First published in 1984 and now in its sixth edition, Daytrips Germany has long been a favorite guidebook for independent travelers. A major revamp is scheduled for the 2007 travel season, with new maps and a new cover design. CLICK HERE for a free sample chapter on Berchtesgaden and the Königssee from that new edition. Enjoy!
Bremen, Germany
Here is a complete chapter from our bestselling guidebook, Daytrips Germany by Earl Steinbicker. It takes you on a daytrip from Hamburg to one of Germany's most remarkable cities, a seaport with a true zest for life. Save it, print it out, and use it on your next trip to Europe. Enjoy!
Standing defiantly in Bremen's market place is a tall statue of the valiant knight Roland. With sword drawn, he stares at the medieval cathedral opposite, as he has done since 1404. His bearing summarizes the attitude of most Bremers. These are a people who do not like to be told what to do — not by the Church, not by the government, not by anyone. Still calling itself the Free Hanseatic City of Bremen, this ancient seaport has its own parliament and is, in fact, Germany's smallest self-governing state.
Bremen's history goes back at least 1,200 years. In 787, during the reign of Charlemagne, it was made the seat of a bishop. Already a major shipping center, the growing town joined the Hanseatic League in 1358. Along with Hamburg and Lübeck, it virtually controlled northern trade and grew very rich as a result. Further independence came in 1646 when Bremen became a Free Imperial City, and later a sovereign city-state.
Despite its size, Bremen is an eminently walkable city. Just about everything of interest lies in the compact area between the train station and the river, while the fascinating docks can be seen at closeup range on a boat tour.
GETTING THERE:
Trains, mostly of the IC class or slightly slower Metronom class, depart Hamburg's main station at least hourly for the under-one-hour run to Bremen. Many of these may also be boarded a few minutes earlier at Hamburg's Altona or Damtor stations. Click here for schedules.
By Car, Bremen is 119 km (74 miles) southwest of Hamburg via the A-7 and A-1 Autobahns. There are several parking lots behind the train station.
PRACTICALITIES:
The best time to visit Bremen is from April through October, when the harbor tour operates. Most of the museums are closed on Mondays. The local Tourist Information Office (Bremer Touristik-Zentrale), T: (01805) 101-030 (toll call) is at the train station. There is also a branch in the square by the Liebfrauenkirche. Those staying overnight might save money with the EntdeckerCARD, which covers local transportation plus entry to museums and attractions throughout northwest Germany. Ask about it at the tourist office. Bremen has a population of about 550,000.
FOOD AND DRINK:
In a city famous for good food, some choice restaurants are:
Flett (Böttcherstr. 3, across from the Roselius House) Classic German dishes in an inviting setting. T: (0421) 320-995. €€€
Ratskeller (in the Rathaus) Over 600 German wines (but no beers!) are available in this centuries-old bastion of traditional North German cuisine. T: (0421) 321-676. €€ and €€€
Becks in'n Snoor (Im Schnoor 34, in the Schnoor District) A wide variety of dishes in this three-story brewery tavern. T: (0421) 323-130. €€ and €€€
Friesenhof (Hinter dem Schütting 12, a block northeast of the Roselius House) A brewery restaurant with hearty meat dishes in the Frisian tradition. T: (0421) 337-66-66. €€
Alte Gilde (Ansgaritorstr. 24, by the Gewerbehaus) Good-value lunches in the vaulted cellar of an historic house. T: (0421) 171-712. X: Sun. € and €€
Bratwurstglo'ck'l (Liebfrauenkirchhof, by the Rathaus) Grilled sausages and drinks at an open-air pavilion. €
SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
While at the Main Train Station (Hauptbahnhof) (1), visit the tourist office to confirm times for the town hall and harbor tours. Continue straight ahead and cross the old city moat. Until the early 19th century, Bremen was surrounded on three sides by defensive bastions — since replaced by lovely gardens and waterways.
