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November 07, 2010
Daytrips From London
The operative word in the title of this new guidebook is "From." Because if ever a place was made for daytripping, it is England. Basing yourself in London puts you within easy striking distance of many of Europe's most desirable attractions, where language is no problem and getting around on your own as simple as it is back home. This book takes a fresh look at 47 of the most intriguing destinations within daytrip range of London, describing in step-by-step detail a pleasurable way of exploring them on self-guided walking tours.
Walking is by far the best way to probe most places. Not only is it undeniably healthy, but it also allows you to see the sights from a natural, human perspective, spending just as much or as little time on each as you please. The carefully tested walking tours take you past all of the attractions worth seeing without wasting time, effort, or money. Which of these you actually stop at is up to you, but you won't have any trouble finding them with the large, clear maps provided. There is never a need to rush as you'll have plenty of time for each walk, even taking rest stops along the way.
The destinations should appeal to a wide variety of interests. Besides the usual cathedrals, castles, art galleries, and stately homes there are such attractions as country walks, maritime museums, canals, Roman ruins, places where history happened, places of literary association, quaint fishing villages, great seaports, resorts, elegant spas, and even some ever-so-British railfan trips. Not only do these reflect a delightful sense of the past, but several of the daytrips also expose you to the excitement of a changing Britain as it finds its new role within Europe.
Dining (and drinking) well is a vital element in any travel experience. For this reason, a selection of particularly enjoyable restaurants and pubs along the walking routes are included for every daytrip. These are price-keyed, with an emphasis on the medium-to-low range, and have concise location descriptions making them easy to find. Along with a telephone number, there is frequently an Internet site listed where you can view menus in advance.
Every trip can be made by rail and by car as well. Specific transportation information is given in the “Getting There” section of each daytrip, and general information in the “Getting Around Southern England” chapter.
Time and weather considerations are important, so they're included in the “Practicalities” section of each trip. These let you know, among other things, on which days the sights are closed, when the colorful outdoor farmers' markets are held, and which places should be avoided in bad weather. The location, telephone number, and Internet site of the local Tourist Information Centre is also given in case you have questions.
Most of the attractions have an entrance fee, as indicated in the text. These are, of course, subject to change slightly, but the listings will at least provide a guide to anticipated expenses. Cathedrals and churches depend on small donations in the collection box to help pay their maintenance costs, so it is only fair to leave some change when making a visit.
In addition to entrance fees, most of the attraction listings also include opening times, a telephone number, and an Internet site.
Be aware that places have a way of changing without warning, and errors do creep into print. If your heart is absolutely set on a particular sight, just check first to make sure that it isn't closed for renovations, or that the opening times are still valid. The local tourist centres are always the best source of such up-to-the-minute information.
One last thought — it isn't really necessary to see everything at any given destination. Be selective. Your one-day adventures around England should be fun, not an endurance test. If it starts becoming that, just stroll over to the nearest café, tea shop, or pub and enjoy yourself. There will always be another day.
No other guidebook to England offers as many destinations for pleasurable do-it-yourself one-day trips, and certainly not to so many fresh, new discoveries!
Practical information covered includes London as Your Base, Food & Drink, When to Go, Money Matters, Telephones, Internet, Suggested Tours, Outstanding Attractions, Tourist Information, Getting Around Southern England by Rail or Car, and Railpasses.
This book is also available from Amazon in Great Britain for £13.50, and from Amazon in Europe for €15.50.
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January 29, 2010
Daytrips Companion Guide to Switzerland & Liechtenstein
The mountains and lakes, the small towns and remote villages of Switzerland have attracted discerning travellers for centuries past. Its singular combination of Alpine wildness and vigorous independence will assure it a special place in the affections of as many travellers to come. As the crossing point from Italy to the rest of Europe for 2,000 years, Switzerland has gained from an extraordinary cultural cross-fertilization, making it a rich repository of European civilization — architecture, language, religion and history. It has remained a many-sided country, by turns sunny and meridional, wild and northern, Italianate, Teutonic, French, Protestant, Catholic; all these elements can be seen separately, but it is their interaction and fusion which have made the present Switzerland and its people.
