and to the Telecafé for a light lunch or refreshments. One curious aspect of the tower is that when the sun shines on its metallic globe it forms a reflection in the shape of a cross that can be seen across the city; in what was officially a secular communist state this phenomenon became known as the "Pope's Revenge." T: (030) 242-3333, W: berlinerfernsehturm.de. Open daily March-Oct., 9 a.m.-midnight; Nov.-Feb., 10 a.m.-midnight. €€.

Just south of the tower, directly across from the Neptune Fountain of 1891, stands the Berliner Rathaus (14) (photo, below) of 1869, once the Town Hall for East Berlin and now the seat of local government for all Berlin. It is often called the Rotes Rathaus, as much for the color of its bricks as for its left-wing politics even in the time of the Empire. Berlin's history is depicted on an exterior frieze of 36 plaques running clear around the building.

The very heart of Old Berlin, the *Nikolaiviertel (15), lies just around the corner. Most of this historic district was totally demolished by World War II bombs, but the Gothic *Nikolaikirche (St. Nicholas' Church), partially dating from 1230 and the oldest building in Berlin, made it through the devastation and was restored in the mid-1980s. It now houses a museum of medieval Berlin. T: (030) 2472-4529, W: stadtmuseum.de. Open Tues. and Thurs.-Sun. 10-6, Wed. noon-8. €. Several other venerable structures in the immediate neighborhood, most notably the rococo Ephraim-Palais and the 18th-century Knoblauchhaus, have been restored and are used for exhibitions. Surrounding these are replicas of Alt-Berlin taverns and shops, and other recent buildings that somehow convey a feeling of the past.

Now follow the map across the Spree River and into what was Old Berlin's rival town of Cölln during medieval times. Little of its past remains; however you might want to take a look at the Friedrichsgracht along the east bank of the Spree Canal, and at some of the surrounding streets. 

A short distance to the south, on the Spree River, is Berlin's Historical Harbor (Historischer Hafen Berlin) (16), an outdoor museum of river and canal boats, some of which can be boarded. T: (030) 2147-3257, W: historischer-hafen-berlin.de. Open May-Oct., Tues.-Fri. 2-6, Sat.-Sun. 11-6. €.

Continue on to Gendarmenmarkt (17), an elegant square of restored classical buildings. In its center is the Schauspielhaus, a notable theater built in 1821 that reopened as a major concert hall in 1984. The domed Protestant church to its right is the Französische Dom, which has served Berlin's large Huguenot community since 1705. From here it is a short stroll back to the Unter den Linden, or you can get a subway from the nearby station.

ADDITIONAL ATTRACTION:

Just a few blocks north of the Pergamon and Bode museums is the really unexpected Ramones Museum (18), a private establishment dedicated to the memory of that seminal 1970's punk rock band from New York. Filled with artifacts, clothing, photos, and more, it makes you want to shout "Gabba Gabba Hey!" while enjoying snacks and drinks at their Café Mania. Krausnickstr. 23, S-Bahn Oranienburger Tor. T: (030) 7552-8890. W: ramonesmuseum.com. Open Tues.-Thurs. 8:30-6; Fri. 8:30-8, Sat. 10-8, Sun. 12-6. Free.

LIST OF MORE FREE DAYTRIPS SAMPLES

Tragedy of a Gunslinger

A number of years ago Arthur Chapman, the Western poet who wrote Out Where the West Begins, explained "Billy the Kid must remain wholly the most unaccountable figure in all frontier history."

For three-quarters of a century he remained exactly that — the victim of the myths which had surrounded and captured him.

Hundreds of articles, radio and TV shows, stories, books and motion pictures have been written around this unique young man. Unfortunately none of the writers had access to more than a small part of the hidden source material which would have cleared away the fabulous tales and obscure half-truths and brought into clear focus the real Billy the Kid and the great days he lived.

For the first time the fully documented facts have now been brought together. They comprise a great mass of letters, newspaper accounts, official reports and word-of-mouth recollections.

Tragedy of a Gunslinger by Frazier Hunt, ISBN: 978-0-8038-2092-0