Hastings House & Us

Mittenwald, Germany

As our newest guidebook Daytrips Bavaria is now available we are posting another complete chapter from it that was updated to Spring 2007 and contains much new information. Save it, print it out, and use it on your next trip to Munich or Innsbruck.

MITTENWALD

If you were asked to design a stage set for an Alpine romance, you could hardly do better than to copy Mittenwald. This dreamy resort on the Austrian border has everything — a rugged mountain peak rising vertically from its own back yard, colorfully painted houses lining the peaceful streets, and a rich musical heritage as the "Village of a Thousand Violins."

The latter is Mittenwald's chief industry, next to tourism. Once a prosperous trading post on the Venice-to-Augsburg road, its economy fell to ruin as traffic moved to other passes. Then, in the 17th century, an unlikely miracle happened. A local lad named Matthias Klotz (that's him on the left) had moved to Cremona, Italy, where he learned the art of violin making from the legendary Nicolo Amati. On his return in 1684 he founded the trade that now exports Mittenwald string instruments to the entire world.

Although not as high as Garmisch's Zugspitze, a ride up the Karwendal mountain at Mittenwald is a more satisfying experience as its summit is wide open, allowing good opportunities for hiking, climbing, or just playing in the snow.

GETTING THERE:

Trains bound for Innsbruck depart Munich's main station hourly for Mittenwald, a trip of less than 2 hours. Be sure to board the right car as some may be dropped off en route. Return service operates until early evening. Trains from Innsbruck are on the same route. Click here for current schedules.

By Car, Mittenwald is 103 km (64 miles) south of Munich. Take the A-95 Autobahn to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, then continue on the B-2 road. It is 37 km (23 miles) north of Innsbruck, Austria on the A-12, 177, and B-2 roads.

PRACTICALITIES:

Mittenwald is a year-round resort, but good weather is really necessary to enjoy it. You might want to bring along hiking shoes and a sweater for a romp in the snow atop the Karwendel — even in summer. The local Tourist Information Office, T: (08823) 339-81, is in to town hall at Dammkarstraße 3.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Some especially good restaurants and cafès are:

Arnspitze (Innsbrucker Str. 68, 2 blocks south of the bridge) Elegant dining in Mittenwald's best restaurant. For reservations T: (08823) 24-25. X: Tues., Wed. €€€

Alpenrose (Obermarkt 1, near the church) Noted for its traditional Bavarian food, especially game dishes. T: (08823) 927-00. €€

Hotel Rieger (Dekan-Karl-Platz 28, 3 blocks south of the church) A Bavarian-style inn with a good view of the mountains. T: (08823) 925-00. €€

Hotel Post (Obermarkt 9, just south of the church) A 17th-century Bavarian inn serving local dishes in a rustic setting. T: (08823) 938-2333. €

Additionally, you can dine, snack, or drink surrounded by glorious scenery atop the Karwendel Mountain.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the Train Station (1) and follow Bahnhofstraße to the Rathaus (Town Hall) (2), which houses the tourist office. You might want to ask there about current opening times for the Leutaschklamm (5), which has undergone significant changes lately. From here it is a short stroll to the stunning Baroque Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) (3). Built in the 18th century by the famous architect Josef Schmuzer, its beautifully frescoed tower and richly decorated interior are symbols of the town's prosperity. Note the ceiling images of angels playing stringed instruments. In front of it stands a statue (photo, above left) of Matthias Klotz making a violin.

A few steps down Ballenhausgasse brings you to the *Geigenbau und Heimatmuseum (Violin-Making and Folk-Life Museum) (4), recently reopened after a complete renovation. Step inside to view the process of making stringed instruments in a traditional workshop, and to examine some 200 examples of the craft. T: (08823) 25-11. Open Feb. through mid-March, mid-May through mid-Oct., mid-Dec. through early Jan., Tues.-Sun. 10-5; and early to late Jan., mid-March through mid-May, mid-Oct. through early Nov., Tues.-Sun. 11-4. Closed Mondays, Dec. 24 and Dec. 31. €.

Follow the map along a street called Im Gries to see the oldest houses in Mittenwald, among which are some outstanding examples of Lüftmalerei, the characteristic art of outdoor frescoes that originated during the Counter-Reformation to proclaim the Catholic faith.

Return to the church and turn right into Obermarkt, the main street. This is also lined with some wonderfully frescoed structures. Walk along it to the edge of town, where it becomes Innsbrucker Straße. Just before the first bridge a path leads off to the right.

Follow the country trail a short distance to the *Leutaschklamm (5), a very narrow gorge filled with rushing white water. Actually in Austrian territory, the mountain ravine has a suspended gangway above the torrent, which takes you to a spectacular 82-foot waterfall. Newer sections extending three kilometers have been added since 2006, and are being marketed as the Geisterklamm (Spirit Gorge) — complete with some rather hokey displays of ghostly legends. If you have time for this, fine, but what you really want to see is the Original Waterfalls (Wasserfälle) Trail that begins at the Mittenwald entrance. For this there is a small admission charge. There is a tiny outdoor café at the entrance. Usually open mid-May through Oct., daily 9-5:30. €.

Return to Innsbrucker Straße and stroll down Mühlen Weg. Cross a bridge and walk along the Isar, a river on which goods were once floated downstream to Munich. You will soon come to the lower station of the Karwendelbahn (6), a large cable car that transports you in 10 minutes to the heights of the Karwendel Mountain.

