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Fjord du Saguenay

Taken directly from Karen Desrosiers' comprehensive guidebook Daytrips Québec, this excursion from Québec City into a natural wonderland can be done in a day, although a more leisurely two-day outing is recommended.

FJORD DU SAGUENAY

The Fjord du Saguenay is a spectacular natural wonderland, protected by the Parc du Saguenay and Parc Marin du Saguenay-Saint-Laurent. Solid walls of rock drop to the dark cool waters of the river, while picturesque villages rest snuggly between the river's edge and mountains.

The Rivière Saguenay, which stretches for over 152 km (95 miles), is the only river draining Lac Saint-Jean. From Saint-Fulgence, about 48 km (30 miles) from Lac Saint-Jean, to the Saint Lawrence River in Tadoussac, the Saguenay River flows through this awesome fjord.

Cut in Precambrian rock during the last Ice Age, the deep fjord is bordered by striking cliffs, some of which are over 450 meters (1,500 feet) high. The river is as much as 1476 meters (4,920 feet) in places and averages 236 meters (787 feet) deep.

GETTING THERE:

By Car, L'Anse-Saint-Jean and Tadoussac (the start and ending points of the tour) are each about 248 km (155 miles) north and northeast of Québec City. The tour around the fjord is also about 248 km (155 miles) long.

Take Rte. 138 east from Québec City to Saint-Siméon. Turn left onto Rte. 170.

Turn right and follow signs to L'Anse-Saint-Jean.

Return to Rte. 170 and turn right. At Rivière-Éternité turn right into the Parc du Saguenay.

Return to Rte. 170 and turn right. At Saint-Félix-d'Otis, turn right and follow the rough road to Nuevo France.

Continue on the old road until it meets with Rte. 170 again. Turn right and continue on Rte. 170 to La Baie.

Bear left, continuing on Rte. 170 to Chicoutimi. Turn right on Rte. 175 and follow it to the center of town and the old port. Cross the bridge to the opposite side of the river. Turn right on Rte. 172 east.

Turn right, descending to the river, for Sainte-Rose-du-Nord.

Return to Rte. 172 and continue to Tadoussac. Turn right onto Rte. 138. A free ferry service brings you across the mouth of the Saguenay River. Continue on Rte. 138, returning to Québec City.

PRACTICALITIES:

This is a long tour, with a lot of driving involved, so it is recommended that you get an early start to do it in one day. Or, consider taking two days to move at a more leisurely pace. There are places to stay in Chicoutimi (the halfway point of the tour) and in Tadoussac. You may also want to combine this trip with a tour of Tadoussac (Trip 15).

The weather can be cool in the area around the Fjord du Saguenay, even in August. It is wise to have warm clothes with you when visiting the area, just in case they are needed.

Tourisme Chicoutimi-Valin, 295 Rue Racine, Chicoutimi. Open year-round Mon.-Fri. 8:30-12 and 1:30-4:30. T: (418) 698-3167 or 1-800-463-6565.

Société Touristique du Fjord, 1171 Avenue 7th, La Baie. Open year-round Mon.-Fri. 8:30-12 and 1:30-4:30. T: (418) 697-5050 or 1-800-263-2243.

Additional tourist information is available on the Internet.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Cactus Rock Café (200 Boulevard Grande-Baie North, La Baie) Casual restaurant-bar serving an extensive menu of international, Canadian, vegetarian, and seafood dishes. T: (418) 544-9310. $$

La Sauvagine (122 Rue Jacques-Cartier East, Chicoutimi) Fine French cuisine and regional game dishes. T: (418) 690-2255. $$$

Restaurant Bistro La Cuisine (387 Racine East, Chicoutimi) Delicious and satisfying French, International, grill and seafood, popular with the local crowd. T: (418) 698-2822. $$ and $$$

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

CLICK ON MAP FOR LARGE PRINTABLE IMAGE.

Start the tour in perhaps one of the most beautiful villages of the Fjord du Saguenay, L'Anse-Saint-Jean (1). This charming town, founded in 1828, with beautiful ancestral homes and a preserved covered bridge, will win your heart. Resting on the edge of the Saguenay River and surrounded by mountains, the village is a peaceful place offering a wide variety of nearby activities.

For an adventurous look at the Fjord dy Saguenay, try Fjord en Kayak, 359 Rue St.-Jean-Baptiste. A number of expeditions are available, offering a close look at all the beauty and splendor of the fjord. The Islet Saint-Jean tour is a memorable three-hour journey by small islands, waterfalls, and steep cliffs. The outfitters supply weatherproof clothing free of charge. T: (418) 272-3024. Tours run mid-May through Sept. Three-hour tours depart at 9:30, 2 and 5:30. Rates start at $42 per person. Not recommended for children under 3.

Cross the covered bridge, continue for about 4.8 km (3 miles) and turn right to access Anse de Tabatière for amazing views of the area.

