This easy daytrip from Frankfurt is taken directly from the pages of our travel guidebook Daytrips in Germany's Rhineland. Print it out and take it with you on your next trip to Frankfurt. Enjoy!
Trip 18
Miltenberg
If a contest were held to choose the most beautiful small town in Germany, Miltenberg would certainly be among the top contenders. Its market place is so astonishingly picturesque that it seems to belong to another world — or a long-forgotten dream.
The Romans had a camp here in the 2nd century AD as part of their great defensive wall called the Limes. Around 1200 a castle was begun by the archbishop of Mainz to protect the growing trading post that connected the Rhine-Main area with an overland route to the Danube. The town prospered during the Middle Ages, changed hands several times and ultimately, in 1816, was annexed to Bavaria. Much of old Miltenberg, including its castle, has survived intact to delight us today. A visit here could be combined in the same day with one to Aschaffenburg.
GETTING THERE:
Trains depart Frankfurt's main station several times in the morning for Aschaffenburg, where you connect to a local for Miltenberg. The total trip takes a bit over 1½ hours, with return service until early evening.
By Car, Miltenberg is about 80 km (50 miles) southeast of Frankfurt. Take the A-3 Autobahn to Stockstadt, then head south on the B-469.
PRACTICALITIES:
Visits to Miltenberg should be made from May through October, on any day except Mondays — when the sights are closed. The local Tourist Information Office, T: (09371) 404-119, W: miltenberg.info, is in the Town Hall on Engelplatz. Miltenberg has a population of about 9,700.
FOOD AND DRINK:
The town is very popular with German tourists, and so offers a good choice of restaurants. Among the best are:
Altes Bannhaus (Hauptstr. 211, a block west of the Marktplatz) Excellent dining in an historic building with an arched cellar. T: (09371) 30-61. X: Thurs. €€€
Jagd-Hotel Rose ( Hauptstr. 280, 4 blocks west of St.-Jakobus Church) In a 17th-century house overlooking the river; outdoor tables available. T: (09371) 400-60. X: Sun. eve., Mon. lunch. €€€
Mildenburg (Mainstr. 77, 2 blocks west of St.-Jakobus Church) Facing the river, with outdoor tables available. T: (09371) 27-33. X: Mon. € and €€
Anker (Hauptstr. 31, near the Franciscan Church) Good-value meals at a small inn. T: (09371) 24-24. €
SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
Leaving the Train Station (1), follow Brückenstrasse and cross the bridge spanning the Main. Hour-long Boat Trips are offered nearby, T: (09371) 3330, W: reederei-henneberger.de. Turn right and stroll along the water's edge, then make a left to the *Marktplatz (Market Place). One of the most beautiful sights in Germany, this open square is lined with an amazing array of half-timbered houses (Fachwerkhäuser). The Renaissance fountain in its center dates from 1683, while on the left is the Town Museum (2), located in the former 16th-century seat of administration. Step inside for a look at the town's history and traditional folk arts. T: (09371) 404-153, W: museum-mildenburg.de. Open May through Oct., Tues.-Sun. 10-5:30; Nov.-April, Wed.-Sun. 11-4. €.
Now walk uphill through the old town walls to the Mildenburg Castle (3), a medieval stronghold built between the 13th and 16th centuries. The view from its tower is spectacular and well worth the climb. In the courtyard you will find the fascinating Toutonenstein, a carved stone monument from early Germanic times. The castle may be visited from May through Oct., Tues.-Fri. 2-5:30; Sat., Sun., holidays 1-5:30. €.
Descend the hill via the other path and return to the market place. On its north side stands the 14th-century Pfarrkirche St.-Jakobus (St. James' Parish Church) (4), which contains several splendid works of art. The twin towers were added in 1830.
The Hauptstrasse is lined with an impressive variety of old buildings, many of which are half-timbered. Walk part the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall), a 14th-century stone structure, and continue on to the Gasthaus zun Riesen (5). Claiming to be Germany's oldest inn, its guest register reads like a Who's Who of European history. The present structure dates from 1590, but some questionable documents seem to show that the inn was doing business since the 12th century and has sheltered Frederick Barbarossa and other greats. In any case, it's a nice place to stay, or just stop for a beer.
Just beyond this is the Engelplatz, where the tourist office is located in the town hall. The Baroque 17th-century Franciscan Church (6), on its north side, is a worthwhile stop before spending the rest of your time poking around the narrow alleyways that add so much interest to this ancient town.
Copyright © 2007, 2009 Earl Steinbicker
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