Hastings House & Us

Gloucester, England

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GLOUCESTER

Always an appealing place, the ancient river port of Gloucester is even more enticing since its decaying docks were transformed into a modern tourist attraction. Once-decrepit warehouses and quays now house the marvelous National Waterways Museum, while other Victorian industrial structures became museums, cafés, antique shops, and a shopping centre. Equally attractive is the 11th-century cathedral with its delightfully cluttered interior, fan-vaulted cloisters, and Perpendicular tower. The surrounding neighborhood preserves a bygone charm that is among the most inviting in England.

Gloucester's Roman origins are obvious from its street layout. Glevum, as it was then called, was founded during the 1st century AD to protect the lowest practical crossing of the River Severn, and later used as a colony for retired Roman soldiers. During the Middle Ages it became an important place with frequent visits by royalty. Later a major industrial and shipping centre, Gloucester is today being discovered by tourists looking for new sites to explore. Its name, incidentally, is pronounced "Glo'ster."

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart London's Paddington Station several times in the morning for the under-two-hour ride to Gloucester. Some are direct expresss trains, but others require a change at Swindon or Bristol Parkway. The route takes you through the scenic Cotswolds. CLICK HERE for current schedules, entering London Paddington as your departure point.

By Car, Gloucester is 106 miles (170 km) west of London. Take the M4 to Junction 15 at Swindon, then the A419 to Cirencester and the A417 into Gloucester.

PRACTICALITIES:

Gloucester's major attractions are open daily, but lesser ones close on Sundays and/or Mondays. Boat trips around the harbor are offered from Easter to October. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01452) 396-572, is at 28 Southgate Street in the center of town. Gloucester is the county town of Gloucestershire, and has a population of about 114,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

There are several inexpensive tourist restaurants and pubs near the cathedral and around the docks. Among your best choices are:

Cathedral Coffee Shop (in the cathedral cloisters) Light lunches and snacks. £

Dick Whittington's (100 Westgate St., opposite the folk museum) A popular old pub with a good selection of lunch dishes. T: (01452) 502-039. £

Good Food Coffee Shop (in the Gloucester Docks Antiques Centre) A convenient place for light lunches and teas. £

Ye Olde Fish Shoppe (8 Hare St., 2 blocks east of the cathedral) A fish-and-chips place that's been around for centuries. T: (01452) 522-502. X: Sun. £

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the Train Station (1) and follow the route on the map through a modern shopping district to St. Michael's Tower (2), a handsome 15th-century structure that was once part of a medieval church. It is located at The Cross, the meeting point of Gloucester's four main streets for nearly two millennia.

Stroll down Westgate Street and turn right into College Court, leading to:

*GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL (3), T: (01452) 528-095. Open daily 7:30-6. Requested donation ££. Whispering Gallery £. Tower tours, Wed.-Fri. at 2:30, Sat. & holidays at 1:30 and 2:30. ££. Guided tours on request. Evensong Mon.-Fri. at 5:30, Sat. at 4, Sun. at 3. Book shop. Coffee shop.

Gloucester Cathedral is a wonderful accumulation of styles evolved over the centuries, filled to the brim with interesting little details. Begun as a Norman abbey in 1089, it was the site of Henry III's coronation in 1216 — the only time since the Conquest that an English monarch was crowned outside of Westminster. Its importance increased again in 1327 when the abbey accepted for burial the body of Edward II, which some other churches had refused. This made it a place of pilgrimage for supporters of the beleagured, deposed, and murdered monarch. It also brought in considerable wealth, largely spent on rebuilding much of the abbey in the new, rather elegant, Perpenducular style of the 15th century. Barely a century later, in 1541, the abbey gained cathedral status after Henry VIII settled his dispute with the Pope by declaring England Protestant.

Inside, the Nave is still basically sturdy Norman although it sports an Early English ceiling of 1242. Americans might want to search along its north aisle for the memorial to John Stafford Smith (1750-1836), a minor English composer who wrote a tune that later became the Star-Spangled Banner. Exceptionally grandiose, the Choir was rebuilt by Edward III to honor his martyred father, whose lovel *Tomb graces the north side of the adjacent presbytery. While there, take a look at the intricately-carved wooden choirstalls and misericords of 1350. Beyond, at the far east end, the late-15th-century *Lady Chapel represents the final development of the Perpendicular style in all its splendor.

If the interior looks familiar even though you've never been here before, you may have seen it on the silver screen as a major setting for the Harry Potter movies, where it served as the Hogwarts School.

For many visitors, however, the cathedral's chief glory is its *Cloister, reached via the north side. Dating from the mid-14th century, its renowned fan vaulting is the earliest known example of this art in the nation.

Leave the cathedral precincts via College Street and turn right onto Westgate. The Gloucester Folk Museum (4), housed in half-timbered Tudor buildings, presents an engrossing introduction to Gloucester's past. Exhibits here include re-created workshops (photo, right), artifacts of everyday life, a Victorian schoolroom, argricultural items, and the like. T: (01452) 396-868. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-5. Free. Shop.

