A FAIRYTALE CASTLE IN THE GRAND DUCHY

A FAIRYTALE CASTLE IN THE GRAND DUCHY...an easy daytrip from Luxembourg City

Here's a wonderful little one-day adventure taken right out of the pages of our guidebook, Daytrips Holland, Belgium & Luxembourg. If you're heading that way, be sure to print it out and take along as a guide.

Vianden

Towering high above a romantic village, the fairytale castle of Vianden casts its spell on the narrow, cobbled streets below. This is, quite simply, the most picturesque little town in the Grand Duchy, and the most enticing destination for a daytrip from Luxembourg City. In addition to its restored medieval castle, it offers a visit to the exile home of Victor Hugo, an excellent folklore museum, magnificent scenery, and a delightful atmosphere that attracts visitors from all over Europe.

The story of Vianden is the story of its castle. A small fort has existed on this hill since Roman times, and a castle was built over it in the 9th century. This was greatly enlarged during the 11th, 12th, and 15th centuries and became an ancestral home of the House of Orange-Nassau, the dynasty that supplies both the kings and queens of the Netherlands as well as the grand dukes of Luxembourg.

Although you should really devote an entire day to enjoying Vianden, it is possible to combine a daytrip there with one to either Clervaux or Echternach, described in the next two chapters. Doing this is much more practical by car, even though there is direct bus service between Vianden and Echternach. To reach Clervaux involves a bus to Ettelbruck and then a train.

GETTING THERE:
Trains depart the Luxembourg City Station several times in the morning for the half-hour ride to Ettelbruck, where you change to a connecting bus for Vianden. The bus ride takes about 30 minutes and railpasses are accepted. T: 2687-4157.

By Car, head north from Luxembourg City on the N-7 road to Diekirch, then follow local roads to Vianden. The total distance is 43 km (27 miles).

PRACTICALITIES:
Vianden is best visited on any fine day from April through October. The local Tourist Office (Syndicat d'Initiative), T: 834-257-1 , is at 1a Rue du Vieux Marché, just across the bridge.

FOOD AND DRINK:
Le Châtelain (126 Grand Rue, in the Hôtel Oranienburg just below the castle) A popular restaurant with French cuisine and an outdoor terrace. T: 834-153. €€ and €€€
Auberge du Château (74 Grand Rue, near the folklore museum) Good-value meals at an attractive inn. T: 834-574. €€
Heintz (55 Grand Rue, near the Parish Church) A small hotel with good food in an ancient building. T: 834-155. € and €€
Aal Veinen (114 Grand Rue, below the castle) Hearty, simple cooking in a rustic house from 1683. T: 834-368. € and €€
Auberge de l'Our (35 Grand Rue, near the Victor Hugo House) Local specialties, with a view. T: 834-675. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
CLICK ON MAP FOR A LARGE, PRINTABLE VIEW

Leave the Bus Station (Gare Routière) (1) and stroll down Rue de la Gare to the Victor Hugo House (2). The great French writer loved Vianden and stayed there several times, including a period of political exile in 1871. Reconstructed after World War II damage, the house is now a small museum containing some of the author's belongings, and documents relating to his visits. T: 2687-4088. Open Tues.-Sun. 11-5. €.

Just before the bridge there is a bust of Victor Hugo. In the middle of the span you'll see a statue of St. Nepomuk, the patron saint of bridges. Continue across the Our River and head up Grand Rue to the Parish Church of the Trinitarians (3), a Gothic structure with a double nave dating from 1248. It is one of the oldest religious buildings in Luxembourg and is noted for its fine rococo altar. A short visit here is definitely worthwhile, as are a few moments spent in the 14th-century cloisters behind it.

The route now leads uphill and climbs steeply to one of the greatest architectural treasures of the region, the:

*CASTLE OF VIANDEN (Château de Vianden) (4), T: 834-108. Open Jan.-Feb. daily 10-4; March daily 10-5; April-Sept. daily 10-6; Oct. daily 10-5; Nov.-Dec. daily 10-4. Closed New Year's Day, Nov. 2, Christmas. €€.
Until a few decades ago, Vianden's great castle lay in a state of semi-ruin, but a major restoration project has revived its former medieval splendor. The roof is back on, and many of the rooms are again furnished with period pieces. A printed diagram in English will be given to you at the entrance.

Return to the village and follow the very charming Vieille Rue until it joins Grand Rue. Across  the street is the Museum of Rustic Arts and Puppets (Musée de la Poupée et d'Art Rustique) (5), where local crafts, antiques, household items, toys and puppets are displayed in a charming old house. T: 834-591. Open Easter-Oct., daily 11-5. Closed on Mon. in the off-season. €.

You could easily return to the river by strolling down Grand Rue, but a more interesting (if slightly rugged) way to get there is by following the remnants of the ancient Town Walls (6). Now re-cross the bridge and turn left on Rue Victor Hugo, which brings you to the Chairlift (Télésiège) (7). From here, you can take an enjoyable ride across the river and up to the top of a hill overlooking the valley, town, and castle. There's also an outdoor café for refreshment while taking in the lovely *view. T: 834-323. Operates Easter to mid-Oct., daily 10 to 5 or 6. Closes in bad weather. €.

Ambitious walkers may want to continue on to the Dam (Barrage) (8). This forms the lower reservoir of a vast pumped-storage hydroelectric complex. During the night, when demand for power is low, surplus electricity is used to pump water from here to a higher reservoir. During peak-use periods this is released, turning generators on its way down. If you have a car, you might want to drive about three miles beyond the dam to the underground gallery, which may be visited. T: 849-031-1. Open daily 10-4. Free. Ask at the tourist office for details concerning guided tours.

Walk across the top of the dam and follow the trail past the 17th-century Church of St. Rochus. From the bottom of the hill, Rue du Marché brings you back to town, where you can stop for some refreshment before heading out to the bus station.

Extracted from Daytrips Holland, Belgium & Luxembourg, 4th edition. Copyright © 2006 Earl Steinbicker.

Next time, another Daytrip you can print out and use. It may be in Europe, the British Isles, North America, or the Pacific. Stay tuned!

BROWSE through the pages of this and other Daytrips and Hastings House books as you would in a bookstore, using the marvelous new Google Books site. Enter the search field for Daytrips or Hastings House.

CHECK OUT Daytrips Holland, Belgium & Luxembourg at Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble, Daytrips Books, or Booksurge.

COMMENTS can be sent by e-mail to the editor, who will post all relevant ones here. Please let us know if we can use your name and/or e-mail address. Thank you.