LONDON'S DOCKLANDS
Earl Steinbicker, Daytrips' chief sleuth, leads you on a do-it-yourself exploration of London's newest neighborhood. Taken from the pages of his guidebook Daytrips London, 7th edition, it has been updated in 2006 to reflect changes in this rapidly-developing part of town.
LONDON'S DOCKLANDS
To wander through London's newest neighborhood is to experience what may well be the future of cities around the globe. At least it's a possibility. For this is one urban area that appears to be really user-friendly, with plenty of amenities and colorful links with the past scattered among its gleaming high-rise, high-tech structures.
Once among the Earth's largest and most thriving ports, Docklands suffered terrible devastation during World War II. What the Luftwaffe didn't destroy was soon done in by modern technology. Container ships, those behemoths of the sea with their deep draft and wide berth, made the old docks obsolete, and shipping moved downriver to Tilbury.
By the late 1970s the unused docks were a sea of desolation, with mile after mile of abandoned buildings. Proximity to the crowded City of London's expanding trade, however, brought hope. In 1981 the London Docklands Development Corporation was formed to direct the largest urban renewal project in Europe. An amazing amount has been accomplished so far, as you will see. Many Londoners still consider Docklands to be out in the boondocks, situated far from the joys of the city, and littered with questionable architecture. Yet, considering the rot that was there and the economic realities of a City that had nowhere to expand, this seems a workable solution to making London into Europe's great financial center.
Along the walk you'll enjoy marvelous views of old Greenwich, amble through an actual farm, explore a stunning world of office towers and docks, wander the back alleys of mysterious Limehouse, stroll along the Thames to the world's first underwater tunnel, then follow a watery path to the urbane pleasures of St. Katherine Docks. And perhaps stop along the way at an historic pub.
GETTING THERE:
The Docklands Light Railway (DLR) provides the easiest access to all areas along the way. It connects with the London Underground at Bank station (Northern, Central, and Waterloo & City lines; also via a short tunnel from Monument station on the Circle and District lines), and at Tower Gateway (a short walk from the Tower Hill station on the Circle and District lines). London Underground tickets and passes are valid as long as they cover the correct zones. Service is very frequent on these modern, completely automated trains. Take the DLR to the Island Gardens stop, where the walk begins. For information T: (020) 7363-9700.
The Jubilee Line of the Underground now extends from Green Park via Westminster, Waterloo, and London Bridge to Canary Wharf in Docklands, and beyond.
Boats depart London's Westminster and other piers for Greenwich, where you can take the pedestrian tunnel under the Thames to Island Gardens.
For all transit information, including boats, contact Transport for London at T: (020) 7222-1234.
PRACTICALITIES:
Being a business center, Docklands is alive on Mondays through Fridays, and less so on weekends.
Although the suggested route is almost seven miles long, nearly all of it is paralleled by the Docklands Light Railway (DLR), which can be used to greatly reduce the walking distance. Since you'll probably be hopping on and off the DLR several times, and also using the Underground, you should begin the day by purchasing a daypass for the appropriate zones. This will save both time and money.
For current information on the web, visit Canary Wharf, East London, or Tower Hamlets.
FOOD AND DRINK:
There are plenty of modern restaurants and pubs in this rapidly developing area. Fortunately, several historic riverside pubs from the old days survive, offering good food and drink with a view.
1802 (in the Museum in Docklands) Modern British cuisine, from snacks to full meals. A good-value lunch deal is offered on weekdays. T: (0870) 444-3886. £, ££ and £££
Tabla (Dockmaster's House, Hertsmere Rd., at west end of West India Quay, a quarter-mile northwest of Canary Wharf) Modern Indian cuisine in a smart setting. X: Sun., Sat. lunch. T: (020) 7345-0345. ££ and £££
Tai Pan (665 Commercial Rd., near Limehouse Basin) A family-run Chinese restaurant in London's original Chinatown. X: Fri. lunch, Sat. lunch. T: (020) 7791-0118. ££
The Grapes (76 Narrow St., on the Thames, east of Limehouse Basin) An historic Victorian pub downstairs, a good fish rrestaurant above, both overlooking the Thames. Real ale. T: (020) 7987-4396. £ and ££
Prospect of Whitby (57 Wapping Wall, on the Thames by Shadwell Basin) This very popular, historic restaurant and pub has been around since 1520. A London landmark. T: (020) 7481-1095. £ and ££
Dickens Inn (St. Katherine Docks) A pub and restaurant in an 18th-century warehouse, with indoor and outdoor tables overlooking the marina. Traditional English food and real ale. T: (020) 7488-2208. £ and ££
You might also consider taking the pedestrian tunnel (or riding the DLR) from Island Gardens to Greenwich, which has many places for lunch.
SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
CLICK ON MAP FOR LARGE, PRINTABLE IMAGE.