Stroll down Sögestrasse, a pedstrians-only shopping street, past a charming group of bronze pigs that children love to play on. At the end bear left to the 13th-century Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) (2). A delightful flower market is held each morning along its outer walls.
Just a few more steps and you are in one of Europe's most beautiful squares, the *Marktplatz (photo, above). To the left stands the elegant:
*RATHAUS (Town Hall) (3), T: (0421) 361-0. Tours Mon.-Sat. at 11, noon, 3, and 4; and on Sun. at 11 and noon. €. Tickets sold at either tourist office location. No tours when hall is in use.
The Town Hall dramatically proclaims the wealth of Old Bremen. Originally built in 1409, it was given a magnificent new façade in the Weser Renaissance style during the early 17th century. On its west side, near the church, you will find a statue (photo, left) of the Bremen Town Musicians — a donkey, dog, cat, and cock who figured in the famous fairytale by the Brothers Grimm.
Enter the Town Hall and take the 45-minute guided tour of its Upper Hall, the richest interior in this affluent city. The splendid spiral staircase of 1620, Renaissance decorations, and wonderful models of early sailing ships are its main attractions.
A huge *statue of the knight Roland, symbol of Bremen's independence, stands proudly in the market square. Since 1404 he has guarded its citizens against encroachment by the Church or anyone else who would attempt to rule them. Roland was obviously successful at this task, for his face wears a smile of self-satisfaction.
St.-Petri Dom (St. Peter's Cathedral) (4) towers over the square. Begun in 1042, it occupies the site of an earlier church built in 787 at the request of Charlemagne. Be sure to see its oldest parts, the crypts, and especially the Bleikeller (Lead Cellar), which contains nine curiously preserved corpses dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries. There is also a small museum of artifacts and a tower that may be climbed. The cathedral closes on Saturday at 2, and is closed on Sunday mornings.
The ugly modern structure next to the cathedral is Bremen's own parliament. To the right of it is the Schütting, a 16th-century merchants' guildhall in the Flemish style.
Now stroll down to the famous *Böttcherstrasse, a crowded narrow passage teeming with visual excitement, whose stylish entrance is pictured on the left. Once a tradesmen's alleyway, it was transformed during the 1920s into an idealistic art center by the wealthy coffee merchant Ludwig Roselius, who had invented decaffeinated coffee in 1907. A porcelein carillon in the tiny square to your left plays tunes each hour from noon to 6 p.m. (noon, 3, and 6 p.m. from January through April). Adjoining this, at number 6, is the:
ROSELIUS HOUSE (5), T: (0421) 336-50-77. Both sites open Tues.-Sun., 11-6. €.
This 16th-century mansion is filled with masterpieces of North German art and period furniture. Its connects internally with the adjacent Paula Becker-Modersohn House, a museum dedicated to the early Expressionist painter who worked in the Bremen area, along with pieces by the Expressionist designer Bernhard Hoetger.
Continuing along Böttcherstrasse, you will pass other buildings of the development, some of which house shops, restaurants, cafés, and even a gambling casino. The overall style is a strange blend of Gothic and Jugendstil (German Art Nouveau), an overpowering combination rarely encountered.
Stroll down to the Martini Dock (6), where you can take a fascinating 75-minute *cruise (Hafenrundfahrt) of Germany's second-largest harbor. Boats operate from April through October, departing daily at 11:45 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 3:15 p.m. From May through September there are also departures at 10:15 a.m. and 4:45 p.m. T: (0421) 338-989. €€.
When you return, take a look at the unusual 13th-century Martinikirche (St. Martin's Church), just a few steps to the northwest. It is noted for its organ of 1619, its modern stained-glass windows, and its tower carillon. Just steps from this is the Schlachte Embankment, a riverside promenade with various attractions and cafés.