This book is a detailed introduction, prefaced by essential background, to all the most popular towns and villages. But in addition there is much information that few tourists would have picked up: out-of-the-way hamlets, quiet hotels, where to walk, eat or stay. James Bunting’s preference is unequivocally for what makes Switzerland unique rather than for expensive international cities or over-exploited resorts, and he goes to some lengths to explain why and how you should try and see the things he cares about as well as how to avoid the most ruthless tourist-traps.
First published in 1973, this timeless classic guide to the real Switzerland and Liechtenstein has been once again made available as an exact reproduction of the original volume, now a collector’s treasure. It is part of the Daytrips Companion series, complementing the popular Daytrips guidebooks published by Hastings House.
Contents
- List of Plates
- Acknowledgements
- Map
- Background
- The Forest Cantons
- The Berner Oberland
- Geneva and Canton Vaud
- The Valais and its Alps
- Tricino and the Southern Lakes
- The Grey People
- The Peaceful Principality
- The North East
- Zürich and Zug
- Between the Aare and the Rhine
- Bern and Neuchâtel
- Index
ISBN: 978-0-8038-2080-7
$16.95
Hastings House/Daytrips Publishers
P.O. Box 908, Winter Park, Florida 32790-0908
e-mail: [email protected]
Phone toll-free: 1-800-206-7822
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July 03, 2009
Daytrips Prague and the Czech Republic
Getting Around
The Czech Republic has a large network of roads linking every little town, village, hamlet and farm community, no matter how small. There is also a large network of rail lines that also connect most of these small communities with the larger metropolitan areas. And that is where the problems of rail travel in the Czech Republic lies.
It seems that each and every community is connected to every other one and the trains are determined to stop at them all. Thus, a trip from one town to another that might take 30 minutes by car or bus can take two or even three times as long by train. It is only on the main lines between Prague and a few other major cities that rail travel is quicker and more convenient. For all other travel, take a bus, or better yet, rent a car and use it to randomly explore the country. You will see more and have more fun doing it. Besides, many of the castles and other sights are located away from the towns so a car is often the only way to get to them.
Once you are in the towns, park your car — you won’t need it again until you leave for the next town or castle. Walking is by far the best way to see these places, and almost all the sites in town are grouped within a few blocks around the historical main square.
Do not use taxi service within Prague. The taxis are usually privately owned and under regulated. A lot of the drivers do not know the city well and many have hidden buttons that can advance the pay rate unfairly. If you must use a taxi, arrange the fee before boarding and get it in writing.
Air Travel:
Czechs do not travel by air within the country and very little within Europe itself, thus there are few International airports.
There are as many as 40 International airlines flying into Prague presently with more being added all the time. Prague’s Ruzyné Airport is large, clean, newly rebuilt and expanded and very efficient, if any airport can be deemed efficient. The airport is located just 15 kilometers from the city center. Fast, cheap bus service will whisk arriving passengers to the end of the Metro line in less than 15 minutes where you can catch a subway train and be in the heart of the city within another five minutes.
Rail Travel:
There are four train stations in Prague, the main station is Hlavní Nádraží and is conveniently located near the center of the city. Holešovice, Smíchovské and Masarykovo Nádraží are scattered around the city but all are located on at least one of the Metro lines. If arriving in Prague by rail from almost anywhere inside or outside the country, take note of which station you will be arriving at. Often the station you leave from on a round-trip is not the one you will arrive back at, which can be confusing.
The CD or, České Dráhy is the government Rail Service, owned and operated by the State. There are four levels of rail travel: the EC which is an international express, the EX which is the national express service, the Osobní, which are very slow and stop at almost every station imaginable and finally, the Rychlík or express trains which run between the larger towns and cities without stopping at ALL the little towns. This is the train to look for if traveling by rail in the Czech Republic.
There is a Travel Information Center located in each station in Prague and are extremely helpful to rail travelers. English is spoken and the personnel are more than willing to help you with train schedules and connections. You will need them! Use them!
First Class tickets guarantee you a seat; otherwise it can be a mad scramble of pushing, swearing and shoving to reach the first available seats. On-the-spot fines are levied if you are caught in the wrong carriage but make sure the person demanding payment is an actual Rail employee. Look for their badge and photo I.D..
Bus Travel:
The main bus station is located at Florenc on the Red Metro line. Buses bound for every town, city and village in the country as well as anywhere in Europe can be caught here. Ticket sellers do not speak English but there are English speaking personnel at the Information wickets. Bus travel in the Czech Republic is safe, fast, frequent, inexpensive and comfortable. For most routes, a roundtrip ticket can be purchased to save money; however, you do need to know when you wish to return as seats are sometimes reserved.