The village of Rivière-Éternité (2) has been called the Bethlehem of the snow. A number of life-size religious scenes are displayed in the peaceful municipal park. The Exposition Internationale de Crèches de Rivière-Éternité. held in the basement of the church at 418 Rue Principale, has a charming exhibit of more than 250 nativity scenes created by artists from Québec and around the world. T: (418) 272-2807. Open July-Sept. daily 9-7; late Nov. to early Jan. daily 12:30-7:30, Sun. 10:30-7:30. Admission $5 for adults, $2 for children, children under 5 are free.

PARC du SAGUENAY (3), T: 1-877-272-5229. Open mid-May through June daily 9-5; July-Labor Day daily 9-9; Sept. to early Oct. daily 9-5. Admission $3.50 for adults, $1.50 for children 6-17, children 5 and under are free. Family rates are available.

Founded in 1983, the park was established to protect the fjord, extending for over 96 km (60 miles) and covering more than 298 square kilometers (115 square miles).

The "Secteur Baie Éternité" has a welcome center at the gate that provides information and maps. At the end of the road, an Interpretation Center welcomes visitors and provides the base for outdoor activities in the park. Exhibits introduce visitors to the flora and fauna of the area and explain the formation of the fjord.

A scenic cruise on Croisière du Cap Trinité, departing from the visitor center, is the ideal way to see the stunning cliffs and capes of the fjord. T: (418) 272-2591. Tours run late May to mid-Sept., 11 and 2:30, for 1½ hours. Admission $20 for adults.

Cap Trinité (4) rises sharply at the confluence of the Rivière Éternité and the Fjord du Saguenay. The round trip usually takes about three to three-and-a-half hours. A statue of the Virgin Mary, known as Our Lady of the Saguenay, is perched 177 meters (590 feet) above the dark waters on the first ledge of the cape. The statue, created in 1881, is over 26 feet tall, carved from three blocks of pine and covered in lead. The 3,400-kilo (7,000-pound) statue turned out to be too heavy to bring up the cliff. It had to be separated into pieces, carried up individually, and then reassembled.

A stop at Saint-Félix d'Otis is a trip to the pristine and wild land of Québec's past. The virgin landscape has been popular with moviemakers. The site of Nuevo France (5), off Chemin du Vieux, transports visitors to the 17th century, when the first settlers inhabited the area. Professional guides in period costumes lead visitors through authentically re-created buildings representing a Huron Village, Québec City, a country house, and a Montagnais village. T: (418) 544-8027. Open late June to mid-Aug., daily 9:15-4:30; late Aug.-Labor Day, weekends 9:15-4:30. Admission $12 for adults, $6 for children, children under 5 are free. Call for times of English language tours.

La Baie (6) sits at the end of the magnificent Baie des Ha! Ha!, known locally as "the sea." Legend has it that the bay was named after Ha! Ha! Street in 17th-century Paris. A group of settlers, dubbing themselves the Society of Twenty-One, set out to settle the Saguenay-Saint-Jean area and founded three villages at the end of the Baie des Ha! Ha! in 1838. The villages were later merged into the community of La Baie.

Parc Mars, running along the bay, affords spectacular views of the fjord. Near the park, gift shops and galleries await.

The Musée du Fjord, 3346 Boulevard de la Grande-Baie South, has a number of interesting natural science and art exhibits. A vast display of mounted insects give a close look at the mysterious world of Québec's worlds. The "Paysages du Fjord" exhibit features the latest works of regional artists. A new exhibit and documentary commemorate the flood of 1996. T: (418) 697-5077. Open late June to Labor Day, Mon.-Fri. 9-6; Labor Day to late June, Tues.-Fri. 9-5, Sat.-Sun. 1-5. Admission $8.50 for adults, $5.50 for students and children 6-11, children under 5 are free.

Check out La Pyramide des Ha! Ha!, Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean's monument to the millennium. The reflecting pyramid, made primarily of aluminum, was built by a group pf citizens after the 1996 flood.

MUSÉE de la DÉFENSE AÉRIENNE de BAGOTVILLE (7), Route 170, Bogotville. T: (418) 677-4000 ext. 8159. Open mid-June through Aug. daily 9-5. Guided tours of the Canadian Forces Base at 9:45 and 2, by reservation. Admission, for museum and tour, $4 for adults, $3 for children, children under 5 are free.

This is the only museum in Québec dedicated to the history of military aviation. Interesting and informative exhibits, featuring aviation artifacts and models, illustrate the history of Canadian military air defense and the Canadian Forces Base in Bagotville. During a tour of the base, get a close look at the CF-18 Hornet, as well as other military planes from Canada and around the world.

Continue on to Chicoutimi (8). Situated around three magnificent rivers (Chocoutimi, du Moulin, and Saguenay), Chicoutimi was the hub of the fur trade that thrived in the area for nearly 200 years, but was not founded as a community until 1842, when the first sawmill was erected at the site. Today, the city is a world leader in the pulp and paper industry. The city's name is derived from the Montagnais word "eshko-timiou" which means "edge of deep waters."