Using the map as a guide, thread your way south toward the docks. Along the way you'll pass the Blackfriars Priory (5), founded in 1239 and disbanded in the mid-16th century after the Reformation. Later used as a house and workshop, parts of it eventually became a church and a school. The site, still the most complete Dominican friary in England, can only be seen from the outside, except on infrequent guided tours.

Continue on to the Soldiers of Gloucestershire Museum (6), whose entrance faces the docks just south of Commercial Road. Fans of military museums will enjoy a visit to this exhibition, which goes far beyond the usual old medals and moth-eaten uniforms. T: (01452) 522-682. Open Tues.-Sun., Bank Holiday Mon., and Mon. in June-Sept., 10-5. ££. Gift shop.

You are now in the heart of the historic *Gloucester Docks, where restored sailing vessels and Victorian warehouses keep the city's maritime heritage very much alive. England's most inland port is located on the River Severn and is also connected directly with the sea by canal. Although shipping here dates from as early as Roman times, Gloucester really became an important port in 1580 when Queen Elizabeth I granted it oermission to engage in foreign trade.

Amble along the waterfront to the Mariners' Chapel (7), built in 1849 to provide a place of worship for visiting sailors. Take a look inside, then stroll over to Gloucester's second great attraction, the:

*NATIONAL WATERWAYS MUSEUM (8), T: (01452) 318-200. Open daily 10-5. Closed Christmas Day. Last admission at 4. ££. Café. Shop.

Occupying the largest warehouse of the docks, this thoroughly enjoyable museum brings two centuries of inland canal and river transportation to life once again with boats, working artifacts, interactive displays, and the like. Outside, you can board several of the vessels, take a short *cruise, watch demonstrations of bygone trades, ride a horse-drawn cart, or relax at a waterside café.

Cross the swing bridge and walk past the Merchant's Quay Shopping Centre, making your way across a lock gate to the Antiques Centre (9). Housed in a restored 19th-century warehouse, the center gathers together some 70 small antique dealers in an almost Dickensian atmosphere. T: (01452) 529-716. Open daily. Free entry weekdays, small charge on weekends and holidays. Café.

The shortest route back to the train station takes you past the City Museum and Art Gallery (10), a venerable institution that tells the story of Gloucester from prehistoric to Victorian times. All kinds of things are displayed here, including dinosaur bones, a Roman archaeological site, medieval artifacts, period furniture, a living aquarium and beehive, and paintings. T: (01452) 396-131. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-5. £.

Copyright © 2003 Earl Steinbicker

Updated to August 2006, with new photos and map.

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A CASTLE IN SCOTLAND

CLICK HERE for Hastings House author Judith Frances Duddle's guide to Stirling and its castle, taken directly from the pages of her guidebook Daytrips Scotland & Wales.

ST. ANDREWS, SCOTLAND

CLICK HERE for a free Daytrips guide to St. Andrews, Scotland, the birthplace of golf and a town with a lot more besides.

LONDON'S DOCKLANDS

Earl Steinbicker, Daytrips' chief sleuth, leads you on a do-it-yourself exploration of London's newest neighborhood. Taken from the pages of his guidebook Daytrips London, 7th edition, it has been updated in 2006 to reflect changes in this rapidly-developing part of town.

LONDON'S DOCKLANDS

To wander through London's newest neighborhood is to experience what may well be the future of cities around the globe. At least it's a possibility. For this is one urban area that appears to be really user-friendly, with plenty of amenities and colorful links with the past scattered among its gleaming high-rise, high-tech structures.

Once among the Earth's largest and most thriving ports, Docklands suffered terrible devastation during World War II. What the Luftwaffe didn't destroy was soon done in by modern technology. Container ships, those behemoths of the sea with their deep draft and wide berth, made the old docks obsolete, and shipping moved downriver to Tilbury.

By the late 1970s the unused docks were a sea of desolation, with mile after mile of abandoned buildings. Proximity to the crowded City of London's expanding trade, however, brought hope. In 1981 the London Docklands Development Corporation was formed to direct the largest urban renewal project in Europe. An amazing amount has been accomplished so far, as you will see. Many Londoners still consider Docklands to be out in the boondocks, situated far from the joys of the city, and littered with questionable architecture. Yet, considering the rot that was there and the economic realities of a City that had nowhere to expand, this seems a workable solution to making London into Europe's great financial center.

Along the walk you'll enjoy marvelous views of old Greenwich, amble through an actual farm, explore a stunning world of office towers and docks, wander the back alleys of mysterious  Limehouse, stroll along the Thames to the world's first underwater tunnel, then follow a watery path to the urbane pleasures of St. Katherine Docks. And perhaps stop along the way at an historic pub.

GETTING THERE:

The Docklands Light Railway (DLR) provides the easiest access to all areas along the way. It connects with the London Underground at Bank station (Northern, Central, and Waterloo & City lines; also via a short tunnel from Monument station on the Circle and District lines), and at Tower Gateway (a short walk from the Tower Hill station on the Circle and District lines). London Underground tickets and passes are valid as long as they cover the correct zones. Service is very frequent on these modern, completely automated trains. Take the DLR to the Island Gardens stop, where the walk begins. For information T: (020) 7363-9700.