Buy your ticket inside the station where a seat will be assigned, otherwise if purchased at the gate, you may have to stand if the coach is full. There is no extra cost involved for reserving a seat.
By Car:
Rental cars are available in Prague with most of the larger rental companies represented as well as a few local ones. The best place to rent is at Prague’s Ruzyné Airport. Arrange to pick up your car after you have finished exploring Prague. There is no need to have a car in the city, parking is almost non-existent and the drivers are just plain nuts. Wait until you are ready to explore the rest of the country, where at least a few drivers acknowledge the presence of traffic laws and speed limits.
Czech roads are almost without exception in very good shape, albeit narrower, hillier and much windier than North Americans are generally used to. Many of the roads are less then two lanes wide and few have shoulders. Luckily, few have ditches either and it is a simple matter to pull off into a field if necessary to avoid oncoming traffic. Stay on your own side at all times, even though most of the smaller roads do not have center lines.
There are only three divided superhighways in the country, the E50/D5, which runs from the German border in the west, through Prague and Brno and then exits as the E50/D2 southeast into Austria.
The E55/D8 runs from Dresden in the north down to Prague, the E462/D1 runs within the country from Brno to Olomouc.
Seatbelts must be worn at all times and children are not allowed in the front seat if under 12. An International Driving license is not needed for North Americans or Europeans but is for Australians and New Zealanders.
On the highways, the speed limit is 130 kph (80 mph), 90 kph (55 mph) on smaller roads and 50 kph (30mph) in towns and cities. Watch for roadblocks and check stops by the police. These are nothing to be concerned about and they will often just wave you through once they realize you are a tourist. If they do wish to inspect your vehicle, be polite and friendly. They will reciprocate. Do not drink and drive.
Metro/Tram Travel in Prague:
Travel within Prague has got to be the deal of the century. Not only is it fast, convenient and safe, but it is also extremely inexpensive.
Upon arrival and before leaving the airport or train station, search out a city travel booth and purchase a Metro Pass. These can be bought in single trip, 24 hour, 72 hour, weekly or monthly passes. A three- or seven-day pass is the cheapest and allows you unlimited access to all trams, subways and buses within the city, including the inclined railway up Petrin Hill.
Frequent spot checks are performed by plain-clothes and uniformed police on subway cars or platforms and also on the trams and buses. Plain-clothes police will show you a badge before demanding to see your pass or ticket, and an on-the-spot fine will be levied if your ticket is invalid or expired.
The first time you enter a Metro station or climb on board a bus or tram, look for a yellow box and stamp your ticket once. It is valid from that point forward. Do not re-stamp your ticket as this will invalidate it.
Beer, Food and (More) Beer In Czech:
The Czechs are immensely proud of their beer, and justifiably so. With more than 300 brands of beer to choose from, they take their drinking seriously. Czech brewers brought the world Budweiser and Pilsner beers, which the American beer companies promptly stole, or at least the names, if not the taste.
The Czech Republic produces more than 18 million hectoliters (1,800,000,000 liters) of beer per year and exports just two million hectoliters. That leaves 16 million hectoliters to be consumed each year by a population of only 10 million people. And a lot of tourists. Yes! The Czechs know beer.
Czech cuisine is not on the level of their beer, however. About the only universally known Czech food is Goulash, and that they share with Hungary and a couple other Slavic countries.
Beef and pork is usually served very simply with boiled potatoes, dumplings or rice. Few spices are used and although good and filling, there isn’t much that is exciting. Breads of all sorts are a staple of the Czech diet. In restaurants it is usual to be brought a basket of breads without requesting it. If you don’t want it you may ask to have it taken away or simply ignore it. Either way, you shouldn’t be charged for it. Look for a charge for Brot if you happen to get an itemized bill.
When ordering a meal, be aware that other than the meat, everything else is ordered and charged individually, including potatoes, rice, salad and any other vegetables. The costs are very reasonable however and a good meal complete with soup, beer or wine can be had for a very small amount.
The viniculture industry in the Czech Republic is making great strides in producing some very good wines with the reds slightly edging out the whites in quality. While certainly not to the standards of French, German and other wines, they can still be very enjoyable and should not be lightly dismissed.