At an altitude of 2,244 meters (7,362 feet), the upper station (7) (photo, left) of the cable car looks nearly straight down on Mittenwald and offers fabulous views across the Bavarian, Austrian, and Italian Alps. Follow the trail leading uphill through the snow and pass the Freistaat Bayern sign. You are now in Austria for the second time in one day, although there is no customs post. A circular route takes you all the way to the very *pinnacle (Gipfel) at 7, 825 feet. Be careful, however. The highest section of the trail is steep and can be difficult without proper boots when the snow has become icy. This treacherous section is bypassed by a lower, easier ttrail. When you tire of all the sunshine, clean air, and marvelous scenery you can visit the café and restaurant adjacent to the upper cable car station for a drink or a snack before returning to the valley and the town. T: (08823) 84-80. W: karwendelbahn.de. Open Dec.-Oct., daily 8:30-4:30 or 5:30. Roundtrip €€€.

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Return of a Classic II

THE RHINELAND

by Walter Marsden

A HASTINGS HOUSE CLASSICS BOOK

This timeless classic, first published in 1973, has been once again made available as an exact reproduction of the original volume, now a collector's treasure.

The Rhine is Western Europe's greatest highway. It is also a natural frontier, a source of legend, and its banks are covered with some of the world's finest vineyards. Neanderthal man was found in the Rhineland; the Romans colonized it, Charlemagne ruled it, the French conquered it. All have left their mark, but none more so than the medieval robber barons, whose grim fortresses dominate the river for much of its length. As befits its importance, the Rhine with its tributaries has sustained a string of great cities — Speyer, Heidelberg, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Cologne, Bonn — and countless smaller towns and villages.

The Rhine is above all romantic; it is Siegfried's river and the home of the Loreley, and the whole of the Rhineland is as riddled with Gothic fantasy as with Gothic legend. Walter Marsden works his way south, from Aachen down the Mosel valley, always returning to the Rhine itself, but leading off wherever there is a town, a castle, a village, monument, church, cathedral, mountain, valley or vineyard which adds something to an understanding of the rich variety of the river and all it has influenced. Detailed enough to serve as an on-the-spot guide, this book is sufficiently wide in scope to make good armchair travelling, equally useful as a reminder or as a foretaste of the Rhineland.

CHECK OUT the book by clicking on its title below, or on the buy button to purchase

ISBN-13: 978-0-8038-2070-8

ISBN-10: 0-8038-2070-4

240 pages, 5.5" x 8.25"

Illustrated

$18.95

Return of a Classic I

Where the Great German Wines Grow

A Guide to the Leading Vineyards

by HANS AMBROSI

A HASTINGS HOUSE CLASSICS BOOK

First published in 1976, this timeless classic has been once again made available as an exact reproduction of the original volume, now a collector's treasure.

If you plan to visit Germany's beautiful wine country in person or take an imaginary trip there, you will find this book a valuable guide to the individual estates and their specialties. Wine technology is carefully explained, but Dr. Ambrosi's descriptions will capturre your imagination with stories of the estates and their monastic, aristocratic proprietors, the vineyards with their idyllic settings, the estate buildings, the castles, the mansions, the old cellars and the fine wines themselves.

This book stands out among wine books with its clear systematic presentation of a vast quantity of detailed information. When you decide to visit, you will know what to see, what to taste, and how to get there. Whether or not you have ever been in a wine cellar, you will soon learn about your favorite wines, look up the estates where they are produced, and with pen-and-ink vignettes, maps, and reproductions of many labels, be able to imagine yourself visiting the picturesque estates, tasting the wines, and hearing the family histories of the great wine growers and vineyard owners.

CLICK BELOW on the book title for more information, and on the buy button to purchase:

ISBN-13: 978-0-8038-2071-5

ISBN-10: 0-8038-2071-2

240 pages, 5.25" x 8"

Illustrated

$18.95

Germany's Highest Mountain

THE ZUGSPITZE...Germany's Highest Mountain and an Easy Daytrip from Munich.

An advance look at next year's new edition of our popular guidebook Daytrips Germany, with all new maps and updated information. Here's another free sample chapter for you to download, print, and use. Enjoy.

One of classic daytrips in Bavaria is an excursion to the top of the Zugspitze. At nearly ten thousand feet, Germany's highest peak offers a fantastic panorama extending across four nations. At one time only mountain climbers could enjoy this spectacle, but today an ingenious network of cable cars and a rack railway make the ascent fast, easy, and safe.

There are several possible ways up the mountain. The route suggested here is the most common and could be done in reverse if desired. If you don't like cable cars, you can go both ways by rail instead.

Germany shares its peak with Austria, which has its own cable-car system as well as a café and restaurant at the top. This excursion can be combined in the same day with an abbreviated version of the Garmisch-Partenkirchen trip by getting off to a very early start, but only during the summer when the hours of sunlight are longer.

GETTING THERE:

Trains from Munich's main station (Hauptbahnhof) leave hourly for Garmisch-Partenkirchen, a ride of about 90 minutes. Click here for schedules. From the Garmisch station walk over to the adjacent Zugspitz Bahnhof and take one of the hourly trains operated by the Bayerische Zugspitzbahn. A reduced price is offered here if you show them your train ticket from Munich.

By Car, leave Munich on the A-95 (E-6) Autobahn and drive 88 km (55 miles) south to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, parking there at the Zugspitz Bahnhof. Take the rack railway as above. It is also possible to drive to the Eibsee and pick up the trip from there.