The Jubilee Line of the Underground now extends from Green Park via Westminster, Waterloo, and London Bridge to Canary Wharf in Docklands, and beyond.

Boats depart London's Westminster and other piers for Greenwich, where you can take the pedestrian tunnel under the Thames to Island Gardens.

For all transit information, including boats, contact Transport for London at T: (020) 7222-1234.

PRACTICALITIES:

Being a business center, Docklands is alive on Mondays through Fridays, and less so on weekends.

Although the suggested route is almost seven miles long, nearly all of it is paralleled by the Docklands Light Railway (DLR), which can be used to greatly reduce the walking distance. Since you'll probably be hopping on and off the DLR several times, and also using the Underground, you should begin the day by purchasing a daypass for the appropriate zones. This will save both time and money.

For current information on the web, visit Canary Wharf, East London, or Tower Hamlets.

FOOD AND DRINK:

There are plenty of modern restaurants and pubs in this rapidly developing area. Fortunately, several historic riverside pubs from the old days survive, offering good food and drink with a view.

1802 (in the Museum in Docklands) Modern British cuisine, from snacks to full meals. A good-value lunch deal is offered on weekdays. T: (0870) 444-3886. £, ££ and £££

Tabla (Dockmaster's House, Hertsmere Rd., at west end of West India Quay, a quarter-mile northwest of Canary Wharf) Modern Indian cuisine in a smart setting. X: Sun., Sat. lunch. T: (020) 7345-0345. ££ and £££

Tai Pan (665 Commercial Rd., near Limehouse Basin) A family-run Chinese restaurant in London's original Chinatown. X: Fri. lunch, Sat. lunch. T: (020) 7791-0118. ££

The Grapes (76 Narrow St., on the Thames, east of Limehouse Basin) An historic Victorian pub downstairs, a good fish rrestaurant above, both overlooking the Thames. Real ale. T: (020) 7987-4396. £ and ££

Prospect of Whitby (57 Wapping Wall, on the Thames by Shadwell Basin) This very popular, historic restaurant and pub has been around since 1520. A London landmark. T: (020) 7481-1095. £ and ££

Dickens Inn (St. Katherine Docks) A pub and restaurant in an 18th-century warehouse, with indoor and outdoor tables overlooking the marina. Traditional English food and real ale. T: (020) 7488-2208. £ and ££

You might also consider taking the pedestrian tunnel (or riding the DLR) from Island Gardens to Greenwich, which has many places for lunch.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

CLICK ON MAP FOR LARGE, PRINTABLE IMAGE.

Begin at the Island Gardens Station (1) of the Docklands Light Railway, now extending south under the Thames to Greenwich and beyond, connecting with British Rail. This entire area, enclosed by a loop in the River Thames, is known as the Isle of Dogs after the animals that Henry VIII kept there when he lived across the river. Stroll along the adjacent waterside park for gorgeous *views of the Royal Naval College in Greenwich.

A curious domed structure near the water's edge is actually the entrance to the Greenwich Foot Tunnel, opened in 1902 and reached vis lifts at either end. Since It'll only take a few minutes, you might want to amble over for a quick look at Greenwich, and fir its view of Docklands.

Turning north, you can either walk or take the DLR to the strange and completely unexpected Mudchute Farm (2). A farm in London? In the very shadow of skyscrapers? Yes, indeed. This bit of rural bliss grew out of the allotment gardens of World War I, established atop the river dredgings pumped there when the Millwall Docks were first created in the 19th century. Today, visitors can wander among the sheep, cattle, pigs, and other animals, and in the adjacent public park, always enjoying great panoramic views. Just follow the path in from East Ferry Road. T: (020) 7515-5901. Open daily 9-4. Free.

Continue north on foot or by DLR to Crossharbour (3). Across the street stands the gleaming London Arena, a sports and convention center of 1989 that's huge enough for indoor soccer matches. Stroll behind it for a good view of Millwall Docks, now lined with an appealing mix of the old and the new.

Docklands' most notable project to date is undoubtedly *Canary Wharf (4), scenically reached by following the route shown on the map, or more easily by riding the DLR. Its main building, completed in 1991 and at 800 feet the tallest in Britain, is the Tower at One Canada Square. As the jewel in the crown of England's "Wall-Street-upon-Thames," this is a magnificent structure, surrounded by architecturally impressive neighbors. The old West India Docks provide attractive breathing space between the buildings.

Explore the public areas of the complex adjacent to the DLR Canary Wharf station, then amble over to the new:

*MUSEUM IN DOCKLANDS (5), T: (0870) 444-3856. Open Mon.-Sat. 10-5:50, Sun. noon-5:50. Closed Dec. 24-26, Jan. 1. ££. Gift shop. Café, restaurant.

Located in a wonderful late Georgian warehouse on West India Quay, the museum traces the history of the region with both traditional displays and interactive multimedia technologies, all spread over five stories and 12 major galleries, in addition to various boats outside.

