Fjord du Saguenay

Taken directly from Karen Desrosiers' comprehensive guidebook Daytrips Québec, this excursion from Québec City into a natural wonderland can be done in a day, although a more leisurely two-day outing is recommended.

FJORD DU SAGUENAY

The Fjord du Saguenay is a spectacular natural wonderland, protected by the Parc du Saguenay and Parc Marin du Saguenay-Saint-Laurent. Solid walls of rock drop to the dark cool waters of the river, while picturesque villages rest snuggly between the river's edge and mountains.

The Rivière Saguenay, which stretches for over 152 km (95 miles), is the only river draining Lac Saint-Jean. From Saint-Fulgence, about 48 km (30 miles) from Lac Saint-Jean, to the Saint Lawrence River in Tadoussac, the Saguenay River flows through this awesome fjord.

Cut in Precambrian rock during the last Ice Age, the deep fjord is bordered by striking cliffs, some of which are over 450 meters (1,500 feet) high. The river is as much as 1476 meters (4,920 feet) in places and averages 236 meters (787 feet) deep.

GETTING THERE:

By Car, L'Anse-Saint-Jean and Tadoussac (the start and ending points of the tour) are each about 248 km (155 miles) north and northeast of Québec City. The tour around the fjord is also about 248 km (155 miles) long.

Take Rte. 138 east from Québec City to Saint-Siméon. Turn left onto Rte. 170.

Turn right and follow signs to L'Anse-Saint-Jean.

Return to Rte. 170 and turn right. At Rivière-Éternité turn right into the Parc du Saguenay.

Return to Rte. 170 and turn right. At Saint-Félix-d'Otis, turn right and follow the rough road to Nuevo France.

Continue on the old road until it meets with Rte. 170 again. Turn right and continue on Rte. 170 to La Baie.

Bear left, continuing on Rte. 170 to Chicoutimi. Turn right on Rte. 175 and follow it to the center of town and the old port. Cross the bridge to the opposite side of the river. Turn right on Rte. 172 east.

Turn right, descending to the river, for Sainte-Rose-du-Nord.

Return to Rte. 172 and continue to Tadoussac. Turn right onto Rte. 138. A free ferry service brings you across the mouth of the Saguenay River. Continue on Rte. 138, returning to Québec City.

PRACTICALITIES:

This is a long tour, with a lot of driving involved, so it is recommended that you get an early start to do it in one day. Or, consider taking two days to move at a more leisurely pace. There are places to stay in Chicoutimi (the halfway point of the tour) and in Tadoussac. You may also want to combine this trip with a tour of Tadoussac (Trip 15).

The weather can be cool in the area around the Fjord du Saguenay, even in August. It is wise to have warm clothes with you when visiting the area, just in case they are needed.

Tourisme Chicoutimi-Valin, 295 Rue Racine, Chicoutimi. Open year-round Mon.-Fri. 8:30-12 and 1:30-4:30. T: (418) 698-3167 or 1-800-463-6565.

Société Touristique du Fjord, 1171 Avenue 7th, La Baie. Open year-round Mon.-Fri. 8:30-12 and 1:30-4:30. T: (418) 697-5050 or 1-800-263-2243.

Additional tourist information is available on the Internet.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Cactus Rock Café (200 Boulevard Grande-Baie North, La Baie) Casual restaurant-bar serving an extensive menu of international, Canadian, vegetarian, and seafood dishes. T: (418) 544-9310. $$

La Sauvagine (122 Rue Jacques-Cartier East, Chicoutimi) Fine French cuisine and regional game dishes. T: (418) 690-2255. $$$

Restaurant Bistro La Cuisine (387 Racine East, Chicoutimi) Delicious and satisfying French, International, grill and seafood, popular with the local crowd. T: (418) 698-2822. $$ and $$$

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

CLICK ON MAP FOR LARGE PRINTABLE IMAGE.

Start the tour in perhaps one of the most beautiful villages of the Fjord du Saguenay, L'Anse-Saint-Jean (1). This charming town, founded in 1828, with beautiful ancestral homes and a preserved covered bridge, will win your heart. Resting on the edge of the Saguenay River and surrounded by mountains, the village is a peaceful place offering a wide variety of nearby activities.