PRACTICALITIES:

The ascent of the Zugspitze may be made all year round, but clear weather is necessary to enjoy the sights. Should the skies cloud over enroute you might consider making the Garmisch-Partenkirchen or Oberammergau trip instead. Remember, however, that the weather atop the Zugspitze is often clear when the valley is socked in. Ask at the Zugspitze Bahnhof if in doubt. You should bring a sweater or jacket, even in summer. The Tourist Information Office in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, T: (08821) 180-700, is at Richard-Strauss-Platz in the center of Garmisch. For more specific information and conditions at the summit, contact the Bayerische Zugspitzbahn, T: (08821) 79-70.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Meals and drinks on the mountain are available at:

Sonn Alpin (at the Zugspitzplatt) A rustic self-service restaurant with a terrace and panoramic view. T: (08821) 92-12-90. €

Gipfelalm (at the summit of the Zugspitze) A central hut vaults over smaller huts, offering privacy with a terrific view — along with Bavarian dishes. €€

In addition, there is a restaurant on the Austrian side of the peak, several places around the Eibsee and, of course, excellent choices in Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the Garmisch-Partenkirchen train station (1) and walk over to the Zugspitze Bahnhof (2), a separate station for the rack railway going up the mountain. Purchase a roundtrip ticket (Rundreise), which includes the rack railway, summit cable car, and the Eibsee cable car. If you came to Garmisch by train you can get a discount by showing your ticket. Departures are hourly from 8:15 to 2:15, with some variations. The last return leaves at 4:30. Roundtrip fares: Adult €45, Youth (16-18) €31.50, Child (6-15) €26.50. There are special money-saving family plans.

The train first travels along a relatively level route, then begins the climb to the Eibsee (3), a lovely lake near the foot of the mountain, reached in about 40 minutes. Those with cars can drive this far and board the train here. This is also the lower station of the Eibsee cable car, going all the way to the very top, on which you will probably be returning.

Shortly after this the train plunges into a long tunnel, winding its way like a corkscrew through the inside of the Zugspitze, and reaches the Zugspitzplatt (4) about 75 minutes after leaving Garmisch-Partenkirchen. At 2,846 meters (9,340 feet) above sea level, this is Germany's highest skiing area, where the fun starts in November and lasts until May. Walk out on the terrace for a *view from the heights, perhaps stopping at the rustic Sonn Alpin restaurant for a meal, snack, or drink.

This is still not the top of the Zugspitze. To get there, take the Gletscherbahn glacier cable car, which takes only four minutes to reach the peak.

Finally at the *Zugspitzgipfel (the very top) (5), stroll out onto the sunny terrace and survey the world 2,962 meters (9,724 feet) below. It is possible to cross the border (6) to Austrian soil — or snow. Food, snack, and drinks are available on both sides. Don't miss the free Exhibition on the history of the Zugspitze and its various ascents, including the building of the rack railway in 1930. Until 2006 it was believed that the mountain was first conquered by one Josef Naus in 1820, but the German Mountaineering Association recently found a map from 1770 showing that locals had climbed it long before that.

The return journey begins on the German side of the peak. From here take the large Eibsee Cable Car (Seilbahn) for the thrilling ten-minute descent directly to the Eibsee (3). Alternatively, you could return by way of the glacier cable car to the Zugspitzplatt (4) and then ride the train back, although this way is much slower.

From the Eibse continue on by rack railway back to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, where you board the regular train to Munich.

Copyright © 2002 by Earl Steinbicker. Updated to 2006, with color map and photos added.

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Berchtesgaden

First published in 1984 and now in its sixth edition, Daytrips Germany has long been a favorite guidebook for independent travelers. A major revamp is scheduled for the 2007 travel season, with new maps and a new cover design. CLICK HERE for a free sample chapter on Berchtesgaden and the Königssee from that new edition. Enjoy!

Bremen, Germany

Bremen, Germany

Here is a complete chapter from our bestselling guidebook, Daytrips Germany by Earl Steinbicker. It takes you on a daytrip from Hamburg to one of Germany's most remarkable cities, a seaport with a true zest for life. Save it, print it out, and use it on your next trip to Europe. Enjoy!

Standing defiantly in Bremen's market place is a tall statue of the valiant knight Roland. With sword drawn, he stares at the medieval cathedral opposite, as he has done since 1404. His bearing summarizes the attitude of most Bremers. These are a people who do not like to be told what to do — not by the Church, not by the government, not by anyone. Still calling itself the Free Hanseatic City of Bremen, this ancient seaport has its own parliament and is, in fact, Germany's smallest self-governing state.

Bremen's history goes back at least 1,200 years. In 787, during the reign of Charlemagne, it was made the seat of a bishop. Already a major shipping center, the growing town joined the Hanseatic League in 1358. Along with Hamburg and Lübeck, it virtually controlled northern trade and grew very rich as a result. Further independence came in 1646 when Bremen became a Free Imperial City, and later a sovereign city-state.

Despite its size, Bremen is an eminently walkable city. Just about everything of interest lies in the compact area between the train station and the river, while the fascinating docks can be seen at closeup range on a boat tour.

GETTING THERE:

Trains, mostly of the IC class or slightly slower Metronom class, depart Hamburg's main station at least hourly for the under-one-hour run to Bremen. Many of these may also be boarded a few minutes earlier at Hamburg's Altona or Damtor stations. Click here for schedules.

By Car, Bremen is 119 km (74 miles) southwest of Hamburg via the A-7 and A-1 Autobahns. There are several parking lots behind the train station.