Restaurants, cafés and pubs do not expect you to simply finish your meal and then leave. It is common to sit around and talk, for hours if you wish, with no one minding. The bill will not be brought to you until requested and will generally be tallied at your table. Tipping is not expected but if you have a few coins returned after paying your bill, you may leave them if you wish but shouldn’t be more than one or two percentage points.
Practicalities:
I have included in each chapter, the addresses of the Tourist Information Centers of the towns visited. Almost without exception, each town has put their Info Center in the Main Square and erected a green “I” sign outside, so they are very easy to spot. Nearly every Daytrip listed begins in the Main Square.
When to Go:
It is best to travel between mid-May and late October as far as weather is concerned, although Prague can become stifling in July and August and the hoards of tourists that flock to the city can get irritating. Try not to be in the city on a weekend as cheap flights and cheaper beer draw hundreds of drunks and hooligans from all over the U.K.
Holidays:
Few tourist sites are open on Mondays or the following holidays.
- New Years Day
- Easter Monday
- May Day-May 1
- Day of Liberation from Fascism - May 8
- Day of the Slavonic Missionaries, Methodious and Cyril - July 5
- Jan Hus Death - July 6
- Day of Czech Statehood - September 28
- Founding of the independent Czechoslovakia - October 28
- Day of Struggle for Freedom - November 17
- Christmas Holidays - December 24-26
Money Matters:
Few, if any banks, stores or restaurants still honor Travelers Cheques, so don’t bother with them as the banks charge extra for cashing them in. ATM machines abound in the Czech Republic; you can find several in even the smallest town. You will get a better exchange rate using these than you would at a bank.
All major credit cards are acceptable in Prague, in most establishments. Look for the stickers of your particular card pasted on the door or window. Debit cards are not often accepted for food purchases in cafés, pubs or restaurants although they are accepted at service stations.
Telephones and Communications:
Pay phones are available everywhere in Czech but due to the language barrier it can be difficult to converse over the phone with stores, restaurants and all but the largest hotels. Pre-paid phone cards are the simplest way to make international calls, although coin-operated phones are also prevalent. Internet cafés can be found in most towns and almost all Tourist Information Centers have either free or very cheap internet service.
Beware of using the internet at the Tourist Center in Karlovy Vary. The costs are extortionate.
Suggested Tours:
Most of the walking tours in this book are relatively short and easy to follow. The tours for Prague generally start at a Metro or tram stop or are a continuation of the previous Daytrip.
Daytrips in towns and cities outside of Prague usually begin in the Historic Town Square. Train and bus stations are not always close to the town centers so wherever this will be a problem, I have tried to offer alternatives.
Free maps of each town in the book are available in the local Tourist Info Center, usually located in the Main Square. For some reason however, Center personnel are strangely reluctant to display or hand out brochures of local attractions, so if you don’t know something is available it can be difficult to ask for it.
Although I spent several months exploring the Czech Republic, all of the tours in this book can be accomplished in three weeks or less of fairly leisurely travel, particularly if you choose to drive yourself. Remember, the country is only 300 miles long by 175 miles wide.
Most of the individual tours can be accomplished in a few hours of casual strolling, depending on how many and how long your side excursions and stops at each church, cathedral or museum is. Meals and pub stops can also encroach on your time, although they are encouraged throughout the book if for no other reason than to let you better take in a particular square or site.
As of this writing, opening times and admission prices are accurate but may change somewhat between writing and publishing. It is best to ask at the local Information Center before heading off somewhere too far.
Advance Planning Information:
Czech Tourist Authority
95 Great Portland St, London, W1W 7NY, UK,
Phone: 44 20 72 91 99 25
Email: [email protected]
Czech Tourist Authority
1109 Madison Avenue, New York, New York, 10028, USA
Phone: 1-212-288-0830
Email: [email protected]
Czech Tourist Authority
401 Bay Street, Suite 1510, Toronto, Ontario M5H 2Y4, Canada
Phone: 1-416-363-9928
Email: [email protected]
Copyright © 2009 Don Wilkinson
ISBN: 978-0-8038-2074-6
$21.95
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June 13, 2009
Hampton Court, London
Trip 10
London
Hampton Court
Henry VIII's great royal palace on the Thames is one of London's premier attractions. First built from 1515-22 for the ostentatious Cardinal Wolsey, it was confiscated in 1528 by Henry VIII upon Wolsey’s decline in power. The king spent ten years and ₤62,000 remodeling the building to suit royal occupation. Succeeding monarchs (and Oliver Cromwell!) enjoyed its luxury right down to the death of George II in 1760. Significant alterations made by the famed architect Sir Christopher Wren during the reign of William III added Baroque elements to the original Tudor structure. No longer used by royalty, the palace and its magnificent gardens were opened to the public in 1838 by Queen Victoria.