For an adventurous look at the Fjord dy Saguenay, try Fjord en Kayak, 359 Rue St.-Jean-Baptiste. A number of expeditions are available, offering a close look at all the beauty and splendor of the fjord. The Islet Saint-Jean tour is a memorable three-hour journey by small islands, waterfalls, and steep cliffs. The outfitters supply weatherproof clothing free of charge. T: (418) 272-3024. Tours run mid-May through Sept. Three-hour tours depart at 9:30, 2 and 5:30. Rates start at $42 per person. Not recommended for children under 3.

Cross the covered bridge, continue for about 4.8 km (3 miles) and turn right to access Anse de Tabatière for amazing views of the area.

The village of Rivière-Éternité (2) has been called the Bethlehem of the snow. A number of life-size religious scenes are displayed in the peaceful municipal park. The Exposition Internationale de Crèches de Rivière-Éternité. held in the basement of the church at 418 Rue Principale, has a charming exhibit of more than 250 nativity scenes created by artists from Québec and around the world. T: (418) 272-2807. Open July-Sept. daily 9-7; late Nov. to early Jan. daily 12:30-7:30, Sun. 10:30-7:30. Admission $5 for adults, $2 for children, children under 5 are free.

PARC du SAGUENAY (3), T: 1-877-272-5229. Open mid-May through June daily 9-5; July-Labor Day daily 9-9; Sept. to early Oct. daily 9-5. Admission $3.50 for adults, $1.50 for children 6-17, children 5 and under are free. Family rates are available.

Founded in 1983, the park was established to protect the fjord, extending for over 96 km (60 miles) and covering more than 298 square kilometers (115 square miles).

The "Secteur Baie Éternité" has a welcome center at the gate that provides information and maps. At the end of the road, an Interpretation Center welcomes visitors and provides the base for outdoor activities in the park. Exhibits introduce visitors to the flora and fauna of the area and explain the formation of the fjord.

A scenic cruise on Croisière du Cap Trinité, departing from the visitor center, is the ideal way to see the stunning cliffs and capes of the fjord. T: (418) 272-2591. Tours run late May to mid-Sept., 11 and 2:30, for 1½ hours. Admission $20 for adults.

Cap Trinité (4) rises sharply at the confluence of the Rivière Éternité and the Fjord du Saguenay. The round trip usually takes about three to three-and-a-half hours. A statue of the Virgin Mary, known as Our Lady of the Saguenay, is perched 177 meters (590 feet) above the dark waters on the first ledge of the cape. The statue, created in 1881, is over 26 feet tall, carved from three blocks of pine and covered in lead. The 3,400-kilo (7,000-pound) statue turned out to be too heavy to bring up the cliff. It had to be separated into pieces, carried up individually, and then reassembled.

A stop at Saint-Félix d'Otis is a trip to the pristine and wild land of Québec's past. The virgin landscape has been popular with moviemakers. The site of Nuevo France (5), off Chemin du Vieux, transports visitors to the 17th century, when the first settlers inhabited the area. Professional guides in period costumes lead visitors through authentically re-created buildings representing a Huron Village, Québec City, a country house, and a Montagnais village. T: (418) 544-8027. Open late June to mid-Aug., daily 9:15-4:30; late Aug.-Labor Day, weekends 9:15-4:30. Admission $12 for adults, $6 for children, children under 5 are free. Call for times of English language tours.

La Baie (6) sits at the end of the magnificent Baie des Ha! Ha!, known locally as "the sea." Legend has it that the bay was named after Ha! Ha! Street in 17th-century Paris. A group of settlers, dubbing themselves the Society of Twenty-One, set out to settle the Saguenay-Saint-Jean area and founded three villages at the end of the Baie des Ha! Ha! in 1838. The villages were later merged into the community of La Baie.

Parc Mars, running along the bay, affords spectacular views of the fjord. Near the park, gift shops and galleries await.

The Musée du Fjord, 3346 Boulevard de la Grande-Baie South, has a number of interesting natural science and art exhibits. A vast display of mounted insects give a close look at the mysterious world of Québec's worlds. The "Paysages du Fjord" exhibit features the latest works of regional artists. A new exhibit and documentary commemorate the flood of 1996. T: (418) 697-5077. Open late June to Labor Day, Mon.-Fri. 9-6; Labor Day to late June, Tues.-Fri. 9-5, Sat.-Sun. 1-5. Admission $8.50 for adults, $5.50 for students and children 6-11, children under 5 are free.

Check out La Pyramide des Ha! Ha!, Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean's monument to the millennium. The reflecting pyramid, made primarily of aluminum, was built by a group pf citizens after the 1996 flood.