From here you can either make the longish trek by foot to the next attraction, or ride the DLR to its Limehouse stop. However you get there, the area around the old Limehouse Basin (6) is a relief after the Isle of Dogs' severe modernity. Opened in 1812 as the London terminus of the still-functioning Grand Union Canal, the basin is now used for water sports. It flows into the Thames through locks at Narrow Street, where the original 19th-century dockmaster's house is now the colorful Barley Mow pub. At one time Limehouse had a substantial Chinese population and acquired a largely fictional reputation for vice, being sensationalized by the popular press as a land of opium dens, and worse. Those days are long gone; today's inhabitants are more likely to be young stockbrokers from Canary Wharf.

Head west along the river, making occasional inland forays to avoid inaccessible spots, to Shadwell Basin (7). One of the few remaining remnants of the former 27-acre London Docks of 1805, Shadwell is now surrounded by modern housing and used for water sports. Nearby, the Prospect of Whitby pub overlooks the river as it has since 1520 — when it was known as the Devil's Tavern on account of the low-life thieves who drank there. Other customers included Samuel Pepys, Dickens, and Turner.

Continue down Wapping Wall, a narrow street lined with historic warehouses successfully converted into atmospheric residential and commercial units. Wapping High Street leads west to Wapping Dock (8), close to the old Execution Dock from which Captain Kidd and other pirates were hanged. From the corner of Wapping Lane you can make an easy and unusual side trip. The world's first public underwater tunnel was completed here in 1843, and used by pedestrians until 1865. Since then it has carried Underground trains beneath the Thames, as it does today. Pop into Wapping Station and ride the East London line to Rotherhithe, then stroll north to the river. Brunel's Engine House (9) originally pumped water out of the tunnel, and is now a small museum celebrating this early feat of civil engineering. It's seldom open, but the old streets around it are well worth exploring anyway.

Back at Wapping, head north on Wapping Lane to Tobacco Dock (10). Built in 1814 with massive vaults to store tobacco, liquor, and wine, this was once part of the now-filled-in London Docks. Surviving today as an upscale shopping center, it is beautifully situated on restored canals.

Following these waterways west brings you to the St. Katherine Docks (11), opened in 1825 and now heavily used by pleasure craft. This is the end of the walk; a perfect place for a well-earned rest at one of its colorful pubs. Just beyond the docks is the Tower Bridge, the Tower of London, and the Tower Hill Station of the Underground.

Copyright © 2002 Earl Steinbicker. Updated to 2006 for this site.

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Scotland's Stirling

British author Judith Frances Duddle guides us on an easy one-day, do-it-yourself trip from either Edinburgh or Glasgow, taken directly from her book Daytrips Scotland & Wales. That's her on the right. More of Judith's writings can be found right here by clicking Travel in Britain under categories on the right column.

STIRLING...a great castle linking Scotland's Highlands and Lowlands

Stirling has been described as a "huge brooch clasping the Highlands and Lowlands together." Whoever held Stirling Castle, controlled the Scottish nation. Although the site was probably inhabited by Ancient Britons and possibly later by Romans and even, according to legend, by King Arthur, the earliest known record of a castle here dates from the 12th century. This was taken by the English in 1296 and recaptured by the great Scottish hero William Wallace after the Battle of Stirling Bridge.

From the ramparts of Stirling Caste, the sites of no less than seven Scottish battles can be seen. It's hardly surprising then, given the history of the castle, that Stirling means "Place of Strife."

This trip can easily be combined in the same day with one to Linlithhow as they are both on the same rail line.

GETTING THERE:

Trains leave Edinburgh's Waverley Station every 25 minutes for the 50-minute run to Stirling.

Trains depart Glasgow's Queen Street Station frequently for the 40-minute ride to Stirling.

By Car from Edinburgh, take the A8, A71, M8, M9, and A91 roadways to Stirling, a distance of 39 miles.

By Car from Glasgow, the quickest route to Stirling is via the A8, M80, A80, and A91 roads. The total distance is 29 miles.

PRACTICALITIES:

There are two ports of call for information in Stirling, the first Tourist Information Centre is based at 41 Dumbarton Road, T: (08707) 200-620, and the second is located at the Royal Burgh of Stirling Visitor Centre, Castle Esplanade T: (08707) 200-622. Striling's population is 37,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Sportsters Sports Bar and Diner (52-54 King St.) American food served in a lively bar and restaurant. T: (01786) 409-000. £ and ££

Golden Lion Milton Hotel (8 King St.) A full restaurant with Scottish food, set in an historic building. T: (0808) 100-5556. £ and ££

Portcullis Hotel (Castle Wynd, near the castle) An old pub that goes well back into Stirling's history. Full restaurant and bar meals. T: (01786) 472-290. £ and ££

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

CLICK ON MAP FOR LARGE PRINTABLE IMAGE.

Leave the train station (1) and follow the map around the Thistle Shopping Centre, then turn right on King Street, soon becoming Spittal Street. The continuation of this, St. John Street, leads uphill past some old houses to the interesting Church of the Holy Rood (6) and the Old Town Jail, which you can visit later.