Then follow the map to the *Schnoor District (7), which was home to Bremen's fishermen since the late Middle Ages. Little changed over the past three centuries, it has been restored and is now inhabited by craftsmen and artists. Wander down its main alleyway, Im Schnoor, and explore the labyrinth of narrow passageways and tiny squares that cut off to the sides. The area is filled, as you might expect, with cafés, restaurants, galleries, and boutiques.
While in the area, you might want to visit the:
KUNSTHALLE (Art Museum) (8), T: (0421) 329-080. Open Tues. 10-9, Wed.-Sun. 10-5. €.
The collections here are particularly rich in Old Masters, French Impressionists, and works by modern German painters, spanning the period from the 15th century to the present. Artists represented include Delacroix, Liebermann, Corinth, Modersohn-Becker, and Beckmann. There are also numerous graphics by Dürer, Goya, Picasso, and many others.
Now return to the Marktplatz and head down Langenstrasse. Note the magnificent Stadtwaage (9), a weights-and-measures office erected in 1587. A right on Grosse Waagestrasse leads to Obernstrasse, a pedestrians-only shopping street. Turn left and then make a right on Ansgaritorstrasse, passing the 17th-century Gewerbehaus (10), once a retail merchants' guildhall. Beyond the busy thoroughfare, Am Wall, lie the peaceful gardens that replaced the former fortifications. Stroll along the pathway to the last Windmill (11) in the Old Town. From here it is only a short walk to the:
ÜBERSEEMUSEUM (Overseas Museum) (12), T: (0421) 1603-8101. Open Tues.-Fri. 9-6, Sat.-Sun. 10-6. €.
This museum features interesting displays of exotic cultures and world trade. Among the exhibits are re-creations of a Japanese garden, South Sea huts, temples, native fishing boats, and a Chinese house. The train station is right next to this.
ADDITIONAL SIGHTS:
Universum Science Center, a spectacular hands-on museum of scientific discovery focusing on Earth, Mankind, and Space. Wiener Strasse 2, T: (0421) 334-60. Get there by tram line 6 or bus 305 to Universtät NW1. Open Mon.-Fri. 9-6, Sat., Sun., holidays 10-7. €€€.
Bremen, Centre of Aerospace Technology is the name of a guided tour through Bremen's thriving aerospace industry. Lasting two hours, it should be booked in advance from the tourist office at the train station or Liebfrauenkirche square. T: (01805) 101-030 (toll call). Departs from the departure lounge of the Bremen Airport, reached by tram 6. Tours on Fri. at 5; Sat. at 11, 1, and 3; Sun. at 11:30. In Jan.-Feb. tours on Sat. only. Proper ID (passport) needed.
Copyright © 2002 Earl Steinbicker. Updated to Aug. 2006, with new photos and map.
CHECK OUT Daytrips Germany at Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble, or Hastings House. BROWSE through its pages at Google Books.
First published in 1984 and now in its sixth edition, Daytrips Germany has long been a favorite guidebook for independent travelers. A major revamp is scheduled for the 2007 travel season, with new maps and a new cover design. Here is a free sample chapter on Berchtesgaden and the Königssee from that new edition. Enjoy!
Click on underlined entries for web links.
Berchtesgaden is one of the most popular resorts in Germany, and with good reason. Few places in the country offer such spectacular mountain scenery, and none have anything that equals the sublime beauty of its lake, the Königssee. Then there is the town itself, whose old castle and fascinating salt mines are certainly worth more than a detour. But, ironically, to many people the area is known only for its association with Adolf Hitler and his gang, who held court there during the short span of the Third Reich. That dreadful era is long since over, and Berchtesgaden has survived with all of its natural splendors intact.
The only problem with a daytrip to Berchtesgaden is that it requires some hard choices — you can't possibly see everything in the time available. The best solution, of course, is to stay overnight or longer, remembering that the town makes an excellent base for excursions to Bad Reichenhall, the Chiemsee, or even Salzburg in Austria.