MUSÉE de la DÉFENSE AÉRIENNE de BAGOTVILLE (7), Route 170, Bogotville. T: (418) 677-4000 ext. 8159. Open mid-June through Aug. daily 9-5. Guided tours of the Canadian Forces Base at 9:45 and 2, by reservation. Admission, for museum and tour, $4 for adults, $3 for children, children under 5 are free.

This is the only museum in Québec dedicated to the history of military aviation. Interesting and informative exhibits, featuring aviation artifacts and models, illustrate the history of Canadian military air defense and the Canadian Forces Base in Bagotville. During a tour of the base, get a close look at the CF-18 Hornet, as well as other military planes from Canada and around the world.

Continue on to Chicoutimi (8). Situated around three magnificent rivers (Chocoutimi, du Moulin, and Saguenay), Chicoutimi was the hub of the fur trade that thrived in the area for nearly 200 years, but was not founded as a community until 1842, when the first sawmill was erected at the site. Today, the city is a world leader in the pulp and paper industry. The city's name is derived from the Montagnais word "eshko-timiou" which means "edge of deep waters."

The downtown area of the city is alive with boutiques, galleries, pubs, and terraced restaurants.

The historic basin area of the city has a number of interesting sites and a scenic walkway. The basin was the area most effected during the massive flood of 1996 and has since been reconstructed. The Petite Maison Blanc (little white house) stands alone at the top of a ragged rock wall. Miraculously, this was the only house to survive the flood of 1996. The Église Sacre-Coeur presides over the area with its sinle elegant silver steeple. Also of interest is the Abitibi-Consolidated Dam.

The historic Vieux Port offers a wide variety of activities and attractions. The works of local artists and crafts people are on display at the pARTerre. A public market, Halles du Marché, offers local produce and other locally-made products.

A beautiful park, the Zone Portuaire, stretches out along the river by the old port, on Rue Lafontaine. Fanciful fountains and statues of whales delight visitors and playgrounds give the younger set a place to let out some steam. From June to September the park hosts a number of outdoor entertainment programs. T: (418) 698-3025. Open May-June daily. Market open May-Sept. daily 9-9. The pARTerre is open late June through Sept. Wed.-Sun. 1-9. Admission is free.

For a relaxing way to see the city, take a Tour de Calèche, by the old port.

The imposing Cathédrale Saint-François-Xavier, 514 Rue Racine, stands watch over the old city and port. The cathedral, dating from 1915, has twin silver-topped towers and an imposing stone façade.

Perched high above the hill on the north shore of the river, La Croix de Sainte-Anne (9), on Rue de la Croix, is a reminder of the community's faith and commemorates the extensive fire of 1870 that destroyed most of the region, but left Chicoutimi standing. The location, at the top of Cap Saint-Joseph, offers sweeping views of the city and fjord. Open May-Oct. daily 7-9. Admission is free.

To the east lies Saint-Fulgence (10). Resting on the north shore of the Saguenay River, the town of Saint-Fulgence is committed to conservation and ecology. Sandbars weave along the river's edge, welcoming an array of waterfowl. Wood boardwalks and trails provide a place to stroll and take in the wildlife. The drive along Route 172, on either side of the village, presents panoramic views of the Saguenay River, the Fjord, and Mont Valin which rises high to the north of the town.

At the end of April each year, more than 10,000 Canadian geese stop to rest and feed along the shores of Saint-Fulgence during spring migration. This is a truly spectacular sight to see.

Sainte-Rose-du-Nord (11), founded in 1838, is a spectacular little village, wedged in a small valley between steep mountainsides and the Saguenay River. The charming haven has long been popular with artists and tourists who are attracted by the breathtaking views of the fjord and the peaceful beauty of the village. The wooden church is worth a look with its thematic décor honoring the forest. From the wharf, a 1½ mile hiking trail leads to a scenic overlook on the fjord.

The Musée de la Nature, 199 Rue de la Montagne, is an interesting and unique little museum that exudes a love for nature. The museum proudly displays some of the nature and wildlife found in the region, including tree burrs, wild mushrooms, butterflies, and the Canadian Lynx. Two sharks, which were pulled from the frozen Saguenay River at Saint-Rose-du-Nord, can be examined and touched. T: (418) 675-2348. Open year-round daily 8:30-9. Admission $5 for adults, $1 for children 6-13, children 5 and under are free.

Copyright © 2006 Karen Desrosiers

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