For the moment, turn right on Castle Wynd and stroll uphill to Argyll's Lodging (2). This is the finest and most complete surviving 17th-century townhouse in Scotland. It was built by Sir William Alexander, the Principal Secretary for Scotland and founder of the Scottish Colony of Nova Scotia in the New World. When this was ceded to the French in 1632, Sir William turned his interests southward and took possession of parts of Maine and all of Long Island, which he intended to rename Isle of Stirlinge. Fortunately for New Yorkers this did not happen and Sir William died heavily in debt. His coat-of-arms, above the main entrance, depicts an Indian, a beaver, and a mermaid. The house later passed to the Earl of Argyll, thus the name. T: (01786) 431-319, Open April-Sept., daily 9:30-6; Oct.-March, daily 9:30-5. £.

Continue uphill to the Royal Burgh of Stirling Visitor Centre (3), where you will discover the story of Royal Stirling from the Wars of Independence through life in the medieval burgh to the present day, with the aid of a multilingual audiovisual show. Also housed here is one of the Tourist Information Centres. T: (01786) 462-517. Open April-June & Sept., daily 9:30-6; July-Aug., daily 9-6:30; Nov.-March, daily 9:30-5. Closed Dec. 25-26, Jan. 1. Free.

Straight from here you can wander up to:

*STIRLING CASTLE (4), T: (01786) 450-000. Open April-Sept., daily 9:30-6; Oct.-March, daily 9:30-5. ££.

The castle is mounted high on an old volcanic outcrop, with historical records showing that it was first built in between 1370 and 1750. The attractions include the restored Great Hall and a medieval kitchen reconstruction. Be sure to explore the battlements, especially Lady's Hole Terrace, which has some fabulous views.

Now follow the map down steps and around the Back Walk to the Guildhall (5), a lovely 17th-century almshouse for "decayed breithers," as unsuccessful merchants were called. Next to this is the Church of the Holy Rood (6), a medieval church dating from the 15th century. This is where the infant James VI (son of Mary Queen of Scots and James I) was crowned in 1567 and where John Knox preached the sermon. T: (01786) 475-275. Open May-Sept., daily 10-5. Free.

Turning left behind the apse of the church brings you to the remains of a Renaissance palace, commissioned by the Earl of Mar in 1570. The building work was never completed and later became a workhouse for vagrants. During a siege of the castle in 1746 it was badly damaged, but the intriguing façade was left standing to serve as a windbreak.

Now stroll down St. John Street where you will find the Old Town Jail (7). The jail paints a frightening picture of what it would have been like to be imprisoned in the 1800s. As you walk around the dingy corridors inspecting the cells, you can soak up the atmosphere of jail life — creaking hinges, a shuffle of feet, an eerie silence. Without warning you may even witness an attempted jailbreak! (Don't worry, it isn't a ghost, just an actor giving one of his "Living History Performances"). T: (01786) 450-050. Open April-Sept., daily 9:30-6; Oct. and March, daily 9:30-5; Nov.-Feb., daily 9:30-4. £. From here you can follow the map back to the train and bus stations.

ADDITIONAL ATTRACTION:

You should not visit Stirling without seeing the famous battlefield of Bannockburn. From the bus station, located next to the train station, catch the Guide Friday Bus, which runs every 40 minutes starting at 9:55 a.m. for the 2-mile journey to Glasgow Road, and the Bannockburn Heritage Centre (8). The Battle of Bannockburn was undoubtedly one of the most spectacular battles of the Scottish Wars of Independence. Although the struggle against the English was to continue for some 13 years more, the Scottish victory was of enormous importance as it secured the future of the throne for Robert Bruce, King of Scots. At the centre, attractions include an audiovisual presentation of the battle, an informative "Kingdom of the Scots" exhibition and a striking equestrian statue of King Robert. T: (01786) 812-664. Site open all year. Heritage Centre and Shop oopen April-Oct., 10-5:30; March and Nov.-Dec. 23, 10:30-4. Last audiovisual half an hour before closing. Hertitage Centre & Shop (incl. audiovisual) £.

Copyright © 2004 Judith Frances Duddle.

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THE BIRTHPLACE OF GOLF

THE BIRTHPLACE OF GOLF...as a Daytrip from Scotland's Edinburgh or even Glasgow

Hastings House author Judith Frances Duddle, in her travel guidebook Daytrips Scotland & Wales, shows us that St. Andrews is also about more than golf, having magnificent ocean views, a ruined medieval castle, the remains of a great cathedral, a quaint harbor, a folk museum and a local history museum. And it's easy to get to, especially from Edinburgh.

ST. ANDREWS

On May 14 1754, twenty-two "Gentlemen of honour, skillful in the ancient and healthy excercise of Golf," founded the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrews — which is the world's most celebrated golf course.

St. Andrews is a picturesque Royal Burgh at the centre of the golf world and boasts several fine courses, including the famed Old Course, beloved of champions past and present.

The golfing Mecca is renowned for more than the game it gave the world — overlooking the sea but now standing in ruin, St. Andrews Castle is a lasting epitaph of a distant past. Founded in 1200, the castle was the dramatic wave-swept backdrop of many of the bloodiest episodes of the Reformation. Another building left in ruin is that of St. Andrews Cathedral, although it is still possible to this day to climb the daunting St. Rules Tower.

