Visitors to the French Riviera can rejoice in this delightful daytrip to one of the most gorgeous spots on Earth. This is another complete free chapter from our travel guidebook Daytrips France, and Èze is easily reached in minutes from Nice or Monaco. Enjoy!
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Trip 38
Èze
Looking down from a rocky perch high above the Mediterranean, the incredibly picturesque village of Èze draws a steady stream of visitors to its enchanted site. Add to the spectacular setting the fact that it's right on the road linking Nice with Monaco and you have the makings of a classic tourist trap. Fortunately, Èze survives the onslaught with grace and offers many hidden charms to those who will seek them out.
Èze's history goes back to pre-Roman times, when it was an ancient Ligurian oppidum, most likely established by the Phoenicians. A Roman highway, the Haraklean Way, passed by here as the area entered into four centuries of peace under the Pax Romana. During the Dark Ages Èze, weakened by famine and plague, was taken over by the Saracens, whose rule lasted into the 19th century. Following liberation under William, Count of Provence, the village prospered and in 1860 became a part of France.
There are no famous sights or great museums in Èze, just the delightfully medieval pedestrian lanes carved into the rocky mountainside, the ancient stone buildings and, above all, the fantastic views over the Mediterranean. This is the perfect place to unwind, perhaps sitting at a café and absorbing the atmosphere, or visiting the many tiny craftsmen's shops in search of an unusual souvenir.
GETTING THERE:
Buses depart the bus station (Gare Routière) on Boulevard Jean-Jaurès in Nice fairly frequently for Èze, a stop on the route to Monaco. Be sure to get on one bound for Èze-Village, not Èze-Bord-de-Mar (Èze-sur-Mer), and try to sit on the right-hand side of the bus to enjoy the spectacular views.
Trains connect Èze-sur-Mer, a sea-level village well below the hill town, with Nice and virtually all other places along the Riviera. From there you would have to climb up some 1,200 feet on a rocky path, or take a roundabout route by bus or cab. You might want to return this way, however.
By Car, Èze is about 11 km (7 miles) northeast of Nice on the N-7 Moyenne Corniche road. Traffic is often congested along here, so allow enough time — and enjoy the fantastic views. There is a large parking lot at the entrance to the village.
Aerial photo (above) courtesy of Office Municipal du Tourisme d'Èze.
PRACTICALITIES:
Good weather is essential for enjoyment of this trip, which can be made on any day or in any season. The Local Tourist Office, T: 04-9341-2600 or W: eze-riviera.com, is by the parking lot.
FOOD AND DRINK:
You won't go hungry — or thirsty — in Èze, given its numerous restaurants and cafés. Just a few of the better choices are:
Le Remparts, Château de la Chèvre d'Or (Rue Barri, near the southeast corner of the village) Renowned for its regional cuisine in a pretty setting. Lunch only in high season. Reservations needed, T: 04-9210-6666. €€€+
Le Grill du Château (Rue Barri, as above) The slightly less expensive restaurant of the renowned Château de la Chèvre d'Or. Reserve, T: 04-9341-0017. X: Sun. eve., Mon., mid-Feb. to early March. €€€
Troubador (Rue du Brec, a block south of the church) Traditional French cuisine in a typical 16th-century house. Reserve, T: 04-9341-1903. X: mid-Nov. to late Dec. €€ and €€€
Bistrot Loumiri (Ave. Jardin Exotique, on the way into the village) A good-value choice. Reservations suggested, T: 04-9341-1642. X: Mon.-Tues. €€
SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
Whether you came by bus or by car, you'll be starting out at the parking lot at Place Général de Gaulle (1). From here it's an uphill stroll along Avenue Jardin Exotique and into Èze-Village, as the upper town is properly known. The sole entrance is by the ancient 14th-century fortified gateway (Porte Fortifiée). Continue on through the tiny, stepped stone streets, turning right onto Rue du Brec, becoming Rue de l'Eglise. This leads to the Parish Church (2), reconstructed in the Classical style in 1772. Within its Baroque interior is a fine statue of the Assumption as well as a remarkable baptismal font. A reliquary below the altar contains the remains of Saint Germain, a martyr of the 4th century.
Return on Rue du Brec, passing the Local History Museum (3), a tiny place that is open only on request. T: 04-9210-6060. Now follow Rue Principale to Place du Planet, where you'll find the historic White Penitents' Chapel (4). Dating from the 14th century, it was the meeting place of the White Penitents brotherhood, who for centuries took care of burying Èze's dead, as well as taking care of its needy. The simple interior is decorated with fine religious art, both medieval and contemporary.
Now follow the route through the narrow alleyways, heading uphill to the famous *Tropical Gardens (Jardin Exotique) (5). Suspended some 1,400 feet above the blue Mediterranean, the garden offers a breathtaking *panorama over the tiled rooftops, the sea, and much of the Riviera. Established in 1949 around the ruins of a 14th-century castle that was destroyed in 1706 on orders from Louis XIV, the gardens are filled with many varieties of cacti and succulents, mostly from the Americas. T: 04-9341-1030. Open July-Aug., daily 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sept.-June, daily 9- 6 or 7. €.
Wander down through the village, picking your way through the tiny passageways and passing several craftsmen's shops, art galleries, boutiques, and souvenir shops. You'll also pass some inviting restaurants and cafés, many of which offer wonderful views from their outdoor terraces.
Before leaving Èze, you may wish to visit one of its perfume establishments. Parfumerie Fragonard (6), near the parking lot, has a perfume factory as well as a shop, both open to the public. T: 04-9341-0505 or W: fragonard.com. Visits April-Oct., daily 8:30-6:30; Nov.-March, daily 8:30-noon and 2-6. Free.
If you came by bus — and didn't buy a round-trip ticket — you may prefer to return by train instead. The Sentier Frédéric-Nietzsche (7) is a steep woodland path leading sharply down to the station at Èze-sur-Mer, from which trains run frequently to Nice and practically anywhere else on the Riviera. The great German philosopher Frederic Nietzsche worked out his masterpiece, Thus Spake Zarathustra, while hiking this trail; perhaps you'll be similarly inspired. Parts of it are rocky, so be sure you have adequate shoes, and allow a full hour for the 1,200-foot descent.
Copyright © 2005 by Earl Steinbicker. Slightly modified and updated for web use, with color added.
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While in Nice, you might enjoy a wonderful daytrip in the Lower Alps by narrow-guage rail. Click here for information.
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