PENNSYLVANIA'S AMISH COUNTRYSIDE

A SLOW MEANDER THROUGH PENNSYLVANIA'S AMISH COUNTRYSIDE...A daytrip into the distant past

Hello! Earl Steinbicker here. Usually I write about Daytrips in Europe, but this time I've selected one right here in my own backyard. Well, almost — it's about a 60-mile drive from home. This is a really relaxing, laid-back tour through pastoral countryside, just an hour's journey from Philadelphia. Along the way you'll meet some truly fascinating folks and experience a bit of an unusual life style.

This self-guided trip was taken directly from the pages of my Daytrips Pennsylvania Dutch Country & Philadelphia guidebook, but updated and with color added. It can also be done by bicycle. Don't forget to bring along a hearty appetite!

This is a cow

Heart of the Amish Countryside

From the sublimely bucolic to the ridiculously tacky, this drive covers a wide, wide range of Pennsylvania Dutch Country experiences — all within a short distance of Lancaster, and completely feasible as a daytrip from Philadelphia. Along the way you'll encounter some of the most gorgeous scenery in the world, which more than compensates for the patches of shameless tourist traps near the beginning and end. Even scattered among these lurk some real gems that are just too good to miss.

Relax, take it easy, and drive slow. There are quite a few attactions along the way, but none as important as the setting itself. Why not pull over to the side of the road and take a walk along country lanes, drinking in the delicious sights and exchanging greetings with the friendly folks you'll meet? And for that matter, why stick to the suggested route? Driving down some of the side roads may lead to serendipitous discoveries — especially north of Route PA-340. For the physically ambitious, this trip makes a wonderful bicycle excursion. The terrain is rolling, with a few moderate hills, and for the most part traffic is light.

GETTING THERE:

The starting point of this 25-mile-long scenic drive is about 11 miles southeast of Lancaster, along US-30 just east of Paradise. From Philadelphia, take US-30 west for about 58 miles, expecting congestion in the last few miles around Gap and Kinzers.

PRACTICALITIES:
Good weather is absolutely essential for this largely outdoor trip. Weekdays are preferred, as you'll encounter less traffic in the tourist areas. Several of the best attractions are closed on Sundays, and many in the off-season. Check the individual listings, remembering that the drive itself is the main attraction.

You may well encounter more horse-drawn buggies and farm vehicles than cars, so drive slowly and very, very carefully. Passing on the narrow roads should be done with great caution, being careful not to "spook" the horses by blowing your horn.

Taking photographs of Amish people in which they can be recognized is a violation of their religious beliefs concerning graven images, and is highly offensive. Please respect their privacy and avoid trespassing on their land.

Regional information is available from the Pennsylvania Dutch Convention & Visitors Bureau, just east of Lancaster at 501 Greenfield Road (at US-30), Lancaster, PA 17601, T: 717-299-8901 or 1-800-723-8824.

FOOD AND DRINK:
Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine means hearty servings of "comfort" foods like your great-grandmother used to make, often in large restaurants with communal seating and frequently no menus. This "family style" dining is just that — you sit with strangers, pass around the overflowing dishes, take all you want of whatever you want, and generally have a good time. Some establishments offer buffet or à la carte service at private tables instead. Be sure to try the shoofly pie — "chust this once." Most restaurants do not serve liquor, and some are closed on Sundays. Among the better choices are:

Plain & Fancy Farm (PA-340, 2 miles east of Bird-in-Hand) Fixed-price PA-Dutch meals served family-style in a large barn. Reduced price for children. No menu. Reservations suggested, T: 717-768-4400. $$
Good 'N' Plenty (PA-896, a half-mile south of PA 340, at Smoketown) An enormous family-style restaurant with copious servings of PA-Dutch favorites. Reduced price for children. T: 717-394-7111. X: Sun. $$
Miller's Smorgasbord (US-30, east of the intersection with N. Ronks Rd.) A fixed-price buffet with all you can eat. Special price for children. In business since 1929. Reservations are accepted, T: 717-687-6621. $$
Amish Barn Restaurant (PA-340, a mile east of Bird-in-Hand) Abundant PA-Dutch dishes are offered either à la carte or family style. T: 717-768-8886. X: Mon.-Wed. in Jan.-March. $
Bird-in-Hand Family Restaurant (PA-340 near Ronks Rd., Bird-in-Hand) PA-Dutch home cooking. X: Sun. T: 717-768-8266. $

For something different, you might try the restaurants in nearby Strasburg.

SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
CLICK ON MAP FOR LARGE PRINTABLE IMAGE

Where better to begin your trip than in Paradise (1)? Head about a mile east along US-30 from this small town, and turn north on Belmont Road. Suddenly, in just yards, all of the traffic and tourist traps disappear and you're out in the real countryside. Soon you'll come to Paradise Bridge (2), a delightful covered bridge built in 1893, also known as the Leaman Place or Eshelman's Mill Bridge. Before crossing it, pull over to the side of the road, get out, and wait for the first horse-drawn buggy to come along. You won't have to wait long. What an idyllic scene!

Ahead lies the village of Intercourse (3), whose curious name raises a few eyebrows — especially as the road from it leads to Paradise. Actually, its name probably refers to its location at the junction of what in the early 19th century were two main highways. In the mid-1950s an attempt was made to change the name, and a decade later a pornography publisher attempted to use it as a mailing address. Fortunately, both schemes failed. Once a delightful Amish settlement, Intercourse is today overrun with quainte gifte shoppes, but it does have at least one place of compelling interest, namely:

THE OLD COUNTRY STORE, Route 340, Intercourse, PA 17534, T: 1-800-828-8218. Open Mon.-Sat., 9-5, remaining open until 6:30 from June-Oct. Closed Sun., New Year's, Thanksgiving, Christmas. Free. Book shop. Craft shop.
You might want to visit this historic country store for two reasons. First, to shop for genuine local items created by Amish and Mennonite craftspersons, and second to visit the free People's Place Quilt Museum on the second floor. Here you can examine changing exhibitions of antique Amish and Mennonite quilts, mostly dating from the 19th and early 20th centuries. The store itself was established in 1833 and rebuilt in 1881 after a disastrous fire. Be sure to stroll the outdoor Story Walk on the west side of the building, which explains local history.

Poke around the other shops of Intercourse, then head north on PA-772 (Newport Road), following the map and occasionally making diversions from it as the mood strikes you. Continue north on Hess Road, turning left on East Eby Road. Here, on the right, you'll come to an old Amish Cemetery (4), whose gravestones can be read by peering over the fence. Turn left (south) on Stumptown Road, which soon brings you to the utterly delightful little hamlet of Mascot (5). Right at the intersection, a dam backs up the water of Mill Creek to provide water power for the local mill, as Amish lads fish in the stream. There's even a free place to park here, and not a commercial establishment in sight. But there are two marvelous free attractions:

*MASCOT ROLLER MILLS, Ronks, PA, T: 717-656-7616. Open May-Oct., Mon.-Sat. 9-4. Free.
Almost too picturesque to believe, the old Mascot Mill was built of stone in 1760 and continued operations until 1977. It was owned by three generations of the Ressler family from 1864 until the retirement of W. Franklin Ressler, who with his sister created the Ressler Mill Foundation to preserve this rural heritage for all time. A large enough endowment was left to pay for restoration, maintenance, and guides — which is why everything here is free. Stop in, watch the video, enjoy a demonstration of the working macinery, and examine the colorful old Mascot Post Office, unchanged since 1934.

The *Ressler Family House, next door to the mill, is equally intriguing, and is also open to visitors as part of the same foundation. It, too, is miraculously free. Everything here is as it  was; simple, practical, and well-loved by the many generations of the same family. Be sure to take the tour as this is the kind of place that's all too seldom encountered.