Like Versailles outside Paris, this royal complex easily takes the better part of a day to appreciate. Besides the enormous palace, there are all sorts of gardens to explore, a slightly unnerving 18th-century maze to get lost in, and several square miles of parks to enjoy. If that isn't enough, you can also stroll along the Thames past working locks, soaking up the village atmosphere and perhaps stopping at a waterside pub.
GETTING THERE:
Trains to Hampton Court depart at half-hour intervals from London's Waterloo Station, with a journey time of about 30 minutes. Be sure to get a train to Hampton Court, not to Hampton. Return service operates until late evening. Schedules at W: SouthWestTrains.
Boats depart London's Westminster Pier, just opposite Parliament, several times in the morning for the 2.5-to-4-hour ride to Hampton Court. Return boats leave in the mid-to-late afternoon. This service operates from early April through September, T: (020) 7930-2062 or W: ThamesRiverBoats for current details.
Those coming by car will find limited pay parking near the entrance to the palace grounds. From London take the M25 to Exit 12, then the A308 to Hampton Court.
PRACTICALITIES:
Hampton Court Palace is open late March to late October, daily 10-6, closing at 4:30 in winter. It is closed December 24-26. Admission: Adults £14, seniors and students £11.50, children under 16 £7. There are several places to eat there (see below) as well as gift shops. Both the palace and the grounds are generally handicap accessible, ask a guard if you need help. Battery-powered cars for use in the gardens are available free of charge. Try to avoid the weekend or holiday crowds, and remember that good weather will greatly enhance your visit. For further information contact the palace office directly, T: (844) 482-7777 or W:
FOOD AND DRINK:
Landings Restaurant (Mitre Hotel, Hampton Court Bridge, just outside the main gate) Outdoor dining in a riverside garden. T: (020) 8979-9988. X: Sat. lunch. ££
Tiltyard Tea Room (near the maze in the gardens) Full meals, salad lunches, sandwiches, refreshments, and afternoon teas. £ and ££
Queen Elizabeth I's Privy Kitchen (in the palace) Light lunches, refreshments, and afternoon teas. £
SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
Hampton Court train station (1) is only yards from the River Thames. Stroll across the bridge to the Trophy Gates (2) on your right, built for William III as a grand entrance into the palace complex and later decorated by George II. Amble through them, purchase your ticket, and head straight across what's left of the moat. The stone bridge here was erected by Henry VIII, embellished with the “King's Beasts” stone carvings, and later buried by Charles II. Rediscovered in 1910, it once again gives proper access to the Great Gatehouse (3), one of the oldest parts of the palace.
Step through the doorway into the Base Court. Six different areas of the palace are open to visitors, each following a different route. Time and energy permitting, you should really see all six. Route 1 begins between the Base and Clock courts, leading upstairs to Henry VIII's *Tudor State Apartments (4). At the top is Henry's magnificent *Great Hall, originally a dining room for lesser courtiers. It is still hung with priceless 16th-century tapestries depicting the Story of Abraham. Look up at the 60-foot-high hammerbeam ceiling, every inch of which is enriched with gilded carvings, before continuing on to the Great Watching Chamber. The King's bodyguards once kept their watch here, surrounded by opulence. The route now enters the Haunted Gallery, where with luck you might encounter the ghost of Catherine Howard. Number five of Henry's six wives, she was beheaded for adultery in 1542, as was number two. Near the end is the elaborate Chapel Royal, much of which survives from the time when Henry and his wives, especially his wives, prayed there.