GETTING THERE:
Trains depart Munich's main station almost hourly for the nearly three-hour trip to Berchtesgaden. A change at Freilassing is probably necessary, except that in some cases you change in Salzburg to a bus. Click here for online schedules, remembering to click on English, and to enter Muenchen for Munich.
Buses depart Salzburg's main station for the 45-minute ride to Berchtesgaden. It is also possible, but slower, to go by train, changing at Freilassing.
By Car, Berchtesgaden is 155 km (96 miles) southeast of Munich via the A-8 Autobahn to the Bad Reichenhall exit, then the B-20 road. From Salzburg, it's only 23 km (14 miles) to the southwest on routes 150, 160, and the B-305 in Germany.
PRACTICALITIES:
The period between mid-May and mid-October is the best time to visit Berchtesgaden. Good weather will make the trip much more enjoyable, but you should still bring along a sweater or jacket if you visit the salt mines or the Eagle's Nest.
The local Tourist Information Office, T: (08652) 967-150, is just across the bridge from the train station. Berchtesgaden has a permanent population of about 8,200.
FOOD AND DRINK:
IN TOWN:
Restaurant im Kurhaus (Maximilianstr. 9, by the Kurgarten) Good-value meals, especially the daily specials. T: (08652) 948-755. €€
Post (Maximilianstr. 2, near the Kurgarten) A small hotel with a beer garden and a good restaurant. T: (08652) 50-67. €€
Goldener Bär (Weihnachtsschützenstr. 4, just west of the Kurgarten) Simple, traditional Bavarian dishes. T: (08652) 25-90. €
THE KÖNIGSSEE area has several tourist restaurants between the bus stop, the lake, and the Malerwinkel.
ON THE OBERSALZBERG:
Kehlsteinhaus (in the Eagle's Nest) Food and drink in a mountain aerie overlooking the world. T: (08652) 29-69. €€
SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the two maps.
CLICK ON THE MAP FOR A LARGER VIEW.
The three do-it-yourself tours described here all begin at the centrally-located Train Station (Bahnhof) (1). You will only have time to do two of these in one single day.
THE TOWN:
Leave the Train Station (1) and follow the map uphill to the Kurgarten (2), a delightful little park with lovely views. Continue on through a colorful pedestrians-only area, passing the old market place, and walk under a passageway into the Schlossplatz (3). This picturesque square is lined on its western side with 16th-century arches.
The Stiftskirche (Abbey Church), on the eastern side, dates from 1122 and is well worth a visit for its fine works of art. 
Directly adjacent to it is the Schloss (Castle), originally built as an Augustinian monastery. In 1803 this was secularized and afterwards used as a summer residence for Bavaria's ruling family, the Wittelsbachs. One of their descendants, Crown Prince Rupprecht, who had a tenuous (very tenuous) claim to the British throne through his maternal Stuart ancestors, lived here until his death in 1955. Its marvelous interiors are open to the public, and its sumptuous collection of art and furnishings are shown on guided tours lasting about an hour. T: (08652) 947-980. Open mid-May to mid-Oct., Sun.-Fri. 10-1 and 2-5; mid-Oct. to mid-May, Sun.-Fri. 11-2. Closed holidays in the off-season. €€.
A highlight of any trip to Berchtesgaden is a tour through the salt mines, which can be reached on foot via Bräuhausstrasse and Bergwerkstrasse:
*SALZBERGWERK (Salt Mines) (4), T: (08652) 649-71. Open mid-May to mid-Oct., daily 9-5; rest of year, daily except Sun. and holidays, 12:30-3:30. Tours €€€.
In operation since 1517, the mines were the original source of wealth for the priory, and are still in active use today. Visitors are loaned traditional miners' clothes for protection against the cold and damp environment; then loaded aboard a motorized cart for the dark, eerie, half-mile-long journey into the bowels of the earth. Different parts of the subterranean excavations are reached via exciting downhill slides and a boat ride across an underground lake. About 60 minutes later you willreturn to the outer world on another little tram. From here it is a little over a mile back to the station.