The downtown area of the city is alive with boutiques, galleries, pubs, and terraced restaurants.

The historic basin area of the city has a number of interesting sites and a scenic walkway. The basin was the area most effected during the massive flood of 1996 and has since been reconstructed. The Petite Maison Blanc (little white house) stands alone at the top of a ragged rock wall. Miraculously, this was the only house to survive the flood of 1996. The Église Sacre-Coeur presides over the area with its sinle elegant silver steeple. Also of interest is the Abitibi-Consolidated Dam.

The historic Vieux Port offers a wide variety of activities and attractions. The works of local artists and crafts people are on display at the pARTerre. A public market, Halles du Marché, offers local produce and other locally-made products.

A beautiful park, the Zone Portuaire, stretches out along the river by the old port, on Rue Lafontaine. Fanciful fountains and statues of whales delight visitors and playgrounds give the younger set a place to let out some steam. From June to September the park hosts a number of outdoor entertainment programs. T: (418) 698-3025. Open May-June daily. Market open May-Sept. daily 9-9. The pARTerre is open late June through Sept. Wed.-Sun. 1-9. Admission is free.

For a relaxing way to see the city, take a Tour de Calèche, by the old port.

The imposing Cathédrale Saint-François-Xavier, 514 Rue Racine, stands watch over the old city and port. The cathedral, dating from 1915, has twin silver-topped towers and an imposing stone façade.

Perched high above the hill on the north shore of the river, La Croix de Sainte-Anne (9), on Rue de la Croix, is a reminder of the community's faith and commemorates the extensive fire of 1870 that destroyed most of the region, but left Chicoutimi standing. The location, at the top of Cap Saint-Joseph, offers sweeping views of the city and fjord. Open May-Oct. daily 7-9. Admission is free.

To the east lies Saint-Fulgence (10). Resting on the north shore of the Saguenay River, the town of Saint-Fulgence is committed to conservation and ecology. Sandbars weave along the river's edge, welcoming an array of waterfowl. Wood boardwalks and trails provide a place to stroll and take in the wildlife. The drive along Route 172, on either side of the village, presents panoramic views of the Saguenay River, the Fjord, and Mont Valin which rises high to the north of the town.

At the end of April each year, more than 10,000 Canadian geese stop to rest and feed along the shores of Saint-Fulgence during spring migration. This is a truly spectacular sight to see.

Sainte-Rose-du-Nord (11), founded in 1838, is a spectacular little village, wedged in a small valley between steep mountainsides and the Saguenay River. The charming haven has long been popular with artists and tourists who are attracted by the breathtaking views of the fjord and the peaceful beauty of the village. The wooden church is worth a look with its thematic décor honoring the forest. From the wharf, a 1½ mile hiking trail leads to a scenic overlook on the fjord.

The Musée de la Nature, 199 Rue de la Montagne, is an interesting and unique little museum that exudes a love for nature. The museum proudly displays some of the nature and wildlife found in the region, including tree burrs, wild mushrooms, butterflies, and the Canadian Lynx. Two sharks, which were pulled from the frozen Saguenay River at Saint-Rose-du-Nord, can be examined and touched. T: (418) 675-2348. Open year-round daily 8:30-9. Admission $5 for adults, $1 for children 6-13, children 5 and under are free.

Copyright © 2006 Karen Desrosiers

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GREAT AMERICAN MANSIONS

GREAT AMERICAN MANSIONS...and their stories

• Over 100,000 copies sold
• The first full-scale source to great American homes ever published

Hastings House has been publishing Great American Mansions since 1963. Thousands of people have since been fascinated with this lavishly illustrated book of how and why some of America's greatest mansions happened to be built, and who has lived in them. Its pages are filled with stories of dramatic, amusing and tragic events that have taken place within the walls of the most elegant of American homes — from Biltmore in North Carolina, to Turnblad's Chateau in Minnesota, to Florida's famed Vizcaya. In them are presented the domestic aspirations and the architectural ideals of such diverse personalities as Frank Lloyd Wright, William Randolph Hearst, Thomas Jefferson, George Washington, Franklin D. Roosevelt, the Lees, the Vanderbilts, and many more.

_________________________________

FOREWORD
The late Merrill Folsom once wrote of the "special mansion in the heart of every man" — the privilege to build imaginatively for oneself as the completion of the American dream. With the advance of the new millennium this special dream is still cherished by most Americans; and for many — both men and women alike — it is becoming a reality. A booming economy and growing computer age are largely responsible; it is now even possible to search for homes and obtain a mortgage online. As newspapers indicate, today's creative householders may also purchase thousands of dollars worth of valuable furnishings with the click of a mouse. These new trends mark a major contrast to former years, when the nation's elite made frequent trips abroad to buy furniture, doors, ceiling, artwork, collectibles and, on rare occasions, the entire home itself. Yet despite the changes that are rapidly occurring in America's style of living, the mansions and plantations of yesterday remain an integral part of our diverse cultural heritage and an everlasting reminder that the best things in the world often begin with years of planning.