PRACTICALITIES:

The best time to visit Bremen is from April through October, when the harbor tour operates. Most of the museums are closed on Mondays. The local Tourist Information Office (Bremer Touristik-Zentrale), T: (01805) 101-030 (toll call) is at the train station. There is also a branch in the square by the Liebfrauenkirche. Those staying overnight might save money with the EntdeckerCARD, which covers local transportation plus entry to museums and attractions throughout northwest Germany. Ask about it at the tourist office. Bremen has a population of about 550,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

In a city famous for good food, some choice restaurants are:

Flett (Böttcherstr. 3, across from the Roselius House) Classic German dishes in an inviting setting. T: (0421) 320-995. €€€

Ratskeller (in the Rathaus) Over 600 German wines (but no beers!) are available in this centuries-old bastion of traditional North German cuisine. T: (0421) 321-676. €€ and €€€

Becks in'n Snoor (Im Schnoor 34, in the Schnoor District) A wide variety of dishes in this three-story brewery tavern. T: (0421) 323-130. €€ and €€€

Friesenhof (Hinter dem Schütting 12, a block northeast of the Roselius House) A brewery restaurant with hearty meat dishes in the Frisian tradition. T: (0421) 337-66-66. €€

Alte Gilde (Ansgaritorstr. 24, by the Gewerbehaus) Good-value lunches in the vaulted cellar of an historic house. T: (0421) 171-712. X: Sun. € and €€

Bratwurstglo'ck'l (Liebfrauenkirchhof, by the Rathaus) Grilled sausages and drinks at an open-air pavilion. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

While at the Main Train Station (Hauptbahnhof) (1), visit the tourist office to confirm times for the town hall and harbor tours. Continue straight ahead and cross the old city moat. Until the early 19th century, Bremen was surrounded on three sides by defensive bastions — since replaced by lovely gardens and waterways.

Stroll down Sögestrasse, a pedstrians-only shopping street, past a charming group of bronze pigs that children love to play on. At the end bear left to the 13th-century Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) (2). A delightful flower market is held each morning along its outer walls.

Just a few more steps and you are in one of Europe's most beautiful squares, the *Marktplatz (photo, above). To the left stands the elegant:

*RATHAUS (Town Hall) (3), T: (0421) 361-0. Tours Mon.-Sat. at 11, noon, 3, and 4; and on Sun. at 11 and noon. €. Tickets sold at either tourist office location. No tours when hall is in use.

The Town Hall dramatically proclaims the wealth of Old Bremen. Originally built in 1409, it was given a magnificent new façade in the Weser Renaissance style during the early 17th century. On its west side, near the church, you will find a statue (photo, left) of the Bremen Town Musicians — a donkey, dog, cat, and cock who figured in the famous fairytale by the Brothers Grimm.

Enter the Town Hall and take the 45-minute guided tour of its Upper Hall, the richest interior in this affluent city. The splendid spiral staircase of 1620, Renaissance decorations, and wonderful models of early sailing ships are its main attractions.

A huge *statue of the knight Roland, symbol of Bremen's independence, stands proudly in the market square. Since 1404 he has guarded its citizens against encroachment by the Church or anyone else who would attempt to rule them. Roland was obviously successful at this task, for his face wears a smile of self-satisfaction.

St.-Petri Dom (St. Peter's Cathedral) (4) towers over the square. Begun in 1042, it occupies the site of an earlier church built in 787 at the request of Charlemagne. Be sure to see its oldest parts, the crypts, and especially the Bleikeller (Lead Cellar), which contains nine curiously preserved corpses dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries. There is also a small museum of artifacts and a tower that may be climbed. The cathedral closes on Saturday at 2, and is closed on Sunday mornings.

The ugly modern structure next to the cathedral is Bremen's own parliament. To the right of it is the Schütting, a 16th-century merchants' guildhall in the Flemish style.

Now stroll down to the famous *Böttcherstrasse, a crowded narrow passage teeming with visual excitement, whose stylish entrance is pictured on the left. Once a tradesmen's alleyway, it was transformed during the 1920s into an idealistic art center by the wealthy coffee merchant Ludwig Roselius, who had invented decaffeinated coffee in 1907. A porcelein carillon in the tiny square to your left plays tunes each hour from noon to 6 p.m. (noon, 3, and 6 p.m. from January through April). Adjoining this, at number 6, is the:

ROSELIUS HOUSE (5), T: (0421) 336-50-77. Both sites open Tues.-Sun., 11-6. €.

This 16th-century mansion is filled with masterpieces of North German art and period furniture. Its connects internally with the adjacent Paula Becker-Modersohn House, a museum dedicated to the early Expressionist painter who worked in the Bremen area, along with pieces by the Expressionist designer Bernhard Hoetger.

Continuing along Böttcherstrasse, you will pass other buildings of the development, some of which house shops, restaurants, cafés, and even a gambling casino. The overall style is a strange blend of Gothic and Jugendstil (German Art Nouveau), an overpowering combination rarely encountered.

Stroll down to the Martini Dock (6), where you can take a fascinating 75-minute *cruise (Hafenrundfahrt) of Germany's second-largest harbor. Boats operate from April through October, departing daily at 11:45 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 3:15 p.m. From May through September there are also departures at 10:15 a.m. and 4:45 p.m. T: (0421) 338-989. €€.

When you return, take a look at the unusual 13th-century Martinikirche (St. Martin's Church), just a few steps to the northwest. It is noted for its organ of 1619, its modern stained-glass windows, and its tower carillon. Just steps from this is the Schlachte Embankment, a riverside promenade with various attractions and cafés.

Then follow the map to the *Schnoor District (7), which was home to Bremen's fishermen since the late Middle Ages. Little changed over the past three centuries, it has been restored and is now inhabited by craftsmen and artists. Wander down its main alleyway, Im Schnoor, and explore the labyrinth of narrow passageways and tiny squares that cut off to the sides. The area is filled, as you might expect, with cafés, restaurants, galleries, and boutiques.

While in the area, you might want to visit the:

KUNSTHALLE (Art Museum) (8), T: (0421) 329-080. Open Tues. 10-9, Wed.-Sun. 10-5. €.