As the golf course is practically in the town and the public footpaths cut right through it, you can follow a round of golf from start to finish — even if you're not a player.

GETTING THERE:
Trains marked for Dundee leave Edinburgh's Waverley Station at hourly intervals for the 95-minute journey to Leuchars, the nearest station to St. Andrews. From there cathch a bus or taxi into St. Andrews, a distance of 5 miles.
Trains from Glasgow's Queen Street Station via Edinburgh's Waverley Station, will arrive in Leuchars after a 2¼- hour journey.
By Car from Edinburgh, take the toute A8, A90, A91 and A915 to St. Andrews. The total distance is 55 miles.
By Car from Glasgow, take the A80, M80, M9 and A91 route. The total distance is 74 miles.

PRACTICALITIES:
The local Tourist Information Centre is situated at 70 Market Street, Phone (01334) 472-021. Taxi ranks are at the Bus Station on City Road and outside the Holy Trinity Church.

If arriving by car, watch out for St. Andrews town centre's peculiar "voucher parking system." To be able to park for up to 2 hours, you have to buy 80-pence vouchers from participating shops.

The open-top bus runs from May 25 to October 1 — starting point is in Church Street.

FOOD AND DRINK:
Russell Hotel (25 The Scores, near the Golf Course) Bar food and restaurant, serving Scottish and International dishes. T: (01334) 473-447. £ and ££
St. Andrews Golf Hotel (40 The Scores) Bistro food an à  la carte restaurant. T: (01334) 472-611. £ and ££
North Point Café (24 North St., near the castle, harbour and cathedral) Sandwiches and daily changing  specials. Extensive coffee menu. T: (01334) 850-004. £
La Posada (St. Mary's Place) Mexican restaurant. Magician on Wednesday evenings. T: (01334) 470-500. ££

SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
CLICK ON THE MAP FOR A LARGE PRINTABLE VIEW.

Leave the Bus Ststion (1) and follow City Road and Golf Place to the Royal and Ancient Golf Club (2). In 1457 James II banned the game of golf because he feared men would stop practising archery and be unable to defend his kingdom, but thankfully this did not see the end of golf, just its beginning. The famous clubhouse is not open to visitors, and women guests are welcome only on St. Andrews Day. Luckily, if you do feel the urge to have a game there are five other courses in town, and plenty of golf shops that hire clubs to visitors.  Just opposite the Golf Club, you will  find the:

*BRITISH GOLF MUSEUM (3). Bruce Embankment, T: (01334) 460-046. Open Easter to mid-Oct., daily 9:30-5:30; mid-Oct. to Easter, Thurs.-Mon. 11-3.
The Golf Museum traces the history of British golf from the Middle Ages to the present day. You can discover how a golf ball is made as well as sharing the experiences of great players of the past.
Now walk easterly down The Scores until you reach the Castle Visitor Centre and:

ST. ANDREWS CASTLE (4), T: (01334) 477-196. Open April-Sept., daily 9:30-6; Oct.-March, daily 9:30-4.
The castle started life in 1200 as a bishop's palace, but before it turned into ruins it was used as a prison for religious reformers.
Though in ruins, the castle is quite fascinating and steeped in historical importance. Be sure to see the strange Bottle Dungeon, hollowed out of solid rocj, and the Kitchen Tower. Agile travellers may want to probe the Mine and Counter Mine, used in the 16th-century taking of the castle.

A path from here leads to the quaint little Harbour (5), one of the oldest in Scotland. Celtic Monks built the church of St. Mary on The Rock whose remains stand near the harbour.
Follow the map to the:

*ST. ANDREWS CATHEDRAL and ST. RULE'S TOWER (6), The Pends. T: (01334) 472-563. Open Spril-Sept., daily 9:30-6:30; Oct.-March, Mon.-Sat. 9:30-4:30, Sun. 2-4:30.
Though the cathedral is now in ruin, the remains still impress upon you the scale of what was once the largest cathedral in Scotland.
Close to the southeast angle stans the St. Rule's Tower. This 100-foot-high tower has survived intact and can still be climbed to this very day for a magnificent view of the town.

The route now leads past The Pends, a 14th-century vaulted gatehouse, to the priory precinct.  Just down South Street stands the handsome 16th-century Queen Mary's House, which according to tradition is open to the public every year on St. Andrews Day, 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. Continue around to St. Leonard's Chapel (7), built in 1512 for St. Leonard's College and now well restored. Visitors may look around the college, but by appointment only.

Retrace your steps and turn left on North Street. The first group of buildings on the left  is known as  Dean's Court,  dating from the 16th and 17th centuries and now used as a student residence. A few steps beyond is the small Preservation Trust Museum. The Trust has created a fascinating museum in an old fisherman's cottage near the cathedral. The ground floor concentrates on two old shops, a chemist and grocer's shop, dating from 1837.  Upstairs houses a changing series of exhibitions on a variety of subjects. 12 North St., T: (01334) 477-629. Open daily 2-5 during Easter, then from May-Sept. and on St. Andrews Week. Free, donations welcome.

