Scotland's Stirling

British author Judith Frances Duddle guides us on an easy one-day, do-it-yourself trip from either Edinburgh or Glasgow, taken directly from her book Daytrips Scotland & Wales. That's her on the right. More of Judith's writings can be found right here by clicking Travel in Britain under categories on the right column.

STIRLING...a great castle linking Scotland's Highlands and Lowlands

Stirling has been described as a "huge brooch clasping the Highlands and Lowlands together." Whoever held Stirling Castle, controlled the Scottish nation. Although the site was probably inhabited by Ancient Britons and possibly later by Romans and even, according to legend, by King Arthur, the earliest known record of a castle here dates from the 12th century. This was taken by the English in 1296 and recaptured by the great Scottish hero William Wallace after the Battle of Stirling Bridge.

From the ramparts of Stirling Caste, the sites of no less than seven Scottish battles can be seen. It's hardly surprising then, given the history of the castle, that Stirling means "Place of Strife."

This trip can easily be combined in the same day with one to Linlithhow as they are both on the same rail line.

GETTING THERE:

Trains leave Edinburgh's Waverley Station every 25 minutes for the 50-minute run to Stirling.

Trains depart Glasgow's Queen Street Station frequently for the 40-minute ride to Stirling.

By Car from Edinburgh, take the A8, A71, M8, M9, and A91 roadways to Stirling, a distance of 39 miles.

By Car from Glasgow, the quickest route to Stirling is via the A8, M80, A80, and A91 roads. The total distance is 29 miles.

PRACTICALITIES:

There are two ports of call for information in Stirling, the first Tourist Information Centre is based at 41 Dumbarton Road, T: (08707) 200-620, and the second is located at the Royal Burgh of Stirling Visitor Centre, Castle Esplanade T: (08707) 200-622. Striling's population is 37,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Sportsters Sports Bar and Diner (52-54 King St.) American food served in a lively bar and restaurant. T: (01786) 409-000. £ and ££

Golden Lion Milton Hotel (8 King St.) A full restaurant with Scottish food, set in an historic building. T: (0808) 100-5556. £ and ££

Portcullis Hotel (Castle Wynd, near the castle) An old pub that goes well back into Stirling's history. Full restaurant and bar meals. T: (01786) 472-290. £ and ££

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

CLICK ON MAP FOR LARGE PRINTABLE IMAGE.

Leave the train station (1) and follow the map around the Thistle Shopping Centre, then turn right on King Street, soon becoming Spittal Street. The continuation of this, St. John Street, leads uphill past some old houses to the interesting Church of the Holy Rood (6) and the Old Town Jail, which you can visit later.

For the moment, turn right on Castle Wynd and stroll uphill to Argyll's Lodging (2). This is the finest and most complete surviving 17th-century townhouse in Scotland. It was built by Sir William Alexander, the Principal Secretary for Scotland and founder of the Scottish Colony of Nova Scotia in the New World. When this was ceded to the French in 1632, Sir William turned his interests southward and took possession of parts of Maine and all of Long Island, which he intended to rename Isle of Stirlinge. Fortunately for New Yorkers this did not happen and Sir William died heavily in debt. His coat-of-arms, above the main entrance, depicts an Indian, a beaver, and a mermaid. The house later passed to the Earl of Argyll, thus the name. T: (01786) 431-319, Open April-Sept., daily 9:30-6; Oct.-March, daily 9:30-5. £.

Continue uphill to the Royal Burgh of Stirling Visitor Centre (3), where you will discover the story of Royal Stirling from the Wars of Independence through life in the medieval burgh to the present day, with the aid of a multilingual audiovisual show. Also housed here is one of the Tourist Information Centres. T: (01786) 462-517. Open April-June & Sept., daily 9:30-6; July-Aug., daily 9-6:30; Nov.-March, daily 9:30-5. Closed Dec. 25-26, Jan. 1. Free.

Straight from here you can wander up to:

*STIRLING CASTLE (4), T: (01786) 450-000. Open April-Sept., daily 9:30-6; Oct.-March, daily 9:30-5. ££.

The castle is mounted high on an old volcanic outcrop, with historical records showing that it was first built in between 1370 and 1750. The attractions include the restored Great Hall and a medieval kitchen reconstruction. Be sure to explore the battlements, especially Lady's Hole Terrace, which has some fabulous views.

Now follow the map down steps and around the Back Walk to the Guildhall (5), a lovely 17th-century almshouse for "decayed breithers," as unsuccessful merchants were called. Next to this is the Church of the Holy Rood (6), a medieval church dating from the 15th century. This is where the infant James VI (son of Mary Queen of Scots and James I) was crowned in 1567 and where John Knox preached the sermon. T: (01786) 475-275. Open May-Sept., daily 10-5. Free.

Turning left behind the apse of the church brings you to the remains of a Renaissance palace, commissioned by the Earl of Mar in 1570. The building work was never completed and later became a workhouse for vagrants. During a siege of the castle in 1746 it was badly damaged, but the intriguing façade was left standing to serve as a windbreak.

Now stroll down St. John Street where you will find the Old Town Jail (7). The jail paints a frightening picture of what it would have been like to be imprisoned in the 1800s. As you walk around the dingy corridors inspecting the cells, you can soak up the atmosphere of jail life — creaking hinges, a shuffle of feet, an eerie silence. Without warning you may even witness an attempted jailbreak! (Don't worry, it isn't a ghost, just an actor giving one of his "Living History Performances"). T: (01786) 450-050. Open April-Sept., daily 9:30-6; Oct. and March, daily 9:30-5; Nov.-Feb., daily 9:30-4. £. From here you can follow the map back to the train and bus stations.

ADDITIONAL ATTRACTION:

You should not visit Stirling without seeing the famous battlefield of Bannockburn. From the bus station, located next to the train station, catch the Guide Friday Bus, which runs every 40 minutes starting at 9:55 a.m. for the 2-mile journey to Glasgow Road, and the Bannockburn Heritage Centre (8). The Battle of Bannockburn was undoubtedly one of the most spectacular battles of the Scottish Wars of Independence. Although the struggle against the English was to continue for some 13 years more, the Scottish victory was of enormous importance as it secured the future of the throne for Robert Bruce, King of Scots. At the centre, attractions include an audiovisual presentation of the battle, an informative "Kingdom of the Scots" exhibition and a striking equestrian statue of King Robert. T: (01786) 812-664. Site open all year. Heritage Centre and Shop oopen April-Oct., 10-5:30; March and Nov.-Dec. 23, 10:30-4. Last audiovisual half an hour before closing. Hertitage Centre & Shop (incl. audiovisual) £.

Copyright © 2004 Judith Frances Duddle.

CHECK OUT Daytrips Scotland & Wales on the web by clickin on its title in the box below, or the Buy button to purchase.

BROWSE through the pages of Daytrips Scotland & Wales and our other books at Google Books, just as you would in a bookstore. Enter book title in the search field.