The collections here are particularly rich in Old Masters, French Impressionists, and works by modern German painters, spanning the period from the 15th century to the present. Artists represented include Delacroix, Liebermann, Corinth, Modersohn-Becker, and Beckmann. There are also numerous graphics by Dürer, Goya, Picasso, and many others.

Now return to the Marktplatz and head down Langenstrasse. Note the magnificent Stadtwaage (9), a weights-and-measures office erected in 1587. A right on Grosse Waagestrasse leads to Obernstrasse, a pedestrians-only shopping street. Turn left and then make a right on Ansgaritorstrasse, passing the 17th-century Gewerbehaus (10), once a retail merchants' guildhall. Beyond the busy thoroughfare, Am Wall, lie the peaceful gardens that replaced the former fortifications. Stroll along the pathway to the last Windmill (11) in the Old Town. From here it is only a short walk to the:

ÜBERSEEMUSEUM (Overseas Museum) (12), T: (0421) 1603-8101. Open Tues.-Fri. 9-6, Sat.-Sun. 10-6. €.

This museum features interesting displays of exotic cultures and world trade. Among the exhibits are re-creations of a Japanese garden, South Sea huts, temples, native fishing boats, and a Chinese house. The train station is right next to this.

ADDITIONAL SIGHTS:

Universum Science Center, a spectacular hands-on museum of scientific discovery focusing on Earth, Mankind, and Space. Wiener Strasse 2, T: (0421) 334-60. Get there by tram line 6 or bus 305 to Universtät NW1. Open Mon.-Fri. 9-6, Sat., Sun., holidays 10-7. €€€.

Bremen, Centre of Aerospace Technology is the name of a guided tour through Bremen's thriving aerospace industry. Lasting two hours, it should be booked in advance from the tourist office at the train station or Liebfrauenkirche square. T: (01805) 101-030 (toll call). Departs from the departure lounge of the Bremen Airport, reached by tram 6. Tours on Fri. at 5; Sat. at 11, 1, and 3; Sun. at 11:30. In Jan.-Feb. tours on Sat. only. Proper ID (passport) needed.

Copyright © 2002 Earl Steinbicker. Updated to Aug. 2006, with new photos and map.

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Trier, Germany

Here's a complete chapter from Earl Steinbicker's guidebook Daytrips Germany, as updated for next year's edition.

*Trier

The greatest collection of Roman remains to be found anywhere north of the Alps is in Trier, which bills itself as Germany's oldest city. According to an ancient legend, this was founded around 2000 BC by Trebeta, son of Semiramis, the queen of Assyria. Historians say otherwise, although archaeological digs do reveal some trace of human habitation dating from that era. What is actually documented is that the city, then called Augusta Treverorum, was established in 16 BC by the Roman emperor Augustus near the site of an earlier Celtic settlement.

Whatever its true age, Trier is certainly a fascinating place. Several of its Roman structures remain in use today, along with well-preserved buildings from just about every era since. For centuries this city was among the most important in Europe; at one time second only to Rome. Those days have long since ended, and Trier is a relatively minor provincial place. Although it is quite some distance from Frankfurt, and even more from Düsseldorf or Cologne, its attractions are so compelling that a journey is more than worthwhile. For those staying in Luxembourg, it is only a short hop.

GETTING THERE:

Trains of the IC class depart Frankfurt's main station at least hourly for Koblenz, where you change for Trier. For those coming from Düsseldorf or Cologne, there is also direct service, including a convenient morning departure on the speedy ICE, as well as other direct trains and a few requiring a change at Koblenz. In any case, you will arrive in Trier before noon. Luxembourg City is practically next door, with hourly departures for the 30-minute ride.

By Car, leave Frankfurt on the A-66 Autobahn, then take the A-3 north past Limburg and head southwest on the A-48 to Trier. The total distance is 189 km (118 miles). From Düsseldorf it is 275 km (171 miles), from Cologne 232 km (144 miles) and from Luxembourg City a mere 47 km (29 miles).

PRACTICALITIES:

Trier can be visited in any season, but note that a few attractions are closed on Mondays from November through March. The local Tourist Information Office, T: (0651) 978-080, is next to the Porta Nigra. Trier has a population of about 100,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Trier is heavily touristed, so it has plenty of restaurants and cafés. Some choices are:

Palais Kesselstatt (liebfrauenstr. 10, across from the Liebfrauenkirche) An elegant wine rstaurant in a Baroque setting, with light cuisine and garden dining available. T: (0651) 402-04. X: Mon., mid-Jan. to mid-Feb. €€€

Brunnenhof (in the Simeonstift next to the Porta Nigra) Typical German food in an 11th-century cloister. Closed for repairs until early 2007. T: (0651) 700-295. €€

Zum Domstein (Hauptmarkt 5) popular for its local specialties, with a superb selection of wines. T: (0651) 744-90. €€

Weinstube Palais Kesselstatt (Liebfrauenstr. 10, across from the Liebfrauenkirche) Under the same management as the Palais Kesselstatt (above), this less-expensive bistro offers superb local cuisine, light meals, and very good wines. T: (0651) 411-78. X: Jan. €€

Museum Café (in the Rhineland Museum) A pleasant, modern place for light meals. Opens into the gardens. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) (1) and walk down Bahnhofstrasse and Theodor-Heuss-Allee to the magnificent:

*PORTA NIGRA (2), T: (0651) 442-62. Open April-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct. & March, daily 9-5; Nov.-Feb., daily 9-4. €. Joint ticket covering all Roman sites €€.