The entrance arch to St. Salvator's College (8) is just down North Street. Go inside and examine this central part of the ancient university. The oldest structure, dating from 1450, is the Chapel.  Tours of the university are offered from early July to mid-Sept., at 10:30 and 2:30. They start at the porter's lodge in the quadrangle.

Now follow the map through Market Street with its interesting 19th-century fountain. The very narrow Logie's Lane leads to Church Square and then onto South Street, where across the way is Holy Trinity Church (9), founded in 1410 but considerably altered since. It was here that John Knox preached his first sermon in public. Surprisingly, there is an intricate monument to a Catholic archbishop who was brutally murdered nearby in 1679.

Continue down South Street, past the ruins of Blackfriars Chapel to the West Port (10). Dating from 1589, it is the only fortified gateway in Scotland to survive. Pass through it and turn right onto City Road. Then turn left at the mini-roundabout and follow the map along Double Dykes Road to St. Andrews Museum (11).  The museum is located in Kinburn Park and was built as a private residence in 1855 and named after a Crimean battle of the same year. Kinburn Castle became home to St. Andrews Museum in 1991 and is now owned and operated by Fife Council. The museum explores St. Andrews' heritage from medieval times right through the 20th century, and offers imaginative displays using interesting artifacts to tell the town's story through the ages. Along with a changing programme of temporary exhibitions on a wide variety of topics, the museum is host to lectures and childrens' activities. When you have finished absorbing all that information, you can pop into the museum's café for a light meal and a cup of coffee or tea. T: (01334) 412-690. Open April-Sept., daily 10-5; Oct.-March, Mon.-Fri. 10:30-4, Sat.-Sun. 12:30-5. Free.

Retrace your steps back along Double Dykes Road, turn left at the second roundabout, and this will bring you back to the bus station.

Copyright © 2004 Judith Frances Duddle. This chapter from Daytrips Scotland & Wales has been modified slightly to work better online, and has had color added. Ms. Duddle is a well-travelled author living in the Northwest of England.

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AN EASY DAYTRIP FROM LONDON

Author Earl Steinbicker investigates the streets of London in search of more material for his Daytrips London guidebook, now in its seventh edition. Although several other authors have joined the Daytrips team, Earl was its creator way back in 1983. He also authored Daytrips books for Germany, France, Italy, the Benelux countries, as well as several in the U.S.A. including New York, Pennsylvania, New England, and Washington D.C. Long a resident of New York City, he now lives in the Philadelphia suburbs. The sample below is taken from his London book.

AN EASY DAYTRIP FROM LONDON...even before getting over jet lag.

We'll be adding new chapters taken directly from the pages of our Daytrips series of travel guides. For this installment, we've selected one by the series' creator, Earl Steinbicker, from his Daytrips London, 7th edition. It is slightly modified to work better on this blog. This is just about the easiest one-day excursion you can make from London, so easy in fact that you can try it even before getting over jet lag! Enjoy!

Windsor and Eton

Windsor, like Stratford, Oxford, and the Tower of London, is one of England's greatest tourist attractions. It has just the right combination of elements to make an ideal daytrip destination for first-time visitors and seasoned travelers alike. To begin with, it is very close to the capital and easy to reach. Second, it contains within a small area much of what is considered to be typically English. There is the Royal Castle, still in use after 850 years, a picturesque riverside location on the Thames, a colorful Victorian town, and in Eton one of the great public schools that have molded British characyer since the Middle Ages. Add these together and you have a carefree and thoroughly delightful day ahead of you.

GETTING THERE:
Trains operated by Thames depart London's Paddington Station frequently for Slough, where you change to a shuttle train for Windsor & Eton Central. The total journey takes about 40 minutes, with returns until late evening. Service is reduced on Sundays and holidays. There is also direct service, operated by South West, from London's Waterloo Station to Windsor & Eton Riverside, taking about 50 minutes and running twice an hour, less frequently on Sundays and holidays. Most travelers will find the route via Paddington to be more convenient.
By Car, Windsor is 28 miles west of London via the M4 motorway. Get off at junction 6.

PRACTICALITIES:
The castle grounds and most attractions are open daily except for special events. If in doubt, check with the Tourist Information Centre, 25 High Street, opposite the castle, T: (01753) 743-900.

Guide Friday operates a hop-on, hop-off open-top double-decker bus service from late March through October, running at frequent intervals on a continuous loop route through Windsor and Eton. A running commentary is provided. Buy tickets from the driver or the tourist centre. T: (01789) 294-466.