The builders of yesterday were of all types and backgrounds. Some were educated and genteel, some were illiterate and uncouth, many were self-made and more than a few were women. A goal that many shared was a desire to impress friends and business rivals with elegance and size, and of course the finest architect money could buy. For the most ambitious, the intention was to leave a legacy for future generations. Marjorie Post spent a lifetime turning her home into a public repository of Russian art, while collector of Americana, Electra Havemeyer Webb. recreated an entire village. Transportation magnate Henry E. Huntington, owner of the largest private library in America, summed up a common attitude when he stated: "The ownership of a fine home, a fine collection and a fine library is the swiftest and surest way to immortality." Today, over 2,000 scholars per year use the Huntington Library's research material — testimony to the late travel magnate's statement.

Not to be forgotten are the architects who brought to fruition the magnificent and original designs of these homes, using the singular opportunities provided them by America's elite to create legends of their own. Richard Morris Hunt (1828-95), considered the nation's most respected architect of the Gilded Age, designed and executed some of the most fabulous mansions in this volume, including the Breakers, Marble House and George Vanderbilt's Biltmore. Most persons of wealth considered a home designed by him to be a badge of social position. Hunt's predecessors were equally creative, particularly Benjamin Latrobe (1766-1820) and Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826), who also happened to be this nation's third President. Long before he drafted the Declaration of Independence, Jefferson, whose lifelong passion was architecture, helped draw up detailed plans to remodel the governor's palace at Williamsburg. His beloved home, Monticello, was a singular achievement sixty years in the making. Women also played a major role in the planning of the nation's great homes. Julia Morgan, who designed the Hearst Castle (photo above) between 1919-1939, worked eighteen-hour days and left a legacy of over 700 buildings. Isabella Stewart Gardner was the principal in overseeing the design of the Gardner Museum in Boston's Fenway Court, and Alva Vanderbilt, wife of George Vanderbilt, worked directly with architects in overseeing the design of Newport's Marble Palace — which under her jurisdiction later became a center for suffragettes.

Amidst a variety of theories, Merrill Folsom once expressed the belief that a true mansion must be "the brick-mortar-and-timber image of a fascinating person or family." In keeping with the original author's viewpoint, Hastings House has been careful to select former homes that are not only large and luxurious, but also contain a unique historical and inspirational element behind them. The choices were difficult, owing to the incorporation of choice pieces from the author's late More Great American Mansions (1967) with the finest stories from his first edition. Five new stories have been added: The White House of the Confederacy, Vermont's Shelburne Farms and Shelburne Museum, Tennessee's Belle Meade Plantation (formerly the nation's largest Thoroughbred Stud), and the Lockwood-Matthews Mansion, considered one of Connecticut's most treasured historic sites. Each story is filled with historical drama, with special emphasis on the biographical element that Folsom considered to be of unique importance. All mansions represented in this volume are open to the public, with websites and travel directions provided to the reader.

Le Corbusier, the famous French architect, said "I am like a lightning conductor — I attract storms." So it is with interesting persons in public life, and so it is with pacesetting homes. Thanks to a widely assorted group of benefactors and the ongoing efforts by preservationists, many of the nation's most outstanding mansions have been saved from certain destruction. It is to those spirited individuals whom this volume is finally dedicated, as well as the public who continues to care about its past.

Rachel Borst
Editor

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PENNSYLVANIA'S AMISH COUNTRYSIDE

A SLOW MEANDER THROUGH PENNSYLVANIA'S AMISH COUNTRYSIDE...A daytrip into the distant past

Hello! Earl Steinbicker here. Usually I write about Daytrips in Europe, but this time I've selected one right here in my own backyard. Well, almost — it's about a 60-mile drive from home. This is a really relaxing, laid-back tour through pastoral countryside, just an hour's journey from Philadelphia. Along the way you'll meet some truly fascinating folks and experience a bit of an unusual life style.

This self-guided trip was taken directly from the pages of my Daytrips Pennsylvania Dutch Country & Philadelphia guidebook, but updated and with color added. It can also be done by bicycle. Don't forget to bring along a hearty appetite!

This is a cow

Heart of the Amish Countryside

From the sublimely bucolic to the ridiculously tacky, this drive covers a wide, wide range of Pennsylvania Dutch Country experiences — all within a short distance of Lancaster, and completely feasible as a daytrip from Philadelphia. Along the way you'll encounter some of the most gorgeous scenery in the world, which more than compensates for the patches of shameless tourist traps near the beginning and end. Even scattered among these lurk some real gems that are just too good to miss.

Relax, take it easy, and drive slow. There are quite a few attactions along the way, but none as important as the setting itself. Why not pull over to the side of the road and take a walk along country lanes, drinking in the delicious sights and exchanging greetings with the friendly folks you'll meet? And for that matter, why stick to the suggested route? Driving down some of the side roads may lead to serendipitous discoveries — especially north of Route PA-340. For the physically ambitious, this trip makes a wonderful bicycle excursion. The terrain is rolling, with a few moderate hills, and for the most part traffic is light.