This (photo, above) is the very symbol of Trier and one of the finest Roman relics anywhere. Built towards the end of the 2nd century AD as a massive fortified gate, it was converted into a church about 1040 and restored to its original appearance by Napoleon after 1804, when Trier was a part of France. No mortar was used in its construction; instead, the stone blocks are joined by iron clamps. The name, meaning black gate, derives from its present color — the result of centuries of pollution. Stroll through the inner courtyard, where unsuspecting enemies could be trapped from all sides.

Adjoining this is the Simeonstift, a former priests' residence from the 11th century that now houses the tourist office, a restaurant, and the Städtisches Museum. The latter is devoted primarily to the history of Trier from prehistoric to modern times. T: (0651) 718-1459. Currently under restoration.

Walk down Simeonstrasse past the very unusual Dreikönigenhaus at number 19, a nobleman's town residence dating from 1230. Note the strange location of its original entrance — at an upper level where it could only be reached by a retractable ladder, a safety feature in those days of unrest.

Continue on to the *Hauptmarkt (3). The stone cross in its center was erected in 958 as a symbol of the city's right to hold a market. Near this stands a lovely 16th-century fountain, while the entire busy scene is dominated by the Gothic Church of St. Gangolf. One particularly outstanding building is the Steipe, a colorful 15th-century banqueting hall that now houses a wonderful toy museum, which you can visit later. It was rebuilt after total destruction in World War II.

Now turn down Sternstrasse to the:

*CATHEDRAL (Dom) (4), T: (0651) 979-0790. Open April-Oct., daily 6:30-6; Nov.-March, daily 6:30-5:30. Closed to visitors during services.

This powerful fortress-like structure dates in part from Roman times. Over the centuries it was enlarged and rebuilt several times, the most visible change having occurred during the 12th century. Its interior is an engaging mixture of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles. Don't miss the Treasury (Domschatzmuseum) to the right of the high altar. Among its treasures are the 10th-century Altar of St. Andrew, one of the great masterpieces of the Ottonian period. The precious Holy Robe, supposedly worn by Christ at His trial, is only shown on very rare occasions. Treasury open Mon.-Sat. 10-5, and on Sun. and holidays 2-5, with shorter hours in winter. €.

Stroll through the cloisters, then visit the adjacent Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) (5). The earliest Gothic church in Germany, it was built in the form of a Greek cross during the 13th century, and is noted for its elegant interior. Open April-Oct., daily 7:30-6; Nov.-March, daily 7:30-5:30.

Closeby, on Windstrasse, is the:

BISCHÖFLICHES MUSEUM (6), T: (0651) 710-52-55. Open Mon.-Sat. 9-5, Sun. and holidays 1-5, with shorter hours and closed on Mon. in winter. €.

On display here are some fascinating 4th-century ceiling paintings from the palace of the Roman emperor Constantine, discovered under the cathedral in 1945. There are also several medieval statues and other pieces of ancient religious art.

The enormous Palastaula (Basilika) (7), not far away, is the only surviving part of Constantine's great imperial palace. Once the throne room of the emperor, this colossal structure from about AD 310 now sees service as a Protestant church. Take a look inside, then walk around to the adjoining Palace of the Electors, an 18th-century rococo building presently used for government offices.

Paths through the palace gardens lead to the:

RHEINISCHES LANDESMUSEUM (Rhineland Museum) (8), T: (0651) 977-40. Open Mon.-Fri. 9:30-5, Sat. and Sun. 10:30-5. Closed Mon. from Nov.-April. €.

The Rhineland Museum features what is probably the best collection of Roman antiquities in Germany. Allow plenty of time to take it all in, from gold coins to mosaics to huge monuments. The displays also feature archaeological finds dating from prehistory as well as a rich selection of medieval art. There is an attractive museum café facing the gardens, a fine place for a light lunch.

From here you might want to make a short side trip to the:

AMPHITHEATER (9), T: (0651) 754-24. Open daily 9-6, closing earlier in winter. €. Combination ticket for all Roman sites, €€.

Over 20,000 spectators once jammed the terraces of the oldest Roman structure in Trier to watch the gladiators fight, a form of spectacle that continued into the Christian era. Be sure to climb down into the cellars under the arena, and to examine the side chambers that served as cages. Much of the stone work was exploited as a quarry during the Middle Ages, but enough remains to imagine yourself back in the 1st century AD, when it was built.

A stroll down Olewiger Strasse brings you to the:

*Kaiserthermen (Imperial Baths) (10), T: (0651) 730-10. Open daily 9-6, closing earlier in winter. €. Combo ticket €€.

Not much of this extraordinary 4th-century structure (photo, above) remains above ground, but the maze of passageways below is fantastic and well worth exploring. The baths were established by the emperor Constantine and were among the largest in the entire Roman Empire. Strangely enough, they were never completed nor used for their intended purpose.

If you're still bursting with energy you might want to walk down to the Mosel River to see a few more sights; otherwise you can save some steps by following the map back into town via Neustrasse and Brückenstrasse.

The long route takes you first to the 2nd-century Barbarathermen (11) on Südallee. These Roman baths were used for several centuries and were once the largest in the world. What little remains of their past glory is in derelict condition and requires a vivid imagination to visualize, although the effect of really ruined ruins can be quite romantic. Take a look from the street. Presently closed for future restoration.

The Römerbrücke (Roman Bridge) (12) is just a few steps away. Its stone piers were built in the 2nd century AD and still carry the weight of heavy traffic. The upper parts, originally of wood, were replaced with masonry arches during the 14th century, and again in the 18th.