Route 2 begins in the Clock Court and takes you through the Queen's State Apartments (5). Again reached by an impressive staircase, this Baroque addition was designed for Queen Mary II by Sir Christopher Wren in the 1690s. Unfortunately, the queen died before they were finished, so the decorations are largely those of succeeding reigns. Among the highlights are the Audience Chamber with its canopied throne, the Drawing Room of Queen Anne, the Bedchamber with the original bed of George II's Queen Caroline, and the Queen's Gallery with its Brussels tapestries and lovely Delftware.
The Georgian Rooms (6), shown on Route 3, are entered from the Clock Court. This group of smaller rooms sheds some insight into the lives of George I and George II, the last monarchs to reside at Hampton Court. Near the beginning is “Wolsey's Closet,” a survival from Tudor times that was probably decorated by Henry VIII. After that there is the Communication Gallery, hung with the “Windsor Beauties” portraits of the ladies of Charles II's court. In the center of the suite is the famed Cartoon Gallery, built by Wren for William III around 1700. Original tapestry cartoons designed by Raphael in 1515 once hung on these walls, but they are now in the Victoria and Albert Museum. In their place are copies made here in the 18th century.
Route 4, reached from the Clock Court by yet another grandiose staircase, takes you through the King's Apartments (7). Built for William III between 1689 and 1700, these handsome chambers were devastated by fire as recently as 1986, but have now been restored to their original condition. The allegorical paintings decorating the stairs sing thinly-veiled praises to the king, and are set off by a magnificent wrought-iron balustrade. Pass through the Guard Chamber, whose paneled walls are enlivened with over 3,000 arms placed there in the 17th century by the king's gunsmith. The Presence Chamber still has its canopied throne, bowed to by courtiers even when unoccupied. Going through the Privy Chamber and the Withdrawing Room brings you to the elaborate Great Bedchamber, and the adjacent Little Bedchamber where the king actually slept. Downstairs, on the ground floor, are William III's private apartments, a cozy suite beautifully restored to its original condition.
Part of the original Tudor palace of the early 16th century, the Wolsey Rooms (8) shown on Route 5 feature the *Renaissance Picture Gallery of fine paintings on loan from Queen Elizabeth II. Among its treasures is a painting of Henry VIII's meeting with King François I of France in 1520 and a delightful scene of The Four Evangelists Stoning the Pope — probably Henry's favorite work of art.
Cross the Clock Court to enter the *Tudor Kitchens (9) on the final Route 6. Laid out in preparation for a great feast, this is a real treat for anyone who loves food. Two hundred people labored here feeding the 800-odd members of Henry VIII's court. A recorded audio guide describing everything may be borrowed at the Information Center in Clock Court, making your visit all the more enjoyable. And, should you feel pangs of hunger yourself, there is a nearby Tudor-style snack bar.
Outdoors, the Privy Garden (10) was originally William III's private garden and was restored in 1995. Close to it is the Pond Garden (11) of Henry VIII, and the lavishly-decorated Banqueting House built in 1700 by Sir Christopher Wren as an intimate party place for William III. The Mantegna Gallery, housed in a former orangery, contains valuable paintings belonging to the present Queen. Planted nearby in 1768, the Great Vine (12) still produces grapes as it has for well over two centuries.
Behind the palace complex stretches Home Park, offering wonderful views of the buildings and the River Thames. It's a long walk to the end, but at least go as far as the nearby Fountain Garden (13) for the best perspective.
Stroll past the so-called Tudor Tennis Courts (14), where “real” tennis may be watched if it's open, through the Wilderness, and around to Queen Anne's Maze (15) of 1714. Deceptively simple but fiendishly conceived, this confusing route through the hedges traps most who enter. If every turn just brings you back to the same place (and it will!), you can always follow behind small children, who have an uncanny knack for finding their way out. Knights once jousted in Henry VIII's Tiltyard (16), but today it is home to a restaurant and cafeteria.
Northeast of the Palace Grounds is Bushy Park (17), designed by Wren as a grand approach to his planned north façade that never got built. Deer roam around this near-wilderness, and so can you.
Just across from the palace is Hampton Court Green (18), where Sir Christopher Wren lived in the Old Court House from 1706 until his death in 1723. Ambling around the green will reveal several other period houses.
Before heading back to London, you might want to wander along the south bank of the Thames to Molesey Lock (19) to watch pleasure boats working their way through. The river is no longer tidal at this point, and quite a bit narrower than it is downstream. There are several appealing riverside pubs in the area where you can relax before taking the train back.
Copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009
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