Begin at the Island Gardens Station (1) of the Docklands Light Railway, now extending south under the Thames to Greenwich and beyond, connecting with British Rail. This entire area, enclosed by a loop in the River Thames, is known as the Isle of Dogs after the animals that Henry VIII kept there when he lived across the river. Stroll along the adjacent waterside park for gorgeous *views of the Royal Naval College in Greenwich.
A curious domed structure near the water's edge is actually the entrance to the Greenwich Foot Tunnel, opened in 1902 and reached vis lifts at either end. Since It'll only take a few minutes, you might want to amble over for a quick look at Greenwich, and fir its view of Docklands.
Turning north, you can either walk or take the DLR to the strange and completely unexpected Mudchute Farm (2). A farm in London? In the very shadow of skyscrapers? Yes, indeed. This bit of rural bliss grew out of the allotment gardens of World War I, established atop the river dredgings pumped there when the Millwall Docks were first created in the 19th century. Today, visitors can wander among the sheep, cattle, pigs, and other animals, and in the adjacent public park, always enjoying great panoramic views. Just follow the path in from East Ferry Road. T: (020) 7515-5901. Open daily 9-4. Free.
Continue north on foot or by DLR to Crossharbour (3). Across the street stands the gleaming London Arena, a sports and convention center of 1989 that's huge enough for indoor soccer matches. Stroll behind it for a good view of Millwall Docks, now lined with an appealing mix of the old and the new.
Docklands' most notable project to date is undoubtedly *Canary Wharf (4), scenically reached by following the route shown on the map, or more easily by riding the DLR. Its main building, completed in 1991 and at 800 feet the tallest in Britain, is the Tower at One Canada Square. As the jewel in the crown of England's "Wall-Street-upon-Thames," this is a magnificent structure, surrounded by architecturally impressive neighbors. The old West India Docks provide attractive breathing space between the buildings.
Explore the public areas of the complex adjacent to the DLR Canary Wharf station, then amble over to the new:
*MUSEUM IN DOCKLANDS (5), T: (0870) 444-3856. Open Mon.-Sat. 10-5:50, Sun. noon-5:50. Closed Dec. 24-26, Jan. 1. ££. Gift shop. Café, restaurant.
Located in a wonderful late Georgian warehouse on West India Quay, the museum traces the history of the region with both traditional displays and interactive multimedia technologies, all spread over five stories and 12 major galleries, in addition to various boats outside.
From here you can either make the longish trek by foot to the next attraction, or ride the DLR to its Limehouse stop. However you get there, the area around the old Limehouse Basin (6) is a relief after the Isle of Dogs' severe modernity. Opened in 1812 as the London terminus of the still-functioning Grand Union Canal, the basin is now used for water sports. It flows into the Thames through locks at Narrow Street, where the original 19th-century dockmaster's house is now the colorful Barley Mow pub. At one time Limehouse had a substantial Chinese population and acquired a largely fictional reputation for vice, being sensationalized by the popular press as a land of opium dens, and worse. Those days are long gone; today's inhabitants are more likely to be young stockbrokers from Canary Wharf.
Head west along the river, making occasional inland forays to avoid inaccessible spots, to Shadwell Basin (7). One of the few remaining remnants of the former 27-acre London Docks of 1805, Shadwell is now surrounded by modern housing and used for water sports. Nearby, the Prospect of Whitby pub overlooks the river as it has since 1520 — when it was known as the Devil's Tavern on account of the low-life thieves who drank there. Other customers included Samuel Pepys, Dickens, and Turner.
Continue down Wapping Wall, a narrow street lined with historic warehouses successfully converted into atmospheric residential and commercial units. Wapping High Street leads west to Wapping Dock (8), close to the old Execution Dock from which Captain Kidd and other pirates were hanged. From the corner of Wapping Lane you can make an easy and unusual side trip. The world's first public underwater tunnel was completed here in 1843, and used by pedestrians until 1865. Since then it has carried Underground trains beneath the Thames, as it does today. Pop into Wapping Station and ride the East London line to Rotherhithe, then stroll north to the river. Brunel's Engine House (9) originally pumped water out of the tunnel, and is now a small museum celebrating this early feat of civil engineering. It's seldom open, but the old streets around it are well worth exploring anyway.
Back at Wapping, head north on Wapping Lane to Tobacco Dock (10). Built in 1814 with massive vaults to store tobacco, liquor, and wine, this was once part of the now-filled-in London Docks. Surviving today as an upscale shopping center, it is beautifully situated on restored canals.
Following these waterways west brings you to the St. Katherine Docks (11), opened in 1825 and now heavily used by pleasure craft. This is the end of the walk; a perfect place for a well-earned rest at one of its colorful pubs. Just beyond the docks is the Tower Bridge, the Tower of London, and the Tower Hill Station of the Underground.
Copyright © 2002 Earl Steinbicker. Updated to 2006 for this site.
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I stumbled upon this site as I was doing some online research. I was quite intrigued by these tour directions and hope, in ever in that neck of the woods, as they say, to take advantage of your fine suggestions.
Posted by: panasianbiz | July 19, 2006 at 11:40 AM