Walk down steps to a path along the Mosel River and follow it past the Zoll Kran (Customs Crane), dating from 1774, and the Alter Kran (Old Crane) (13), which goes all the way back to 1413. Both are in excellent condition, and the latter's treadmill can be seen by peeking in the window. The busy adjacent street, Krahnenufer, is difficult to cross here, so walk north to the traffic light and return to Krahnenstrasse, which you follow into town.

Of all the people born in Trier, the one who had the greatest impact on society was undoubtedly Karl Marx, who lived from 1818 until 1883. His birthplace at Brückenstrasse 10 (photo, right) is open as the:

KARL MARX HAUS (14), T: (0651) 970-680. Open April-Oct., daily 10-6; Nov.-March, Tues.-Sun. 10-1 and 2-5, Mon. 2-5. €.

Both the life of communism's prophet and the worldwide spread of socialism is traced in minute detail in this historic site. Perhaps you can find a clue, in the memorabilia or in the house itself, as to why Marx was so tragically mistaken in his understanding of how the world works. It's worth a try.

End your tour on a brighter note by returning via the 11th-century Frankenturm at Dietrichstrasse 5 — one of the oldest surviving dwellings in Germany — to the Hauptmarkt and paying a visit to the joyful:

SPIEZEUGMUSEUM (Toy Museum) (15), Hauptmarkt 14, T: (0651) 758-50. Open April-Oct., daily 11-6; Nov.-March, Tues.-Sun. 11-5. €.

Although some of the toys are antiques, the majority are of recent enough vintage to evoke childhood memories. Hidden away is a display of toys from the Third Reich, including a miniature tin Hitler riding in an open Mercedes! There is, of course, an entire world of miniature railways, lots of dolls, model cars, tin figures, and other delights.

Copyright © 2002 Earl Steinbicker

Updated in 2006 for 2007 edition.

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Berchtesgaden

First published in 1984 and now in its sixth edition, Daytrips Germany has long been a favorite guidebook for independent travelers. A major revamp is scheduled for the 2007 travel season, with new maps and a new cover design. Here is a free sample chapter on Berchtesgaden and the Königssee from that new edition. Enjoy!

Click on underlined entries for web links.

Berchtesgaden is one of the most popular resorts in Germany, and with good reason. Few places in the country offer such spectacular mountain scenery, and none have anything that equals the sublime beauty of its lake, the Königssee. Then there is the town itself, whose old castle and fascinating salt mines are certainly worth more than a detour. But, ironically, to many people the area is known only for its association with Adolf Hitler and his gang, who held court there during the short span of the Third Reich. That dreadful era is long since over, and Berchtesgaden has survived with all of its natural splendors intact.

The only problem with a daytrip to Berchtesgaden is that it requires some hard choices — you can't possibly see everything in the time available. The best solution, of course, is to stay overnight or longer, remembering that the town makes an excellent base for excursions to Bad Reichenhall, the Chiemsee, or even Salzburg in Austria.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart Munich's main station almost hourly for the nearly three-hour trip to Berchtesgaden. A change at Freilassing is probably necessary, except that in some cases you change in Salzburg to a bus. Click here for online schedules, remembering to click on English, and to enter Muenchen for Munich.

Buses depart Salzburg's main station for the 45-minute ride to Berchtesgaden. It is also possible, but slower, to go by train, changing at Freilassing.

By Car, Berchtesgaden is 155 km (96 miles) southeast of Munich via the A-8 Autobahn to the Bad Reichenhall exit, then the B-20 road. From Salzburg, it's only 23 km (14 miles) to the southwest on routes 150, 160, and the B-305 in Germany.

PRACTICALITIES:

The period between mid-May and mid-October is the best time to visit Berchtesgaden. Good weather will make the trip much more enjoyable, but you should still bring along a sweater or jacket if you visit the salt mines or the Eagle's Nest.

The local Tourist Information Office, T: (08652) 967-150, is just across the bridge from the train station. Berchtesgaden has a permanent population of about 8,200.

FOOD AND DRINK:

IN TOWN:

Restaurant im Kurhaus (Maximilianstr. 9, by the Kurgarten) Good-value meals, especially the daily specials. T: (08652) 948-755. €€

Post (Maximilianstr. 2, near the Kurgarten) A small hotel with a beer garden and a good restaurant. T: (08652) 50-67. €€

Goldener Bär (Weihnachtsschützenstr. 4, just west of the Kurgarten) Simple, traditional Bavarian dishes. T: (08652) 25-90. €

THE KÖNIGSSEE area has several tourist restaurants between the bus stop, the lake, and the Malerwinkel.

ON THE OBERSALZBERG:

Kehlsteinhaus (in the Eagle's Nest) Food and drink in a mountain aerie overlooking the world. T: (08652) 29-69. €€

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the two maps.

CLICK ON THE MAP FOR A LARGER VIEW.

The three do-it-yourself tours described here all begin at the centrally-located Train Station (Bahnhof) (1). You will only have time to do two of these in one single day.

THE TOWN:

Leave the Train Station (1) and follow the map uphill to the Kurgarten (2), a delightful little park with lovely views. Continue on through a colorful pedestrians-only area, passing the old market place, and walk under a passageway into the Schlossplatz (3). This picturesque square is lined on its western side with 16th-century arches.

The Stiftskirche (Abbey Church), on the eastern side, dates from 1122 and is well worth a visit for its fine works of art. Directly adjacent to it is the Schloss (Castle), originally built as an Augustinian monastery. In 1803 this was secularized and afterwards used as a summer residence for Bavaria's ruling family, the Wittelsbachs. One of their descendants, Crown Prince Rupprecht, who had a tenuous (very tenuous) claim to the British throne through his maternal Stuart ancestors, lived here until his death in 1955. Its marvelous interiors are open to the public, and its sumptuous collection of art and furnishings are shown on guided tours lasting about an hour. T: (08652) 947-980. Open mid-May to mid-Oct., Sun.-Fri. 10-1 and 2-5; mid-Oct. to mid-May, Sun.-Fri. 11-2. Closed holidays in the off-season. €€.