GETTING THERE:

The starting point of this 25-mile-long scenic drive is about 11 miles southeast of Lancaster, along US-30 just east of Paradise. From Philadelphia, take US-30 west for about 58 miles, expecting congestion in the last few miles around Gap and Kinzers.

PRACTICALITIES:
Good weather is absolutely essential for this largely outdoor trip. Weekdays are preferred, as you'll encounter less traffic in the tourist areas. Several of the best attractions are closed on Sundays, and many in the off-season. Check the individual listings, remembering that the drive itself is the main attraction.

You may well encounter more horse-drawn buggies and farm vehicles than cars, so drive slowly and very, very carefully. Passing on the narrow roads should be done with great caution, being careful not to "spook" the horses by blowing your horn.

Taking photographs of Amish people in which they can be recognized is a violation of their religious beliefs concerning graven images, and is highly offensive. Please respect their privacy and avoid trespassing on their land.

Regional information is available from the Pennsylvania Dutch Convention & Visitors Bureau, just east of Lancaster at 501 Greenfield Road (at US-30), Lancaster, PA 17601, T: 717-299-8901 or 1-800-723-8824.

FOOD AND DRINK:
Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine means hearty servings of "comfort" foods like your great-grandmother used to make, often in large restaurants with communal seating and frequently no menus. This "family style" dining is just that — you sit with strangers, pass around the overflowing dishes, take all you want of whatever you want, and generally have a good time. Some establishments offer buffet or à la carte service at private tables instead. Be sure to try the shoofly pie — "chust this once." Most restaurants do not serve liquor, and some are closed on Sundays. Among the better choices are:

Plain & Fancy Farm (PA-340, 2 miles east of Bird-in-Hand) Fixed-price PA-Dutch meals served family-style in a large barn. Reduced price for children. No menu. Reservations suggested, T: 717-768-4400. $$
Good 'N' Plenty (PA-896, a half-mile south of PA 340, at Smoketown) An enormous family-style restaurant with copious servings of PA-Dutch favorites. Reduced price for children. T: 717-394-7111. X: Sun. $$
Miller's Smorgasbord (US-30, east of the intersection with N. Ronks Rd.) A fixed-price buffet with all you can eat. Special price for children. In business since 1929. Reservations are accepted, T: 717-687-6621. $$
Amish Barn Restaurant (PA-340, a mile east of Bird-in-Hand) Abundant PA-Dutch dishes are offered either à la carte or family style. T: 717-768-8886. X: Mon.-Wed. in Jan.-March. $
Bird-in-Hand Family Restaurant (PA-340 near Ronks Rd., Bird-in-Hand) PA-Dutch home cooking. X: Sun. T: 717-768-8266. $

For something different, you might try the restaurants in nearby Strasburg.

SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
CLICK ON MAP FOR LARGE PRINTABLE IMAGE

Where better to begin your trip than in Paradise (1)? Head about a mile east along US-30 from this small town, and turn north on Belmont Road. Suddenly, in just yards, all of the traffic and tourist traps disappear and you're out in the real countryside. Soon you'll come to Paradise Bridge (2), a delightful covered bridge built in 1893, also known as the Leaman Place or Eshelman's Mill Bridge. Before crossing it, pull over to the side of the road, get out, and wait for the first horse-drawn buggy to come along. You won't have to wait long. What an idyllic scene!

Ahead lies the village of Intercourse (3), whose curious name raises a few eyebrows — especially as the road from it leads to Paradise. Actually, its name probably refers to its location at the junction of what in the early 19th century were two main highways. In the mid-1950s an attempt was made to change the name, and a decade later a pornography publisher attempted to use it as a mailing address. Fortunately, both schemes failed. Once a delightful Amish settlement, Intercourse is today overrun with quainte gifte shoppes, but it does have at least one place of compelling interest, namely:

THE OLD COUNTRY STORE, Route 340, Intercourse, PA 17534, T: 1-800-828-8218. Open Mon.-Sat., 9-5, remaining open until 6:30 from June-Oct. Closed Sun., New Year's, Thanksgiving, Christmas. Free. Book shop. Craft shop.
You might want to visit this historic country store for two reasons. First, to shop for genuine local items created by Amish and Mennonite craftspersons, and second to visit the free People's Place Quilt Museum on the second floor. Here you can examine changing exhibitions of antique Amish and Mennonite quilts, mostly dating from the 19th and early 20th centuries. The store itself was established in 1833 and rebuilt in 1881 after a disastrous fire. Be sure to stroll the outdoor Story Walk on the west side of the building, which explains local history.