Windsor is in the county of Berkshire, and has a population of about 30,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:
Some good restaurants and pubs are:
IN WINDSOR:

Strok's Restaurant (Thames St., near the bridge) English and French cuisine at an inn, once the home of Sir Chrisopher Wren. T: (01753) 861-354. X: Sat. lunch. £££
Punters Wine Bar (50 Thames St., near the bridge) Light lunches, dinners, and drinks, with outdoor tables beneath the castle. T: (01753) 865-565. ££
Red Rose (69 Victoria St., west of the Home Park) Excellent Indian cuisine. T: (01753) 620-180. £ and ££
Carpenters Arms (Market St., behind the Guildhall) A comfortable pub with lunches. X for meals: Sun. T: (01753) 863-695) £
Crooked Tea House (52 High St., near the Guildhall) Light lunches and teas. T: (01753) 857-534. X: Sun. £

IN ETON:
The Cockpit (47 High St.) Enjoy Italian and other cuisines in this historic inn. X: Mon., Tues. lunch. T: (01753) 860-944. ££
Waterman's Arms (Brocas St., a block northwest of the bridge) This tiny pub has been a favorite for both its ale and pub grub. T: (01753) 861-006. £

SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map
CLICK ON THE MAP FOR LARGE PRINTABLE IMAGE.

Start your walk at the Royal Windsor Information Center (1) at 24 High Street, opposite the castle and close to Central Station. Here you can check out the latest information and perhaps visit their small Town & Crown Exhibition, depicting the town's development and its relationship to the monarchy. Open daily. Free.

Cross the main street, passing the statue of Queen Victoria, and enter the grounds of:

*WINDSOR CASTLE (2-4), T: (01753) 868-286. Open daily except certain days; check first. Open March-Oct. 9:45-5:15 (last admission at 4); Nov.-Feb. 9:45-4:15 (last admission at 3) State apartments closed much of June, parts of Oct., and parts of Nov. St. George's Chapel is closed on Sun. ££££. Family tickets are available. Reduced prices when parts of the castle are closed

Queen Victoria guards the castle.

Begun by William the Conqueror in the 11th century, Windsor Castle has been altered by nearly every succeeding monarch. It is the largest inhabited castle in the world and remains a chief residence for the sovereigns of England.

Enter through Henry VIII's Gateway and visit *St. George's Chapel (2), one of the most beautiful churches in England and the home of its oldest order of chivalry, the Most Noble Order of the Garter, founded in 1348 by Edward III. Continue on past the massive Round Tower (3) and go out on the North Terrace, which has magnificent views up and down the River Thames. The entrance to the State Apartments (4) is nearby. Another appealing attraction is *Queen Mary's Dolls' House, a miniature 20th-century palace in exquisite detail, also entered from the North Terrace. The rest of your tour of the castle can be spent just poking about any area that is not off limits.

Leave the castle and stroll down Church Street, perhaps stopping at the Parish Church and Brass Rubbing Centre. Walk through the graveyard to St. Alban's Street. You might want to go down Park Street for a view of the Long Walk (5) in the Home Park.

The elegant Guildhall (6) on High Street was completed in 1689 by Sir Christopher Wren. Step onto its porch and note that the center columns do not quite reach the ceiling they allegedly support, a trick played by the architect to prove the soundness of his design. Interior rooms open Mon. only, 10-2. Free. Continue down High Street and Thames Street, making a left at the footpath to the river. Along the way you'll pass a bowling green, tennis courts, and a lovely waterside park. Boat trips operated by French Brothers Ltd., some as short as 35 minutes, are available here. T: (01753) 851-900. Fares from £££, family tickets available.

The old cast-iron bridge (7) to Eton is reserved for pedestrians. Once across it follow High Street past numerous shops and pubs to the Cock Pit (8), a 15th-century timbered inn where cockfighting was once patronized by Charles II, the Merry Monarch. Outside it are the town stocks and an unusual Victorian mailbox.

Eton College (9) was founded in 1440 by Henry VI, himself a teenager at the time. It is the most famous of England's public (meaning very private) schools and has educated many of the nation's greatest leaders. As you walk around you will notice the peculiar traditional garb of students, which makes them look a little like penguins. Parts of the school are open to visitors, including the schoolyard, cloisters, and the chapel. The Upper and Lower schools may also be seen, and guided tours are available. Be sure to visit the Museum of Eton Life, which re-creates life among the students in bygone times and is located in the cellars of the original 15th-century buildings. T: (01753) 671-177. Open late March to late April and early July to early Sept., 10:30-4:30; late April to early July and early Sept. to early Oct., 2-4:30. Guided tours at 2:15 and 3:15. The chapel is closed on weekdays from 1-2, and on Sun. from 12:30-2. The entire college is closed on two days in May and June. ££.

Return to the bridge. If you have any strength or time left you may want to take a pleasant walk along the Thames to the Romney Lock (10), or visit a pub before returning to London.

ADDITIONAL ATTRACTION:
If you have a kid in tow, or even if you're just a big kid yourself, and especially if you're staying overnight, consider a visit to nearby:

LEGOLAND WINDSOR (11) , Windsor-Ascot Rd. (B3022), 2 miles south of Windsor, T: (0990) 040404. Frequent bus service from outside the Parish Church or opposite the Theatre Royal in Windsor. Open mid-March through Oct., daily 10-6 or dusk if earlier, remaining open until 8 from mid-July to early Sept. ££££. Restaurants. Picnic facilities. Shops.

A British version of the Danish original, Legoland is a fun-packed theme park where children 2-12 can have a great time while learning all the while. There's a variety of rides for different age groups, challenging  workshops, and a mini-Europe constructed from over 20 million Lego bricks.

Copyright © 2003 Earl Steinbicker

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