A highlight of any trip to Berchtesgaden is a tour through the salt mines, which can be reached on foot via Bräuhausstrasse and Bergwerkstrasse:

*SALZBERGWERK (Salt Mines) (4), T: (08652) 649-71. Open mid-May to mid-Oct., daily 9-5; rest of year, daily except Sun. and holidays, 12:30-3:30. Tours €€€.

In operation since 1517, the mines were the original source of wealth for the priory, and are still in active use today. Visitors are loaned traditional miners' clothes for protection against the cold and damp environment; then loaded aboard a motorized cart for the dark, eerie, half-mile-long journey into the bowels of the earth. Different parts of the subterranean excavations are reached via exciting downhill slides and a boat ride across an underground lake. About 60 minutes later you willreturn to the outer world on another little tram. From here it is a little over a mile back to the station.

*KÖNIGSSEE:

Buses to the Königssee leave frequently from the front of the Train Station (1). Those with cars will, of course, ride the two-and-a-half-mile distance, while the more ambitious can walk along a footpath following the stream.

Many people consider the *Königssee (5) to be the most enchanting lake in Germany, if not in all of Europe. It can be explored on one of the silent electric boats or by walking out to the Malerwinkel. Ideally, you should do both. From the bus stop or parking lot it is only a short stroll to the village, which is rather touristy but well hidden from the main part of the lake.

A path from here leads to the left and follows the lake's contours to the *Malerwinkel (Painters' Corner) (6), a tranquil spot of astonishing beauty. About one-half mile from the village, it is the end of the trail — beyond which the mountains plunge vertically into the dark and mysterious waters.

Boats leave frequently from the village for the two-hour round-trip ride to St. Bartholomä and beyond. Those making the longer trip should get off at the end and take a ten-minute walk to the Obersee, once a part of the Königssee that was cut off by an avalanche eight centuries ago. The Chapel of St. Bartholomä (7) (photo, above), at the foot of the Watzmann, Germany's second-highest peak, is a scene right out of a fairy tale. Bayerische Seen Schifffahrt, T: (08652) 963-618. Operates year-round except when the lake is frozen. Roundtrips €€€.

When you've had your fill of natural splendor, return to the village and take the bus back to the Berchtesgaden station.

EAGLE'S NEST:

A visit to Hitler's alpine aerie begins by taking a bus to Obersalzberg-Hintereck, or by driving there — a distance of two and a half steep miles. Buses (marked Kehlstein) leave at about half-hour intervals until late afternoon from the front of the post office next to the train station (1), or you might consider a guided tour in English departing from the tourist office — ask them about current schedules. There is also a cable car from the Bergwerkstrasse in Berchtesgaden, but this involves a walk of about a mile and a half from its upper station to Obersalzberg-Hintereck.

Adolf Hitler lived on the Obersalzberg Plateau (8) on and off from 1923 until 1933, when he began construction there on his permanent home, the Berghof. Other Nazi leaders followed suit, and by World War II the area was a highly developed complex of party and military buildings linked by underground tunnels. For obvious reasons, much of this was demolished after the war. While there, you might consider gaining a better understanding of what went on here by visiting the:

OBERSALZBERG DOCUMENTATION CENTER (8), T: (08652) 947-966. Open April-Oct., Tues.-Sun. 9-5; Nov.-March, Tues.-Sun. 10-4. Closed Mon. and major holidays. €.

The dramatic story of Hitler and his Nazis in the Berchtesgaden area is documented with artifacts, photos, and explanatory displays in this new (and some would say brave) exhibition operated by the Bavarian State Government. It even lets you see some of the underground tunnels that linked elements of the regime.

One famous structure of that era that does remain is Hitler's hideaway, the Kehlsteinhaus, often called the Eagle's Nest (9). Located on a rocky crag high above the compound, it can only be reached by a special bus that departs frequently from the Obersalzberg-Hintereck parking lot. Other vehicles are not allowed on the steep and dangerous road. Upon arrival, you should make return reservations, then enter a tunnel and take the small brass elevator up through the rocks to the Eagle's Nest.

Seldom used by the Führer, this retreat was allowed to survive and is now a restaurant and café. Stroll out to the crest beyond for a fabulous view of the Alps. The Eagle's Nest can be visited daily between mid-May and mid-Oct., but is closed the rest of the year because of weather. Fares: €€€, buses run from 8-4.

Copyright © 2002 Earl Steinbicker.

Daytrips Germany is available from Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble, Hastings House, or Booksurge. Its pages may be browsed online at Google Books.

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Hallstatt

HALLSTATT, AUSTRIA...a daytrip from Salzburg

Hastings House author Earl Steinbicker is hard at work on his latest guidebook, DAYTRIPS AUSTRIA. CLICK HERE for an advance look at a completed chapter from this work in progress.

APARTMENT IN PARIS

Renting, Roaming, Wining and Dining

Erasmus H. Kloman

Every year, two million Americans visit Paris. Apartment in Paris is a unique and entertaining guide to long and short term rental accommodations in Paris based on the author and his wife's experiences of over eight years renting apartments in Paris, living as Parisians rather than ordinary tourists. Includes eight appendices, 16 recipes and six maps.

Hastings House

ISBN: 0-8038-9420-1

Trade paperback, $14.95