Poke around the other shops of Intercourse, then head north on PA-772 (Newport Road), following the map and occasionally making diversions from it as the mood strikes you. Continue north on Hess Road, turning left on East Eby Road. Here, on the right, you'll come to an old Amish Cemetery (4), whose gravestones can be read by peering over the fence. Turn left (south) on Stumptown Road, which soon brings you to the utterly delightful little hamlet of Mascot (5). Right at the intersection, a dam backs up the water of Mill Creek to provide water power for the local mill, as Amish lads fish in the stream. There's even a free place to park here, and not a commercial establishment in sight. But there are two marvelous free attractions:

*MASCOT ROLLER MILLS, Ronks, PA, T: 717-656-7616. Open May-Oct., Mon.-Sat. 9-4. Free.
Almost too picturesque to believe, the old Mascot Mill was built of stone in 1760 and continued operations until 1977. It was owned by three generations of the Ressler family from 1864 until the retirement of W. Franklin Ressler, who with his sister created the Ressler Mill Foundation to preserve this rural heritage for all time. A large enough endowment was left to pay for restoration, maintenance, and guides — which is why everything here is free. Stop in, watch the video, enjoy a demonstration of the working macinery, and examine the colorful old Mascot Post Office, unchanged since 1934.

The *Ressler Family House, next door to the mill, is equally intriguing, and is also open to visitors as part of the same foundation. It, too, is miraculously free. Everything here is as it  was; simple, practical, and well-loved by the many generations of the same family. Be sure to take the tour as this is the kind of place that's all too seldom encountered.

Continue west on Stumptown Road, making a left onto Gibbons Road at an especially attractive farm, and another left onto Beechdale Road. In about a half-mile, turn left again on Church Road, and left yet again on Weavertown Road. Finally, a right onto North Harvest Road brings you to the Old Philadelphia Pike, PA-340. To the left is the:

AMISH EXPERIENCE THEATER & AMISH COUNTRY HOMESTEAD (6), 3121Old Philadelphia Pike, Bird-in-Hand, PA 17505, T: 717-768-3600. Open daily Apr.-Nov., weekends Dec.-March, closed Thanksgiving and Christmas; Theater: daily Apr.-Dec., weekends Jan.-March. Homestead: Adults $7.95, children (4-12) $4.95. Theater: Adults $8.95, children (4-12) 5.95. Bargain combo tickets available.
Here visitors can discover how the Old Order Amish live today, without electricity but with surprising adaptations to contemporary life. The replica Homestead is authentically furnished, and affords a glimpse into a world you could hardly penetrate otherwise. The adjacent Amish Experience Theater tells the story of these remarkable people through the medium of a 30-minute multimedia production, intermingled with the drama of a modern Amish teenager's quest to discover himself.

Head west on PA-340, the old "King's Highway" of the early 18th century, possibly stopping at the Weavertown One Room Schoolhouse (7). This was a real country schoolhouse from 1877 until 1969, after which the teacher and students were replaced with realistic animated figures who put on an entertaining show. T: 717-768-4424. Open Apr.-Oct., daily 10-5, and weekends in March and Nov. Adults $4, children (4-12) $2.50.

Bird-in-Hand, which got its name from the sign of an early inn, is the next village. Just west of it is Abe's Buggy Rides (8), a concession that has been offering short two-mile rides in Amish horse-drawn buggies for over 35 years. T: 717-392-1794. Open Mon.-Sat., 8-dusk. Adults $10, children (3-12) $5.

Continue west, turning south on Oakview Road. Make a left onto US-30, a congested highway lined with outlet shops, fast-food eateries, strip malls, tourist traps of the worst kind, and — incredibly — on the right, the Mennonite Information Center (9), where you can learn more about the Amish and Mennonite ways of life. The center also offers a short film about the Mennonites, and tour guides who can lead you (in your car) to many out-of-the-way places not spoiled by commercialism. Adjacent to the center is the Hebrew Tabernacle Reproduction, an actual-size model of the ancient Tabernacle of Jerusalem described in the Bible, including the *Ark of the Covenant. 2209 Mill Stream Rd., Lancaster, PA 17602, T: 717-299-0954. Open Apr.-Oct., Mon.-Sat. 8-5; Nov.-March, Mon.-Sat. 8:30-4:30. Center free, tabernacle tours: Adults $6, seniors $5.50, children (7-12) $3.50. Tour guides $36 for 2 hours, each additional hour $12, reservations T: 1-800-858-8320.

Down the road, past the Dutch Wonderland Amusement Park, is the Discover Lancaster County History Museum (10). The name says it all — an audiovisual presentation of the county's history from the 1600s to the present, including an animated Amish Barn raising. T: 717-393-3679. Open daily all year. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year's. Adults $8.50, seniors $7.25, children (5-11) $5.25.
Continuing east on US-30 brings you to a final attraction, the:

AMISH FARM AND HOUSE (11), 2395 Lincoln Hwy. East (US-30), Lancaster, PA 17602, T: 717-394-6185. Open daily all year, 8:30-6 in summer, until 5 in spring and fall, closing at 4 in winter. Closed Christmas. Adults $7.25, seniors (60+) $6.50, children (5-11) $4.75. Gift shop. Snacks.
You won't meet any Amish at this commercial attraction, but otherwise it's a quite authentic presentation of their rural ways of life. Visits begin with a lecture and tour of the 10-room farmhouse, built around 1805 and simply furnished in the Old-Order Amish tradition. You can then explore the 25-acre farm with its barn, windmill, waterwheels, spring house, chicken coop, corn crib, lime kiln, blacksmith shop, and more. Live animals and growing crops add to the interest, as does the small museum.