*KÖNIGSSEE:
Buses to the Königssee leave frequently from the front of the Train Station (1). Those with cars will, of course, ride the two-and-a-half-mile distance, while the more ambitious can walk along a footpath following the stream.
Many people consider the *Königssee (5) to be the most enchanting lake in Germany, if not in all of Europe. It can be explored on one of the silent electric boats or by walking out to the Malerwinkel. Ideally, you should do both. From the bus stop or parking lot it is only a short stroll to the village, which is rather touristy but well hidden from the main part of the lake.
A path from here leads to the left and follows the lake's contours to the *Malerwinkel (Painters' Corner) (6), a tranquil spot of astonishing beauty. About one-half mile from the village, it is the end of the trail — beyond which the mountains plunge vertically into the dark and mysterious waters.
Boats leave frequently from the village for the two-hour round-trip ride to St. Bartholomä and beyond. Those making the longer trip should get off at the end and take a ten-minute walk to the Obersee, once a part of the Königssee that was cut off by an avalanche eight centuries ago. The Chapel of St. Bartholomä (7) (photo, above), at the foot of the Watzmann, Germany's second-highest peak, is a scene right out of a fairy tale. Bayerische Seen Schifffahrt, T: (08652) 963-618. Operates year-round except when the lake is frozen. Roundtrips €€€.
When you've had your fill of natural splendor, return to the village and take the bus back to the Berchtesgaden station.
EAGLE'S NEST:
A visit to Hitler's alpine aerie begins by taking a bus to Obersalzberg-Hintereck, or by driving there — a distance of two and a half steep miles. Buses (marked Kehlstein) leave at about half-hour intervals until late afternoon from the front of the post office next to the train station (1), or you might consider a guided tour in English departing from the tourist office — ask them about current schedules. There is also a cable car from the Bergwerkstrasse in Berchtesgaden, but this involves a walk of about a mile and a half from its upper station to Obersalzberg-Hintereck.
Adolf Hitler lived on the Obersalzberg Plateau (8) on and off from 1923 until 1933, when he began construction there on his permanent home, the Berghof. Other Nazi leaders followed suit, and by World War II the area was a highly developed complex of party and military buildings linked by underground tunnels. For obvious reasons, much of this was demolished after the war. While there, you might consider gaining a better understanding of what went on here by visiting the:
OBERSALZBERG DOCUMENTATION CENTER (8), T: (08652) 947-966. Open April-Oct., Tues.-Sun. 9-5; Nov.-March, Tues.-Sun. 10-4. Closed Mon. and major holidays. €.
The dramatic story of Hitler and his Nazis in the Berchtesgaden area is documented with artifacts, photos, and explanatory displays in this new (and some would say brave) exhibition operated by the Bavarian State Government. It even lets you see some of the underground tunnels that linked elements of the regime.
One famous structure of that era that does remain is Hitler's hideaway, the Kehlsteinhaus, often called the Eagle's Nest (9). Located on a rocky crag high above the compound, it can only be reached by a special bus that departs frequently from the Obersalzberg-Hintereck parking lot. Other vehicles are not allowed on the steep and dangerous road. Upon arrival, you should make return reservations, then enter a tunnel and take the small brass elevator up through the rocks to the Eagle's Nest.
Seldom used by the Führer, this retreat was allowed to survive and is now a restaurant and café. Stroll out to the crest beyond for a fabulous view of the Alps. The Eagle's Nest can be visited daily between mid-May and mid-Oct., but is closed the rest of the year because of weather. Fares: €€€, buses run from 8-4.
Copyright © 2002 Earl Steinbicker.
Daytrips Germany is available from Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble, Hastings House, or Booksurge. Its pages may be browsed online at Google Books.
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