Continue west on Stumptown Road, making a left onto Gibbons Road at an especially attractive farm, and another left onto Beechdale Road. In about a half-mile, turn left again on Church Road, and left yet again on Weavertown Road. Finally, a right onto North Harvest Road brings you to the Old Philadelphia Pike, PA-340. To the left is the:

AMISH EXPERIENCE THEATER & AMISH COUNTRY HOMESTEAD (6), 3121Old Philadelphia Pike, Bird-in-Hand, PA 17505, T: 717-768-3600. Open daily Apr.-Nov., weekends Dec.-March, closed Thanksgiving and Christmas; Theater: daily Apr.-Dec., weekends Jan.-March. Homestead: Adults $7.95, children (4-12) $4.95. Theater: Adults $8.95, children (4-12) 5.95. Bargain combo tickets available.
Here visitors can discover how the Old Order Amish live today, without electricity but with surprising adaptations to contemporary life. The replica Homestead is authentically furnished, and affords a glimpse into a world you could hardly penetrate otherwise. The adjacent Amish Experience Theater tells the story of these remarkable people through the medium of a 30-minute multimedia production, intermingled with the drama of a modern Amish teenager's quest to discover himself.

Head west on PA-340, the old "King's Highway" of the early 18th century, possibly stopping at the Weavertown One Room Schoolhouse (7). This was a real country schoolhouse from 1877 until 1969, after which the teacher and students were replaced with realistic animated figures who put on an entertaining show. T: 717-768-4424. Open Apr.-Oct., daily 10-5, and weekends in March and Nov. Adults $4, children (4-12) $2.50.

Bird-in-Hand, which got its name from the sign of an early inn, is the next village. Just west of it is Abe's Buggy Rides (8), a concession that has been offering short two-mile rides in Amish horse-drawn buggies for over 35 years. T: 717-392-1794. Open Mon.-Sat., 8-dusk. Adults $10, children (3-12) $5.

Continue west, turning south on Oakview Road. Make a left onto US-30, a congested highway lined with outlet shops, fast-food eateries, strip malls, tourist traps of the worst kind, and — incredibly — on the right, the Mennonite Information Center (9), where you can learn more about the Amish and Mennonite ways of life. The center also offers a short film about the Mennonites, and tour guides who can lead you (in your car) to many out-of-the-way places not spoiled by commercialism. Adjacent to the center is the Hebrew Tabernacle Reproduction, an actual-size model of the ancient Tabernacle of Jerusalem described in the Bible, including the *Ark of the Covenant. 2209 Mill Stream Rd., Lancaster, PA 17602, T: 717-299-0954. Open Apr.-Oct., Mon.-Sat. 8-5; Nov.-March, Mon.-Sat. 8:30-4:30. Center free, tabernacle tours: Adults $6, seniors $5.50, children (7-12) $3.50. Tour guides $36 for 2 hours, each additional hour $12, reservations T: 1-800-858-8320.

Down the road, past the Dutch Wonderland Amusement Park, is the Discover Lancaster County History Museum (10). The name says it all — an audiovisual presentation of the county's history from the 1600s to the present, including an animated Amish Barn raising. T: 717-393-3679. Open daily all year. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year's. Adults $8.50, seniors $7.25, children (5-11) $5.25.
Continuing east on US-30 brings you to a final attraction, the:

AMISH FARM AND HOUSE (11), 2395 Lincoln Hwy. East (US-30), Lancaster, PA 17602, T: 717-394-6185. Open daily all year, 8:30-6 in summer, until 5 in spring and fall, closing at 4 in winter. Closed Christmas. Adults $7.25, seniors (60+) $6.50, children (5-11) $4.75. Gift shop. Snacks.
You won't meet any Amish at this commercial attraction, but otherwise it's a quite authentic presentation of their rural ways of life. Visits begin with a lecture and tour of the 10-room farmhouse, built around 1805 and simply furnished in the Old-Order Amish tradition. You can then explore the 25-acre farm with its barn, windmill, waterwheels, spring house, chicken coop, corn crib, lime kiln, blacksmith shop, and more. Live animals and growing crops add to the interest, as does the small museum.

Copyright © 2000 Earl Steinbicker. This chapter from Daytrips Pennsylvania Dutch Country & Philadelphia has been updated in 2006, modified slightly for web use, and has had color added.

COMING: More selections from the Daytrips series of travel guides, covering sites in Europe, North America, and the Pacific.

CHECK OUT Daytrips Pennsylvania Dutch Country & Philadelphia online at Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble, or Daytrips Books.

BROWSE through the pages of Daytrips Pennsylvania Dutch Country & Philadelphia and our other books at Google Books. Enter Daytrips in the search field.