Copyright © 2000 Earl Steinbicker. This chapter from Daytrips Pennsylvania Dutch Country & Philadelphia has been updated in 2006, modified slightly for web use, and has had color added.

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A DAYTRIP FROM MONTRÉAL

A DAYTRIP FROM MONTRÉAL...from primeval forests to quaint villages

Here's a sample chapter from the latest title in our Daytrips series of travel guides. Now available, Daytrips Québec describes 48 one-day adventures that can be taken from Montréal or Québec City, including walking tours within those cities. Although author Karen Desrosiers now lives in nearby New Hampshire, she is a direct descendant of one of the first settlers of Québec, and has traveled extensively throughout Canada, the U.S.A., and Europe.

Mont-Tremblant and Lac Tremblant

The villages and parklands of Mont-Tremblant offer all of the best that is available in Québec — from internationally renowned skiing to gourmet dining, from pretty villages to breathtaking waterfalls, from deep glacier lakes to dense pristine forests.

Spend a day in the wilds, hiking, swimming, and canoeing in the Mont-Tremblant Park. When you've had your fill of nature and you're ready to rrelax, retreat to one of the area's world-class villages.

GETTING THERE:
By Car, Parc du Mont-Tremblant is about 140 km (87 miles) from Montréal. Take Rte. 15 north from Montréal to the junction of Rte. 117, follow Rte. 117 to Rte. 327 in Saint-Jovite.

Turn right onto Rte. 327 and follow it north to Lac Tremblant. Turn right on Chemin Duplessis following signs for Lac Supérieur. At the intersection of the road from Saint-Faustin, turn left, following signs for the park.

Leave the park through the Saint-Faustin entrance. Go for nearly 3 miles, and then turn right, following signs for Lac Tremblant, returning along Chemin Duplessis.

Return along Rte. 327 to Saint-Jovite. Turn left onto Rte. 117 and continue to Rte. 15. Take Rte. 15 back to Montréal.

PRACTICALITIES:
In the summer, vivitors may want to bring along swimsuits and towels to take advantage of one of the lake's beaches. Shoes suitable for hiking are also recommended for some of the trails within the park.

Tourism information about the villages and resorts of Tremblant can be found on the Internet at Tremblant.com

The Bureau Touristique Saint-Jovite, 305 Chemin Brébeuf, Saint-Jovite, proudly expresses their goal "to satisfy our tourists and make them want to come back." T: (819) 425-3300. Open summer daily 9-7, winter daily 9-5.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Grand Manitou (at the summit of Mont-Tremblant) Have a snack or coffee in this cafeteria with a heart-stopping view. T: (819) 681-3000, $
Microbrasserie Saint-Arnould (435 Rue Paquette, Saint-Jovite) Microbrew beer, authentic regional cuisine, specializing in beer-flavored dishes. T: (819) 425-1262. $$
La Grappe à Vin (Vieux-Tremblant, Mont-Tremblant) Featuring gourmet European and Asiatic dishes. T: (819) 681-4727. $$ and $$$
Crêperie Catherine (Vieux-Tremblant, Mont-Tremblant) This crêpe house has one feature that's hard to come by in Québec — it's a non-smoking restaurant. T: (819) 681-4888. $$

SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
CLICK ON MAP FOR A LARGE PRINTABLE IMAGE.

PARC du MONT-TREMBLANT (1), Chemin du Lac Supérieur, Lac Supérieur, T: (819) 688-2281 or 1-800-665-6527. Open year-round. Admission $3.50 for adults, $5 for family of 1 adult with children, $7 for family of 2 adults with children. Equipment rental is available.

There are several legends surrounding the naming of this mountain — "Trembling Mountain." An Amerindian legend tells of the nature god who made the mountain tremble when man came. Another legend tells of the Algonquin naming the mountain "Manitonga Soutana" (Mountain of Spirits) because of the shaking caused by the many streams of water flowing down its sides.

This expanse of wilderness, stretching over more than 900 square miles of the Laurentides, is peppered with numerous lakes and scored by several rivers. A haven for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts, the park is home to moose, black bear, beaver, and wolves — the park's mascot. Visitors are treated to a wonderland for swimming, canoeing, hiking, and mountain biking during the summer, and cross-country skiing and snowshoeing during the winter.

Shortly after entering the park, Lac Monroe (2) appears on the left. This large, clear lake has a wide beach and aquatic activities. Across the street from the lake, a hiking trail leads to Lac Femmes and Lac Lauzon.

Road 1 follows the edge of Lac Monroe for a bit, offering beautiful views of the lake. The river winds along besides the Rivière du Diable, which snakes across the rugged terrain in tight twists and turns. The rocky river, sometimes swift, sometimes lazy, crosses the path of the road in several places.

Stop for a short hike, about a half-hour round trip, following the trail to the Devil's Falls (3). The path leads through the forest to a plank walkway and observation deck, overlooking the dark waters, which make a vertical drop to a deep pool before turning at a right angle and cascading farther down the hill.

The drive through the park offers many stunning views of forests, meadows, rivers, and lakes. The road criss-crosses with the river and is occasionally flanked by lakes on either side.

Leave the park through the same gate. Return along Chemin Duplessis, following the signs for Lac Tremblant.

On the shore of Lac Tremblant, the Mont-Tremblant  Ski Resort (4) comes into view like a fairytale village. The brightly-colored buildings, nestled at the foot of the ski slopes, invite visitors to get lost in the magical atmosphere. Note the quaint Roman Catholic church, with a bright red roof, sitting quietly at the edge of the resort.

The resort climbs up the slope of the mountain base, in full and inviting layers, packed with retaurants, activities, and shopping. A free gondola whisks visitors between the lower and higher levels of the resort, affording exciting views of the pools and mini-golf.

In the warmer months, the resort's pedestrian zones are alive with entertainment and artists. Strollong musicians, parades, concerts, and circus shows are a delight for everyone.

A panoramic gondola carries visitors and thrill-seekers up the slopes of Mont-Tremblant for a breath-taking view of the valley, resorts, and villages. An observation tower offers a 360° view of the area. Other activities at the summit include a labyrinth, outdoor adventure course, climbing wall, hiking, and wildlife observation. T: (819) 681-3000. Running late May to mid-June, Sat.-Sun 10:30-4:30; mid-June to mid-Sept., daily 10:30-5; mid-Sept. to mid-Oct., daily  9:30-5. Admission starts at $13.65 for adults, $10.65 for children 6-17, children 5 and under are free.

Lac Tremblant (5), stretching out beside the forest like a long, narrow finger, is lined with impressive homes. Famous for its clean water and tasty fish, the lake also provides several beaches and a number of water sports. Guided scenic cruises, Quai Fédéral, of the lake provide glimpses of these luxurious estates, the neighboring forest, and Mont-Tremblant. T: (819) 425-1045. Cruises depart July to mid-Oct., Tues.-Thurs. 11-7:30, Fri.-Mon. 11-4. Duration 1 hour and 15 minutes. Cost $15 for adults, $6 for children 15 and under, children 5 and under are free.

Near the quai, note the Décharge-du-Lac, a tributary of the Diable River that twists away from the lake in a series of waterfalls and whirlpools.

Follow the road to the right, around the end of Lac Tremblant, into the Ville de Mont-Tremblant, which was formed in November 2000 by the merging of several municipalities.

Mont Tremblant Village (6) rests on the shore of Lac Tremblant and Lac Mercier. The picturesque mountain village is well known for its scenic main street and fine dining. Artist studios, galleries, and boutiques will delight art lovers and shoppers.

Regional artisans display their unique, fun and fancy wares at Métiers d'Art en Nord, 1982 Chemin Principal. T: (819) 681-7474. Open year-round, Sun.-Mon. and Wed.-Fri. 10-5:30, Sat. 10-6, closed on Tues.

Mont-Tremblant Activities, 2001 Chemin Principal, arranges a wide variety of activities for outdoors and sports buffs. In the winter the friendly crew schedules trips for dogsledding, snowmobiling, and ice climbing. In the summer months, ask them about whitewater rafting, A.T.V. tours, and canoeing.

For a thrilling adventure, try an airborne tour with Aviation Wheelair, 399 Chemin Principal. Get a bird's-eye view of the area by seaplane. T: (819) 425-5662. Tours run year-round, daily 9-8 by reservation. Guided tour lasts 20 minutes. Rates $52.50 per person, $157.50 for families with two adults and up to three children.

After a full day of outdoor activity, pamper yourself at Le Scandinave Swedish-style spa, 555 Montée Ryan. The spa features a Finnish sauna, steam baths, waterfall and river bathing, and Swedish massage. T: (819) 425-5524. Open year-round, daily 12-9 by reservation. Admission to baths $38. Massages start at $97.50.

Take Route 327 out of Mont-Tremblant Village. Note Lac Ouimet as you pass. Continue on Route 327 to the junction of Route 117 in Saint-Jovite (7). This charming little resort town has been incorporated into the Mont-Tremblant Village municipality.

LES JARDINS de MIREILLE (8), 495 Route 327 South, T: (819) 425-2544. Open June-Oct. 9-5. Admission $7 for adults and children 12 and older, children under 12 are free.
This stunning flower garden will delight visitors with the panoramic views, paths for strolling, and places to relax on the six-acre property. The aquatic garden features splendid waterfalls.

Copyright © 2006 Karen Desrosiers. This chapter from Daytrips Québec was slightly modified for web use, and has had color added.

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